Blogposting
- Mr. Edgyman
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Blogposting
So, I've been having trouble creating a Telegram channel like I said I'd do on that other topic because I've been unable to create a new account in a paranoid schizophrenic safe way, so until I'm able to get that channel up I hope It's ok for me to blogpost about stealth here.
Anyway, let's begin.
This year, I have decided that I wanted to get good at basic stealth skills, I have divided the skills into groups in a way I think makes sense, the groupings are bellow:
Stealth Walking:
Walk forwards, backwards and to the sides (two variants for side walking).
Crouched Stealth Walking:
Walk forwards, backwards and to the sides (two variants for side walking). Change between crouched and standing while standing still and while walking.
Stealth Running:
Run forwards, backwards and to the sides if possible.
Crouched Stealth Running:
Run forwards, backwards and to the sides if possible. Change between crouched and standing while running.
Wall movement:
Flatten on wall (all angles of approach), move while flattened, change direction while flattened. Practice these skills while moving if possible.
Crouched Wall movement:
Flatten on wall (all angles of approach), move while flattened, change direction while flattened, change between crouched and standing while flattened. Practice these skills while moving if possible.
Miscellaneous movements:
Pass through window, pass through window and crouch right afterwards, fall and land quietly, walk over and surpass obstacles.
Lock picking:
Lock pick with the padlock in different positions, lock pick with the padlock in different positions while crouched.
Basic Melee Capabilities:
Choke takedown, blunt takedown, knife takedown, all while standing and crouched. Moving neutralized enemy while standing, crouched, from the ground or right after takedown.
Basic Shooting Capabilities:
Precision shooting, target acquisition, target transition, reloading, shooting to the sides, all while standing still, do it again while crouched if possible.
Basic Shooting While Moving Capabilities:
Precision shooting, target acquisition, target transition, reloading, shooting to the sides, all while moving forwards and backwards, do it again while crouched if possible.
I'm thinking of dedicating a month to each group, the disadvantage when compared to cycling through then in a week or day basis is that there is a chance of forgetting things from the first groups by the time I'm at the last ones, the advantage however is that I have way more time to comprehend, have ideas and try to implement then.
Once I'm done with all groups it will be time for some refining, I'll run drills and test individual skills, preferably while dressed in my equipment setups, annotate what equipment has problems and what skills are lacking and dedicate another week to that group, once everything is at a level I'd consider good I'll do a week for all groups under night vision, hopefully by that time I'll have a better NVG setup than the sad thing I have right now.
Some extra notes:
I'm still not sure in what order I should do the groups, ideally I'd do them in the order they were presented as I think they would build up on each other nicely, but I'm inclined towards leaving all the crouching related stuff for last because crouching is very demanding on the legs and cardio so leaving it for last would maybe buy some time for the gym to get me in better shape.
Once it comes to the shooting training, I'll be unable to train recoil management because I'll be using an electric airsoft pistol, but still better than nothing.
I also plan on playing airsoft a few days of the month because It's a safe way of testing these skills against real opponents, also seems to be very fun!
End of notes.
I'm naming this training program the "Garret 2023 Program" as it's more or less in line with his moveset, once I'm done with this basic stuff I'll name the intermediate program after some other character.
So yeah, that's it, if not replying to replies the next blogpost should be about what I learned in this month of stealth walking.
Anyway, let's begin.
This year, I have decided that I wanted to get good at basic stealth skills, I have divided the skills into groups in a way I think makes sense, the groupings are bellow:
Stealth Walking:
Walk forwards, backwards and to the sides (two variants for side walking).
Crouched Stealth Walking:
Walk forwards, backwards and to the sides (two variants for side walking). Change between crouched and standing while standing still and while walking.
Stealth Running:
Run forwards, backwards and to the sides if possible.
Crouched Stealth Running:
Run forwards, backwards and to the sides if possible. Change between crouched and standing while running.
Wall movement:
Flatten on wall (all angles of approach), move while flattened, change direction while flattened. Practice these skills while moving if possible.
Crouched Wall movement:
Flatten on wall (all angles of approach), move while flattened, change direction while flattened, change between crouched and standing while flattened. Practice these skills while moving if possible.
Miscellaneous movements:
Pass through window, pass through window and crouch right afterwards, fall and land quietly, walk over and surpass obstacles.
Lock picking:
Lock pick with the padlock in different positions, lock pick with the padlock in different positions while crouched.
Basic Melee Capabilities:
Choke takedown, blunt takedown, knife takedown, all while standing and crouched. Moving neutralized enemy while standing, crouched, from the ground or right after takedown.
Basic Shooting Capabilities:
Precision shooting, target acquisition, target transition, reloading, shooting to the sides, all while standing still, do it again while crouched if possible.
Basic Shooting While Moving Capabilities:
Precision shooting, target acquisition, target transition, reloading, shooting to the sides, all while moving forwards and backwards, do it again while crouched if possible.
I'm thinking of dedicating a month to each group, the disadvantage when compared to cycling through then in a week or day basis is that there is a chance of forgetting things from the first groups by the time I'm at the last ones, the advantage however is that I have way more time to comprehend, have ideas and try to implement then.
Once I'm done with all groups it will be time for some refining, I'll run drills and test individual skills, preferably while dressed in my equipment setups, annotate what equipment has problems and what skills are lacking and dedicate another week to that group, once everything is at a level I'd consider good I'll do a week for all groups under night vision, hopefully by that time I'll have a better NVG setup than the sad thing I have right now.
Some extra notes:
I'm still not sure in what order I should do the groups, ideally I'd do them in the order they were presented as I think they would build up on each other nicely, but I'm inclined towards leaving all the crouching related stuff for last because crouching is very demanding on the legs and cardio so leaving it for last would maybe buy some time for the gym to get me in better shape.
Once it comes to the shooting training, I'll be unable to train recoil management because I'll be using an electric airsoft pistol, but still better than nothing.
I also plan on playing airsoft a few days of the month because It's a safe way of testing these skills against real opponents, also seems to be very fun!
End of notes.
I'm naming this training program the "Garret 2023 Program" as it's more or less in line with his moveset, once I'm done with this basic stuff I'll name the intermediate program after some other character.
So yeah, that's it, if not replying to replies the next blogpost should be about what I learned in this month of stealth walking.
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Re: Blogposting
Sounds strange to me.
Firstly I don't think that training a single thing for a whole month is a great idea. Skills like lock picking need to practiced on everyday basis because they rely on your muscle memory solely and on the other side, "stealth running", whatever this is, is not worth training that much (No, I don't think you shouldn't train running at all but that should be endurance or speed running like all athletes do. Actually your physical condition is probably the most important part of what you can train for NO because we don't use too much tools that require a great level of skill).
Secondly, I don't see why would you create a Telegram channel for your blog. Posting small pieces of content every day on large social networks is not really the way we do it here. If you are willing to do something that Stealth Technique and Shadow Work did, why don't you follow their methods of doing this? I'm not saying you should post these training videos on YouTube (that might also work just fine) but I don't suggest using Telegram. At the very least, as I know, it requires you to add your phone number so it really fucks up all the PERSEC.
Firstly I don't think that training a single thing for a whole month is a great idea. Skills like lock picking need to practiced on everyday basis because they rely on your muscle memory solely and on the other side, "stealth running", whatever this is, is not worth training that much (No, I don't think you shouldn't train running at all but that should be endurance or speed running like all athletes do. Actually your physical condition is probably the most important part of what you can train for NO because we don't use too much tools that require a great level of skill).
Secondly, I don't see why would you create a Telegram channel for your blog. Posting small pieces of content every day on large social networks is not really the way we do it here. If you are willing to do something that Stealth Technique and Shadow Work did, why don't you follow their methods of doing this? I'm not saying you should post these training videos on YouTube (that might also work just fine) but I don't suggest using Telegram. At the very least, as I know, it requires you to add your phone number so it really fucks up all the PERSEC.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
Yeah, I guess I am pretty much training to be a video game character, but no, I am not planning on becoming a professional thief, that probably would make me feel bad, I'm just training this because I haven't really got anything better to do while I get in better shape for the job that I want, but I guess if there was a job where stealth was the main thing and it didn't make me feel bad I would probably be interested.Shadow Scout wrote: ↑Wed Mar 22, 2023 5:26 amAre you training to be a video game character? Are you going to become a professional thief? What is the goal?
So yeah, it's basically a hobby.
Well yes, I know training certain things for a whole month has those downsides but I think it's really good once it comes to having time to experiment with and understand individual techniques, though once it comes to lockpicking you have convinced me and I will make it a daily thing instead of the monthly system. As for stealth running, a stealth "run" has the same speed as a normal walk but is less loud, while a normal run would be really fast but you are also stomping the ground therefore making a whole lot of noise, the point is being able to move faster when making zero or almost zero noise isn't a necessity, a more efficient trade between stealth and speed. I am also running normally to build up better cardio.Raven wrote: ↑Wed Mar 22, 2023 4:52 pmSounds strange to me.
Firstly I don't think that training a single thing for a whole month is a great idea. Skills like lock picking need to practiced on everyday basis because they rely on your muscle memory solely and on the other side, "stealth running", whatever this is, is not worth training that much (No, I don't think you shouldn't train running at all but that should be endurance or speed running like all athletes do. Actually your physical condition is probably the most important part of what you can train for NO because we don't use too much tools that require a great level of skill).
Secondly, I don't see why would you create a Telegram channel for your blog. Posting small pieces of content every day on large social networks is not really the way we do it here. If you are willing to do something that Stealth Technique and Shadow Work did, why don't you follow their methods of doing this? I'm not saying you should post these training videos on YouTube (that might also work just fine) but I don't suggest using Telegram. At the very least, as I know, it requires you to add your phone number so it really fucks up all the PERSEC.
On Telegram, I was going to create the new account using a fake phone number but the app that allowed me to do that stopped working for some reason, all was also going to be under Tor, but alas, it seems fate really wants me to make everything text based. The preference for Telegram comes from the fact I'd like to have the freedom to put any soundtrack I want on a video and it seems that platform doesn't care much about copyright.
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Re: Blogposting
Just a couple observations
There isn't really a tradeoff between speed and stealth, you need to decide when to operate stealthily and when to go dynamic. Speed can be your security or stealth can be your security. If you try to do both you will end up doing neither one very well. If you are creeping to the point where the sound of a smartly conducted jog/double time will give you away, then you need to be moving stealthily possibly doing a high or low crawl. And when speed is your security, you need to double time it without regard to making noise.
The goal of a mission is to complete the objective and RTB unharmed. Whether you accomplish it stealthily or through brute force and speed will be dictated by the mission itself, your operational tempo and whatever capabilities youve built up.
Sometimes a mission will call for all or more. The principle of stealth is to conduct movement and maneuver in as much of a low signature as possible. Your tools will be things like lockpicks, nightvision, suppressed firearms with heavy ball ammo, recon aircraft, your strategy will be slow, deliberate movements. Speed should not be on your mind while moving stealthily. If speed is required, then your tools will be sledgehammers, linear shaped charges, long guns, and your strategy will be rapid, decisive movement. You will make your way from checkpoint to checkpoint using the most direct route available while utilizing speed, surprise and violence of action to rapidly overwhelm, overcome and dominate any opposition. Always maintain a fluid and agile fighting position, be ready to switch gears on a split second's notice and then back again without hesitation.
I wouldnt suggest taking any device that emits any sort of signal whatsoever. These can be easily detected and its only slightly more difficult to foxhunt your position. Even if it can't be traced to your identity, its mere presence could give you away. Much like the MDT our local law enforcement agency uses, those broadcast a unique signal that is easy to identity using a receiver on a single drone. Sure, I cant pinpoint its position with one drone but who cares? I know they are within my AO thats all I need to know.
Listening to police P25 chatter is one thing but they dont announce every position they are in, only when needed. I would never use anything that transmits live, recording and then reviewing after the fact to make sure there are no leaks thats bad enough. Live feeds give you no way to censor anything and make sure you arent breaking opsec more than recording or documenting your action already is
There isn't really a tradeoff between speed and stealth, you need to decide when to operate stealthily and when to go dynamic. Speed can be your security or stealth can be your security. If you try to do both you will end up doing neither one very well. If you are creeping to the point where the sound of a smartly conducted jog/double time will give you away, then you need to be moving stealthily possibly doing a high or low crawl. And when speed is your security, you need to double time it without regard to making noise.
The goal of a mission is to complete the objective and RTB unharmed. Whether you accomplish it stealthily or through brute force and speed will be dictated by the mission itself, your operational tempo and whatever capabilities youve built up.
Sometimes a mission will call for all or more. The principle of stealth is to conduct movement and maneuver in as much of a low signature as possible. Your tools will be things like lockpicks, nightvision, suppressed firearms with heavy ball ammo, recon aircraft, your strategy will be slow, deliberate movements. Speed should not be on your mind while moving stealthily. If speed is required, then your tools will be sledgehammers, linear shaped charges, long guns, and your strategy will be rapid, decisive movement. You will make your way from checkpoint to checkpoint using the most direct route available while utilizing speed, surprise and violence of action to rapidly overwhelm, overcome and dominate any opposition. Always maintain a fluid and agile fighting position, be ready to switch gears on a split second's notice and then back again without hesitation.
I wouldnt suggest taking any device that emits any sort of signal whatsoever. These can be easily detected and its only slightly more difficult to foxhunt your position. Even if it can't be traced to your identity, its mere presence could give you away. Much like the MDT our local law enforcement agency uses, those broadcast a unique signal that is easy to identity using a receiver on a single drone. Sure, I cant pinpoint its position with one drone but who cares? I know they are within my AO thats all I need to know.
Listening to police P25 chatter is one thing but they dont announce every position they are in, only when needed. I would never use anything that transmits live, recording and then reviewing after the fact to make sure there are no leaks thats bad enough. Live feeds give you no way to censor anything and make sure you arent breaking opsec more than recording or documenting your action already is
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Re: Blogposting
Shadow Scout wrote: ↑Sun Mar 26, 2023 2:04 amSuppressed firearms? Recon aircraft? Shaped charges? Long guns? Violence to rapidly overcome opposition? I don't think anybody here is doing any of that on their night ops. Sounds like you've gone from a thief LARP to a special forces LARP. Why not just join the military?
![🙄](http://cdn.jsdelivr.net/emojione/assets/3.1/png/64/1f644.png)
Did you have something constructive to add or...? I guess you missed the part where I went to Area freaking 51 and flew a drone in there, my operations are national in scope. How? Because I steal from weak losers with poor OPSEC in order to fund sweet expeditions like that. That ain't the first time my exploits were featured in the news either. You know what the Georgia Guidestone monument USED to be? I did that. Why? Because I can. If you haven't seen it, look it up. Traveled 15 hours for that one.
Suppressed firearms. You know, the things that barely reduce the noise to a tolerable level? There is nothing mystical or magical about suppressors. Get the right size and thread adapter, screw a fram oil filter on, that's a suppressor. You can also buy solvent traps online freely, you just have to drill the hole in the end cap. Do not try to use any projectile that will go supersonic. If you use heavy enough projectiles, the sound will be closer to someone slamming a book closed. An -8db reduction is not out of the question.
Recon aircraft, IE: drone, balloon or anything that floats. Most already have a camera, all you need is a raspberry pi with an 802.11 radio.
Shaped charges, again easy, ANNM in a wine bottle w/ thin copper sheet formed at the base is a shaped charge. Works great for punching holes in heavy steel plate.
Long guns, again, check the thread on converting the commonly available versions to automatics. Its child's play. All you need is a jig for the third hole, can make or buy it. You can legally (ie openly) buy the M16 LPKs as well. The hardest part is fixing bolt bounce, which won't be a problem if you follow my instructions in that topic to the letter.
Its clear the only person larping is you. Anyone serious about operating should discard most of the junk shown here, forget the coolguy outfits, the toys, the spandex. It will get them killed. Keep it simple. Tools are just tools, gear is just gear, the mission is the focus always.
If you are out to do real operations, I'm your man. I'm back because I can't stand the amateur level of crap that fills most of these places. Like it or not, not everyone wants to roll around in the dark with a useless airsoft gun. I'm here for those people. I'd actually like to meet someone operating at a similar level, and work in a zero trust environment to coordinate our operations and get bigger paydays.
Its clear you still haven't bothered to research a single thing I've said. If you did, you would realize every word is accurate and holds up under real world conditions.
And yes, I feel for the man, woman or animal that stands between me and my objectives. I prefer to just avoid, but if someone intentionally places themselves between me and my objective I will put them down without a second thought.
BTW, I'm not going to get rich doing that GI joe ass bullshit. Those guys are mostly losers, have you seen the quality of the average "soldier" these days? Half of them are hooked on drugs. Not interested in that. I operate for one reason - money. Lots of it. Tax free money. It just so happens I use alot of the same shit because it works. Why re-invent the wheel.
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Re: Blogposting
I obviously did, I posted that here months before it hit the news.Shadow Scout wrote: ↑Sun Mar 26, 2023 8:27 pmYeah sure, you spied on Area 51 and blew up the Georgia Guidestones. Did you take down WTC tower 7 too? You’re obviously a troll or a nutter. A guy who did the things you’re talking about wouldn’t come on some random forum and brag about it. I get it though; people like to create online personas and role-play their fantasies. I do it too, but you're taking it to a whole 'nother level.
![🙄](http://cdn.jsdelivr.net/emojione/assets/3.1/png/64/1f644.png)
I'm not bragging about anything, I am teaching and learning. There's a difference. No personally identifiable details were revealed, nothing about my posts narrows down my real life identity or location.
This isn't some random forum. Its a lifestyle I've been a part of for 20 years and honestly expected to find up and coming operators on here. Instead, I've found people posting pictures of Kryptek, obviously fake rifles without a magazine inserted and saggy plate carriers stuffed with (my guess) cardboard instead of proper III/III+ plates
Go ahead, point to one thing I've said that is inaccurate. I don't care whether you believe me or not, put your money where your mouth is and show me one thing I've written that is false. You won't because you can't.
I'll wait.
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Re: Blogposting
https://night-ops.net/forum/viewtopic.p ... 464#p15967Shadow Scout wrote: ↑Sun Mar 26, 2023 8:27 pmYeah sure, you spied on Area 51 and blew up the Georgia Guidestones. Did you take down WTC tower 7 too? You’re obviously a troll or a nutter. A guy who did the things you’re talking about wouldn’t come on some random forum and brag about it. I get it though; people like to create online personas and role-play their fantasies. I do it too, but you're taking it to a whole 'nother level.
https://twitter.com/lemonodor/status/15 ... 1913170944
Not keeping up with current events is your mistake not mine. Only two possibilities here, either I'm clairvoyant or am telling you the truth (as much as opsec will permit)
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Re: Blogposting
Do you think I just pulled the Area 51 thing out of my ass months before anyone else had a clue it happened? The twitter post specifically mentions this site, hence the reason I came here to warn you guys feds are 10000% certainly watching this place. Beware, use your best OPSEC. They are furious over thisShadow Scout wrote: ↑Mon Mar 27, 2023 4:52 pmI see a post saying you flew a drone into Area 51 a few months earlier, and a twitter post saying something similar after the fact. And some non-existent drone pics. I see zero evidence that you had anything to do with destroying the Georgia Guidestones except your claim. I don't see what any of that proves.
So what's next on your agenda? If you want to be taken seriously, post something here before you do it so when it hits the news we'll believe you.
The operational advice I've given is sound and will hold up to real world scrutiny. From the weapons modifications to hacking instructions and drone modifications...its all real, it all holds up. Its funny because the stories I've shared have all been relatively minor and could've been achieved by just about anybody. The security of Area 51 is a joke, its 90% theater, plus they weren't expecting a fixed wing drone operating in GPS-only. There were no signals for ESM to detect, and it was made of foam (near zero RCS). It isn't their fault, there was no way they were going to detect it. The deck was stacked against them from the get go.
The location I initiated the flight, Alamo Road, is inside their restricted airspace (but not boundary). This is a pop-up threat and is not something they planned to counter. I bet they do now.
![Wink ;)](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
Still, if you could survive 100 miles in the desert (you can) you could simply walk in on foot while avoiding trails. People have done. One was an archaeologist, the other environmentalists. Nothing I've said is impossible or even that difficult.
Did you ever follow my hacking tutorial? If so, you'd have learned that yet another thing I said was completely accurate.
How about the modification of the AR-15 to operate automatically? Our resident gunsmith seemed to know *exactly* what I was talking about... funny isn't it?
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Re: Blogposting
There are not motion sensors around the entire perimeter of Area 51, only near the gates. Those are Dakota Alert brand motion detectors. There are sensors in the ground that also pick up on vibration, but with all the wildlife (not to mention foxhunting/jamming/spoof potential) those are no threat. FLIR, ammonia detectors and helicopter patrols. Again we're talking a location larger than some US states patrolled by a handful of security guards. There are no elite shadow Seal teams crawling around the desert looking for intruders, its mostly myth. Security theater at best. Private contractors at the perimeter and AF security police (pimply face 19 year old kids) who patrol the inner part of the base.
The archaeologist named Jerry Freeman had photos from the expedition before dying of a pre-existing medical condition (prostate cancer).
https://www.reddit.com/r/area51/comment ... _did_trek/
Greenpeace also did it, although not covertly.
There are only a handful of contracted security guards that sit at the gates and drive the trails in their 4x4 trucks. Its a hell of a lot easier than they make it out to be. Regardless, I did not do this, I flew a highly modified Disco fixed wing drone from Alamo road from South to North into Papoose lake, the same place Freeman walked to. To be more accurate the drone flew itself, I only had to hand launch it. Damn thing crashed when it tried to execute its landing, the hard desert floor and increased battery weight was not a good mixture.
Freeman never claimed to see evidence of the base at Papoose although he did spot strange lights there at night. He didn't care about the base at all, he was trying to follow the last part of the 49'ers trail
The archaeologist named Jerry Freeman had photos from the expedition before dying of a pre-existing medical condition (prostate cancer).
https://www.reddit.com/r/area51/comment ... _did_trek/
Greenpeace also did it, although not covertly.
There are only a handful of contracted security guards that sit at the gates and drive the trails in their 4x4 trucks. Its a hell of a lot easier than they make it out to be. Regardless, I did not do this, I flew a highly modified Disco fixed wing drone from Alamo road from South to North into Papoose lake, the same place Freeman walked to. To be more accurate the drone flew itself, I only had to hand launch it. Damn thing crashed when it tried to execute its landing, the hard desert floor and increased battery weight was not a good mixture.
Freeman never claimed to see evidence of the base at Papoose although he did spot strange lights there at night. He didn't care about the base at all, he was trying to follow the last part of the 49'ers trail
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Re: Blogposting
Try this link it has the picture of him standing with the terrain of Papoose lake in the background
https://www.otherhand.org/Stuff/Freeman.pdf
And some other pics he took. His family has the full sets of photos, or possibly given to George Knapp nobody knows for sure.
The BS surrounding his death (claims he died from radiation, totally untrue) are all part of the security theater.
He walked in from the south. I too calculated it was the weakest point in their defenses. The fact they didn't expect a consumer grade drone to fly around 80 miles was their downfall. Check out similar modified disco drones, they've gone much further actually.
It was GPS only, no signals for them to pick up on. The worst part was waiting on it wondering if it would come back. The drone crashing anywhere within the restricted boundary wouldve been the worst case scenario. I spent hours cleaning up the debris.
https://www.otherhand.org/Stuff/Freeman.pdf
And some other pics he took. His family has the full sets of photos, or possibly given to George Knapp nobody knows for sure.
The BS surrounding his death (claims he died from radiation, totally untrue) are all part of the security theater.
He walked in from the south. I too calculated it was the weakest point in their defenses. The fact they didn't expect a consumer grade drone to fly around 80 miles was their downfall. Check out similar modified disco drones, they've gone much further actually.
It was GPS only, no signals for them to pick up on. The worst part was waiting on it wondering if it would come back. The drone crashing anywhere within the restricted boundary wouldve been the worst case scenario. I spent hours cleaning up the debris.
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Re: Blogposting
I was originally planning to walk in SS, but came up with the fixed wing drone instead. If the drone had crashed inside the boundary or failed to reach the target, that was actually the backup plan. Fortunately it wasn't needed. You are right though, water was the biggest concern. Hauling enough to last me 100 miles was a logistics problem I am still not certain I'd have been able to solve. Jerry Freeman said it was a problem for him, he lucked out near the RWMS and drank out of a garden hose and then a natural spring further along his route. I had planned to retrace his steps if I did have to walk in. Freeman said if he had been injured or in trouble, finding someone to turn himself in to would have been a challenge. We are talking many miles of desert with no roads, no 4x4 trail, just empty desert and around 1000 craters from various nuclear tests
I did accomplish the goal of showing that a structure of some type exists at Papoose lake, something the government had denied for three decades. No proof of anything that is or was inside of the structure
The original pics I posted showed pictures of the trip, including the $900 smashed Disco. I can only assure you I would've never wasted $900 just to pull a prank on you guys. The reason I posted that originally is because I had hoped people would see how easy some of these tasks were, and it would inspire them to set their sights on bigger targets
I can also say for certain the FBI and AFOSI is royally pissed over this whole thing. The fact they booted the wrong guy's door in only adds fuel to the fire. I suspect they will have beefed up security significantly, if only temporarily. Over the past few decades, the only real security threats they've had are tourists stepping a few feet over their border at or near one of the three gates facing public land (Gate 700 leads in from the nuclear test site). Most people, even today, think of a COTS drone and think 30 minutes of flight with a couple miles best. This was a novel weakness that I (and possibly others before me) managed to exploit. I was dozens of miles from Groom lake itself, from a location much further away than other border points. Rachel for instance is only 10 or so miles away. Any drone defense they had would have surely been focused primarily there
But its mostly about signals and a little bit about radar cross section. The single prop fixed wing was pretty quiet, and I painted it a grey color that blended nicely with the clouds and sky. Visual stealth was never going to make or break the mission. It was made of foam, so other than its antenna and battery the radar cross section was very small. It was also flying lower than Papoose mountain most of the time, which prevents Groom from having a direct view of the flight path, so radar was never going to be a threat. Even if they had picked something up it was flying slower than any plane's stall speed, they would have likely just chalked it up as a bird or ground clutter. Signals were my main concern, and I mitigated that by operating in GPS only save for the initial hand launch which used a set of radios running on the 4G frequencies. Because 4G is encrypted, it would have been able to blend enough that a 4G signal lasting a minute or so wouldn't have alerted the cavalry. Once it was in the air, I loaded the GPS waypoint program and sent it on its way
I spent more money just traveling to Nevada than I did on the op itself.![😋](//cdn.jsdelivr.net/emojione/assets/3.1/png/64/1f60b.png)
By the way, here's something they've never published about the Georgia Guidestones. The explosive used was Tannerite with an ANNM (ammonium nitrate nitro methane) booster and a mercury fulminate cap.
I did accomplish the goal of showing that a structure of some type exists at Papoose lake, something the government had denied for three decades. No proof of anything that is or was inside of the structure
I had actually been taking antibiotics that suppress ammonia levels in my sweat/breath for 10 days prior to the OP just in case I had to. I had tried to build a rubber suit I could pump refrigerant into, but couldn't come up with anything so Mylar and Multicam would've been the goto for avoiding any thermal imaging systems I was able to detect. I don't know whether I am the first to fly a drone in there or not, but as far as I can tell I am the first person to anonymously admit to it. I have to believe others have done so already, the battery I had installed would have been able to fly that route twice with a little bit to spareAre you confident enough of that to try hiking in?
The original pics I posted showed pictures of the trip, including the $900 smashed Disco. I can only assure you I would've never wasted $900 just to pull a prank on you guys. The reason I posted that originally is because I had hoped people would see how easy some of these tasks were, and it would inspire them to set their sights on bigger targets
I can also say for certain the FBI and AFOSI is royally pissed over this whole thing. The fact they booted the wrong guy's door in only adds fuel to the fire. I suspect they will have beefed up security significantly, if only temporarily. Over the past few decades, the only real security threats they've had are tourists stepping a few feet over their border at or near one of the three gates facing public land (Gate 700 leads in from the nuclear test site). Most people, even today, think of a COTS drone and think 30 minutes of flight with a couple miles best. This was a novel weakness that I (and possibly others before me) managed to exploit. I was dozens of miles from Groom lake itself, from a location much further away than other border points. Rachel for instance is only 10 or so miles away. Any drone defense they had would have surely been focused primarily there
But its mostly about signals and a little bit about radar cross section. The single prop fixed wing was pretty quiet, and I painted it a grey color that blended nicely with the clouds and sky. Visual stealth was never going to make or break the mission. It was made of foam, so other than its antenna and battery the radar cross section was very small. It was also flying lower than Papoose mountain most of the time, which prevents Groom from having a direct view of the flight path, so radar was never going to be a threat. Even if they had picked something up it was flying slower than any plane's stall speed, they would have likely just chalked it up as a bird or ground clutter. Signals were my main concern, and I mitigated that by operating in GPS only save for the initial hand launch which used a set of radios running on the 4G frequencies. Because 4G is encrypted, it would have been able to blend enough that a 4G signal lasting a minute or so wouldn't have alerted the cavalry. Once it was in the air, I loaded the GPS waypoint program and sent it on its way
I spent more money just traveling to Nevada than I did on the op itself.
![😋](http://cdn.jsdelivr.net/emojione/assets/3.1/png/64/1f60b.png)
By the way, here's something they've never published about the Georgia Guidestones. The explosive used was Tannerite with an ANNM (ammonium nitrate nitro methane) booster and a mercury fulminate cap.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
Seems like the thread got slightly derailed but it is what it is.
Time to share what I've learned practicing a month of stealth walking.
Once it comes to walking forwards, I have come to use a technique where the first part of my shoe that touches the ground is the front outer area, it is then followed by the rest of the front in a rolling-like motion, then the back, I have chosen this because it works the best with my pair of shoes, as other techniques like stepping with the back area first then the rest of the shoe or a flat step made a noticeable "thump" noise (as well as being prone to sliding/scraping and making more noise) for the former or were really slow for the latter, with this technique, I have silence (except for a nearly unnoticeable noise that I think must be from my shoe stretching and compressing due to movement) and an acceptable amount of speed.
Walking backwards is pretty much the same, but you're walking backwards, not much to elaborate here.
Now to the sides, there are two techniques, one where your leg crosses the other and one that doesn't, I have found that the one that doesn't is better for the single purpose of moving to the sides (nearly as fast, more silent and stable) but I still think it's worth training the other at least a bit because the body control you learn with it helps when doing other things like changing directions without moving out of place. The difference with the stepping technique here is that you step with the front inner area of the shoe for one leg and with with the outer for the other.
The above is considering a flat, somewhat clean floor made out of porcelain tiles, the one you can potentially find inside a house, things change slightly on other types of flooring. I have access to three types of floor to train on, the one already stated, one that is made of a mix of rocks and concrete and one that is made mostly just out of concrete with not many rocks mixed in, but is very dirty, much like the floor you would find in a construction site.
The porcelain one is by far the easiest to walk on, it's only difficulty is that it's usually found inside structures so the background sound is very intolerant of mistakes, the concrete and rock mix is also pretty easy, it's out in the open so the rain keeps it more or less clean of small rocks and things that can make crunching noises, it still can happen, but it's not that common, it's problem is that it wasn't made perfectly flat so it really highlights the importance of properly lifting your feet in order to avoid very loud scraping noises. Now, the construction site like floor, that one is hell, the small rocks and dust that is on the floor make it impossible to step without making any noise, a very slow flat step helps but there is still a crunching noise, the only thing that can be mostly silenced is the sound of lifting the foot, if you lift it as flat as possible it tends to not make a lot of noise.
Some extra things I've learned:
At the start there was a tendency to have the feet and legs move forwards with the upper portion of the body lagging behind, this is very bad because it ruins your balance and make it possible for you to be seem way before you see them, it also looks really weird, so make sure to remain straight.
Do not overextend your steps, doing so makes it more likely to lose your balance, losing your balance means either falling or having to make an emergency step that can be almost as loud as falling.
30 minute sets of training are too long if you are a zoomer with burned out dopamine receptors like myself, a good training session for me tends to be something like 15 minutes of walking forwards, 5 minutes of looking at something in my phone to regain focus, 15 minutes of walking backwards, 5 of phone, 15 of walking to the left, 5 phone, 15 right. This way I can maintain focus and learn properly. You should also do sets of walking around in a dynamic way, of course.
So yeah, this is about it for walking. Right now I'm dedicating myself to something I completely forgot about, walking around in total darkness, should do about a week of this, then I'll do stealth running, that from my experimentation seems to be much simpler than I previously thought, just a slowish lightfooted run, it also seems to be impossible or just not a good idea to run to the sides or backwards in a silent manner, so I'll be cutting those off, I guess the training time fell from a month to about a week for that.
Heh, considering I only have hard surfaces to train on, I guess my greatest weakness is touching grass.
End of blogpost.
Time to share what I've learned practicing a month of stealth walking.
Once it comes to walking forwards, I have come to use a technique where the first part of my shoe that touches the ground is the front outer area, it is then followed by the rest of the front in a rolling-like motion, then the back, I have chosen this because it works the best with my pair of shoes, as other techniques like stepping with the back area first then the rest of the shoe or a flat step made a noticeable "thump" noise (as well as being prone to sliding/scraping and making more noise) for the former or were really slow for the latter, with this technique, I have silence (except for a nearly unnoticeable noise that I think must be from my shoe stretching and compressing due to movement) and an acceptable amount of speed.
Walking backwards is pretty much the same, but you're walking backwards, not much to elaborate here.
Now to the sides, there are two techniques, one where your leg crosses the other and one that doesn't, I have found that the one that doesn't is better for the single purpose of moving to the sides (nearly as fast, more silent and stable) but I still think it's worth training the other at least a bit because the body control you learn with it helps when doing other things like changing directions without moving out of place. The difference with the stepping technique here is that you step with the front inner area of the shoe for one leg and with with the outer for the other.
The above is considering a flat, somewhat clean floor made out of porcelain tiles, the one you can potentially find inside a house, things change slightly on other types of flooring. I have access to three types of floor to train on, the one already stated, one that is made of a mix of rocks and concrete and one that is made mostly just out of concrete with not many rocks mixed in, but is very dirty, much like the floor you would find in a construction site.
The porcelain one is by far the easiest to walk on, it's only difficulty is that it's usually found inside structures so the background sound is very intolerant of mistakes, the concrete and rock mix is also pretty easy, it's out in the open so the rain keeps it more or less clean of small rocks and things that can make crunching noises, it still can happen, but it's not that common, it's problem is that it wasn't made perfectly flat so it really highlights the importance of properly lifting your feet in order to avoid very loud scraping noises. Now, the construction site like floor, that one is hell, the small rocks and dust that is on the floor make it impossible to step without making any noise, a very slow flat step helps but there is still a crunching noise, the only thing that can be mostly silenced is the sound of lifting the foot, if you lift it as flat as possible it tends to not make a lot of noise.
Some extra things I've learned:
At the start there was a tendency to have the feet and legs move forwards with the upper portion of the body lagging behind, this is very bad because it ruins your balance and make it possible for you to be seem way before you see them, it also looks really weird, so make sure to remain straight.
Do not overextend your steps, doing so makes it more likely to lose your balance, losing your balance means either falling or having to make an emergency step that can be almost as loud as falling.
30 minute sets of training are too long if you are a zoomer with burned out dopamine receptors like myself, a good training session for me tends to be something like 15 minutes of walking forwards, 5 minutes of looking at something in my phone to regain focus, 15 minutes of walking backwards, 5 of phone, 15 of walking to the left, 5 phone, 15 right. This way I can maintain focus and learn properly. You should also do sets of walking around in a dynamic way, of course.
So yeah, this is about it for walking. Right now I'm dedicating myself to something I completely forgot about, walking around in total darkness, should do about a week of this, then I'll do stealth running, that from my experimentation seems to be much simpler than I previously thought, just a slowish lightfooted run, it also seems to be impossible or just not a good idea to run to the sides or backwards in a silent manner, so I'll be cutting those off, I guess the training time fell from a month to about a week for that.
Heh, considering I only have hard surfaces to train on, I guess my greatest weakness is touching grass.
End of blogpost.
The idea is to use this "stealth run" in situations that allow for it's use, like, picture a situation like this, you're at the top of the rooftop of a building, right next to a suspended highway, you need to get from one point of concealment to another, but there is a guard facing away from you looking at the highway, he can look back at any moment for whatever reason, you cannot wait for him to go away and must make the move, you also can't shoot him, so you must move as fast as possible while remaining undetected, stealth walking would be too slow, just bolting would make a noise that surpasses the sound of cars going by, but a light footed run would be both fast enough while also being silent enough, an alternative scenario would be just the guard being kind of far away.basewatcher wrote: ↑Sat Mar 25, 2023 11:44 pmJust a couple observations
There isn't really a tradeoff between speed and stealth, you need to decide when to operate stealthily and when to go dynamic. Speed can be your security or stealth can be your security. If you try to do both you will end up doing neither one very well. If you are creeping to the point where the sound of a smartly conducted jog/double time will give you away, then you need to be moving stealthily possibly doing a high or low crawl. And when speed is your security, you need to double time it without regard to making noise.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
Oh, and I almost forgot, here's an image to make it easier to understand what I'm talking about once it comes to the relevant parts of a shoe.
Red - Front
Yellow - Front outer
Blue - Front Inner
Black - Back
Red - Front
Yellow - Front outer
Blue - Front Inner
Black - Back
- Xanatos
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Re: Blogposting
Take into account the type of surface you're walking on too. While overextending your steps may lead to poor balance, it's also useful for spreading your weight when moving across surfaces like wooden floorboards, scaffolding or ice. The more you spread your weight out, the less likely it is to creak.
We are all books containing thousands of pages and within each lies an irreparable truth.
What is locked, can be opened. What is hidden, can be found. What is yours... can be mine.
What is locked, can be opened. What is hidden, can be found. What is yours... can be mine.
- Vengeance
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Re: Blogposting
I find moving on all fours like an ape is good for that.
![Image](https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.fineartamerica.com%2Fimages-medium-large%2Fape-walking-teresa-blanton.jpg&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=8b35e132ff61e312ca233bf9d14af066a482ec39d5d2e79accd4321b9c6bd021&ipo=images)
![Image](https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse2.explicit.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.B9XMUuA6uAPmBmIdYI-1zgHaE8%26pid%3DApi&f=1&ipt=26772218a7bff86ac244d543a775a320de7f88a2c34f698cdb0e9eef4b3fbccb&ipo=images)
![Image](https://external-content.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.fineartamerica.com%2Fimages-medium-large%2Fape-walking-teresa-blanton.jpg&f=1&nofb=1&ipt=8b35e132ff61e312ca233bf9d14af066a482ec39d5d2e79accd4321b9c6bd021&ipo=images)
It's the nature of this beast to feed upon the will to numb it, this monster brought the seed of life, well now i have become it.
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Re: Blogposting
For Telegram there's an option to hide your phone number from other viewers. idk if that helps at all.
i agree that telegram might be harder to deal with opsec wise but it allows for more mobile access than this format.
i agree that telegram might be harder to deal with opsec wise but it allows for more mobile access than this format.
There are hunters and there are victims. By your cunning, you will decide whether you are a hunter or a victim.
Re: Blogposting
Get a burner phone to use for Telegram's auth only.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
True, I didn't think of that, though I suppose the moment you lift one of your feet all your weight is going to be focused on a single spot, so returning to monke like Vengeance said would probably be for the best if possible.Xanatos wrote: ↑Mon Apr 10, 2023 9:56 amTake into account the type of surface you're walking on too. While overextending your steps may lead to poor balance, it's also useful for spreading your weight when moving across surfaces like wooden floorboards, scaffolding or ice. The more you spread your weight out, the less likely it is to creak.
As for Telegram, hiding my number from other users is not enough, I want Telegram itself to not have access to my real number tied to my identity and to my IP as well, all possible but burner phones are quite expensive so I think I'll try buying some virtual number service using crypto or something like that. Not now tho, now I want to focus on training.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
Alright so, I didn't practice walking in the dark for all this time since the last blogpost, I got sick for about two weeks and rendered unable to do anything besides rest.
But now I'm good so let's begin.
The first thing I should talk about is how I trained this seeing as we now live in a world with lampposts and other light sources everywhere meaning total darkness is increasingly harder to create, at least in urban settings, I mean, even the sky becomes a light "source" if it's cloudy at this point. If we can't create total darkness we have to simulate it, I haven't got a blindfold but I do have a beanie, I just extend the fabric until it reaches the tip of my nose and that's it, I can't see but I can still breathe. Yes, I could just close my eyes but I suspect that it's not the same for some reason and since it's good to train how you fight it's better not to do that as it would be bad to do it in a real scenario.
Now I am blind... folded... sort off, now what? Well now I went to the corridor of my house, a long but thin area where I can concentrate objects on the ground and have walls by my side as a last resort in case I lose my balance, but really the main purpose is so I don't walk off and away from where the objects are, speaking of which, the objects are whatever I could find in five minutes of search, boxes, square, rectangular, medium, small, heavy, light, cardboard, plastic, reusable supermarket bags, shoes, long tubes made out of some very rigid cardboard, God I hate them, bubble wrap, some foam thing, just random objects you can commonly find on the ground sometimes.
So I put the objects on the ground, the beanie on top of my eyes and went all the way to the end of the corridor then back down the corridor for a few days, after that I also started to do something different, I went outside all the way to the gate (everything is surrounded by walls and the gate is not see through so I don't have to worry about people seeing me), put the beanie on and rotated around for a few seconds, now my objective is to find the house again, get in, find and walk around all areas of my house, get back out of the house and reach the gate again, all while not being able to see.
Now the things I learned doing this.
The first thing of note is balance, it was very bad at the start, now it's... mediocre. I did some balance drills like the one's Stealth Technique did in his video about silent walking but I much preferred to learn by just doing the walking around drills, what really helped was watching a video of the Nindo Channel about silent walking (I think), I couldn't find the video again but in it someone says that you must have enough strength on your legs to keep your balance properly or something like that, I then realized that I was attempting to balance myself by just trying to keep my center of gravity, well, centered, instead of using the muscles in my legs to keep myself rigid and in place as well as the center of gravity aligned. Another thing I noticed that ruined my balance was being tired, or eepy if you will, for some reason I just can't keep myself balanced on one leg if I want to sleep, I have found no fix for this besides sleeping unfortunately. One more thing, you need to have a decent base, you must make sure to not align or get close to align both of your feet in front of each other as that leads to very poor balance.
Poorly made illustrative image.
As for walking itself, I have identified that there are two strategies, the first being to lift your leg and foot as high as possible and the second being to keep your foot close to the ground.
The first one has as it's main advantage avoiding contact with objects and probing to put your foot back on the ground, which is pretty good as no contact means no sound, but doing that is extremely reliant on your balance, if it's bad you will start to fall, then you will have to chose between attempting to hold onto something nearby (I avoided doing this as much as possible as I would not always have walls by my side and therefore did to want to develop that as my first response), quickly putting your foot on the ground or falling. Trying to hold on to something is kind of risky as there is a chance that you find nothing and have to resort to an even quicker step or fall, find something but it's something like metal and touching it is loud, find something but it's something unstable like a coat hanger and fall with it or you could find a wall that stabilizes you and doesn't make a lot of noise. Then there is putting your feet on the ground, very risky as there is a good chance you will kick something and make lots of noise, have an imperfect step and make some noise or a low chance of a perfect step with little to no noise at all. Falling is by far the worst option, it's guaranteed to make noise, hurt you and leave you vulnerable due to being on the ground. On the probing to put your foot on the ground phase, you should go as slow as possible in order to minimize sounds of impacts on objects.
The second one, to keep your foot close to the ground, is good as it doesn't rely on your balance too much making it very unlikely that you begin to fall but it also means you will have lots of contact with everything on the ground, so potentially lots of noise. You can minimize that potential noise by going very slowly, that way, any impacts on objects will make as little noise as possible, it will also be slightly less likely to tip over long objects set upright and make then fall, making lots of noise.
Overall, I personally prefer to begin by keeping close to the ground and switching to the lift strategy once I find an object that I wish to bypass instead of looking for a way around for whatever reason I find at the moment, in other words, be flexible with them.
On the objects that I used as obstacles, the cardboard tubes set upright were certainly the most annoying, the slightest touch was capable of sending them down to the ground, I eventually got the idea to catch them before they fall and I did practice it for a bit but I eventually realized that it would be useless on a real scenario as I would need to be expecting it, very improbable in reality, a dead end and research was halted. Second most annoying were reusable supermarket bags, any touch on them was loud, even if very slow, I usually preferred to bypass them by using the lift strategy, to do that I'd get as close to them as possible and then bypass as it would ensure I'm having to lift for the shortest distance and time possible, minimizing the chances of a loss of balance. The boxes, foam thing and bubble wrap were ok, just don't step on or touch them too fast and you should be good.
Extra notes:
Keeping your arms lifted at the height and your hands aligned with but not touching your chest avoids you bumping head first into things and also seems to have a positive effect on balance.
This is not 100% related to the topic but it sort of is, I realized that if you are in a room that is completely dark you can point your torch to the ceiling and have the light just reflect off into everything else, thus lighting up the room in an uniform manner, you can also use your hand to limit how much light the torch outputs therefore how much it lights up the room! This is potentially better than just pointing the torch at stuff as that can reveal your exact position or wake somebody up if you accidentally point the light directly to their face.
End of notes.
This is about it for walking around in pitch black darkness. Now I will dedicate myself to learning wall movement instead of stealth running as all this time sitting around due to being sick probably destroyed my cardio, I think two weeks to a month should suffice for the standing wall stuff.
End of blogpost.
But now I'm good so let's begin.
The first thing I should talk about is how I trained this seeing as we now live in a world with lampposts and other light sources everywhere meaning total darkness is increasingly harder to create, at least in urban settings, I mean, even the sky becomes a light "source" if it's cloudy at this point. If we can't create total darkness we have to simulate it, I haven't got a blindfold but I do have a beanie, I just extend the fabric until it reaches the tip of my nose and that's it, I can't see but I can still breathe. Yes, I could just close my eyes but I suspect that it's not the same for some reason and since it's good to train how you fight it's better not to do that as it would be bad to do it in a real scenario.
Now I am blind... folded... sort off, now what? Well now I went to the corridor of my house, a long but thin area where I can concentrate objects on the ground and have walls by my side as a last resort in case I lose my balance, but really the main purpose is so I don't walk off and away from where the objects are, speaking of which, the objects are whatever I could find in five minutes of search, boxes, square, rectangular, medium, small, heavy, light, cardboard, plastic, reusable supermarket bags, shoes, long tubes made out of some very rigid cardboard, God I hate them, bubble wrap, some foam thing, just random objects you can commonly find on the ground sometimes.
So I put the objects on the ground, the beanie on top of my eyes and went all the way to the end of the corridor then back down the corridor for a few days, after that I also started to do something different, I went outside all the way to the gate (everything is surrounded by walls and the gate is not see through so I don't have to worry about people seeing me), put the beanie on and rotated around for a few seconds, now my objective is to find the house again, get in, find and walk around all areas of my house, get back out of the house and reach the gate again, all while not being able to see.
Now the things I learned doing this.
The first thing of note is balance, it was very bad at the start, now it's... mediocre. I did some balance drills like the one's Stealth Technique did in his video about silent walking but I much preferred to learn by just doing the walking around drills, what really helped was watching a video of the Nindo Channel about silent walking (I think), I couldn't find the video again but in it someone says that you must have enough strength on your legs to keep your balance properly or something like that, I then realized that I was attempting to balance myself by just trying to keep my center of gravity, well, centered, instead of using the muscles in my legs to keep myself rigid and in place as well as the center of gravity aligned. Another thing I noticed that ruined my balance was being tired, or eepy if you will, for some reason I just can't keep myself balanced on one leg if I want to sleep, I have found no fix for this besides sleeping unfortunately. One more thing, you need to have a decent base, you must make sure to not align or get close to align both of your feet in front of each other as that leads to very poor balance.
Poorly made illustrative image.
As for walking itself, I have identified that there are two strategies, the first being to lift your leg and foot as high as possible and the second being to keep your foot close to the ground.
The first one has as it's main advantage avoiding contact with objects and probing to put your foot back on the ground, which is pretty good as no contact means no sound, but doing that is extremely reliant on your balance, if it's bad you will start to fall, then you will have to chose between attempting to hold onto something nearby (I avoided doing this as much as possible as I would not always have walls by my side and therefore did to want to develop that as my first response), quickly putting your foot on the ground or falling. Trying to hold on to something is kind of risky as there is a chance that you find nothing and have to resort to an even quicker step or fall, find something but it's something like metal and touching it is loud, find something but it's something unstable like a coat hanger and fall with it or you could find a wall that stabilizes you and doesn't make a lot of noise. Then there is putting your feet on the ground, very risky as there is a good chance you will kick something and make lots of noise, have an imperfect step and make some noise or a low chance of a perfect step with little to no noise at all. Falling is by far the worst option, it's guaranteed to make noise, hurt you and leave you vulnerable due to being on the ground. On the probing to put your foot on the ground phase, you should go as slow as possible in order to minimize sounds of impacts on objects.
The second one, to keep your foot close to the ground, is good as it doesn't rely on your balance too much making it very unlikely that you begin to fall but it also means you will have lots of contact with everything on the ground, so potentially lots of noise. You can minimize that potential noise by going very slowly, that way, any impacts on objects will make as little noise as possible, it will also be slightly less likely to tip over long objects set upright and make then fall, making lots of noise.
Overall, I personally prefer to begin by keeping close to the ground and switching to the lift strategy once I find an object that I wish to bypass instead of looking for a way around for whatever reason I find at the moment, in other words, be flexible with them.
On the objects that I used as obstacles, the cardboard tubes set upright were certainly the most annoying, the slightest touch was capable of sending them down to the ground, I eventually got the idea to catch them before they fall and I did practice it for a bit but I eventually realized that it would be useless on a real scenario as I would need to be expecting it, very improbable in reality, a dead end and research was halted. Second most annoying were reusable supermarket bags, any touch on them was loud, even if very slow, I usually preferred to bypass them by using the lift strategy, to do that I'd get as close to them as possible and then bypass as it would ensure I'm having to lift for the shortest distance and time possible, minimizing the chances of a loss of balance. The boxes, foam thing and bubble wrap were ok, just don't step on or touch them too fast and you should be good.
Extra notes:
Keeping your arms lifted at the height and your hands aligned with but not touching your chest avoids you bumping head first into things and also seems to have a positive effect on balance.
This is not 100% related to the topic but it sort of is, I realized that if you are in a room that is completely dark you can point your torch to the ceiling and have the light just reflect off into everything else, thus lighting up the room in an uniform manner, you can also use your hand to limit how much light the torch outputs therefore how much it lights up the room! This is potentially better than just pointing the torch at stuff as that can reveal your exact position or wake somebody up if you accidentally point the light directly to their face.
End of notes.
This is about it for walking around in pitch black darkness. Now I will dedicate myself to learning wall movement instead of stealth running as all this time sitting around due to being sick probably destroyed my cardio, I think two weeks to a month should suffice for the standing wall stuff.
End of blogpost.
I did use it to get a fake Telegram number back in the day but now it doesn't work with a VPN or Orbot anymore, at least not for me.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
Ok, standing wall movement, this one should be shorter as there really isn't much to it.
First, how to train this? All you need is a wall, but it's also good to have shoes if you plan to operate with shoes. I've started by doing the most basic, getting into a flattened position with a back to the wall start, first day was pretty bad, big improvements on the second, and on the third I started to also flatten from the sides as well, another one or two days of that and I also started to train flattening while facing the wall, after that I've started to move along with the wall, from one side to the other, changing direction while flattened. I'd start the training of the day with the early stuff and move on to the latter stuff. Of course, it wasn't strict, if on the first day I had an idea and wanted to experiment with it I'd stop what I was doing and try it out, it's good to do this as you get some familiarization with the things you haven't "unlocked" yet and possibly make it easier to learn them later on. I'd also train all of this while looking at different directions. I used a timer ratio of ten minutes of training for 5 minutes of rest because training this is very boring.
Now for what I've learned. In order to move with the wall you must first get to it, so I'll begin with that.
Well the first thing to note is that you actually don't really want to "flatten", at least not your feet, because when you do that there is a significant chance you will hit the wall too fast with your shoe, making quite a lot of noise, so I'd recommend stopping your feet a bit early, about 3 or 3 and a half centimeters before hitting the wall, this gives you a pretty good assurance you will not hit the wall with some room for error while also not being too detrimental to how much more you are likely to be detected. I'm pretty sure you could train a lot to flatten perfectly while not making noise but I don't think it's very likely you would ever need it, so I'd say it's a poor time investment. You could also just correct the feet after flattening if you have the time for it.
The rest of your body you want to flatten, but try to carefully yet quickly put one of your hands on the wall before the rest of your body so you know how far the wall is, this should help you avoid slamming your body on the wall, that would make less noise than the shoes but still, not good.
The above applies to all directions, but the following is specially important to all directions of approach that aren't back towards the wall, that being, footwork. You must turn the foot that makes the first step towards the wall in the direction that will help you turn the rest of your body towards the direction you desire, I think this is pretty obvious and comes off naturally but still worth mentioning.
Also obvious but still worth mentioning is that the material you flatten against matters, a solid and stable brick and concrete wall is much quieter than hollow and unstable metal or wood, so be more careful with those.
Now what I learned about the namesake of this skill group, wall movement.
Again, you are not supposed to "flatten", this time this goes for your whole body, anything that is touching the wall when you move will make a very noticeable scraping noise, as a bonus, it will also shred your clothes if the surface you're in contact with is not smooth. Unless your opponent is deaf, very far away or there is sufficient sound cover while also not having the shredding thing be a problem for whatever reason, I'd highly recommend that you train to be very close to the wall but not actually touch it.
As for how to move, it's pretty much the same techniques for stealth walking to the sides but with minor differences. The simple and easy method is one where you don't cross your legs, you just move one leg to the direction you want to go and then bring the other leg to the one that has advanced, keep repeating until you've reached where you wanted to reach, this method is slower but due to it's less complex nature it has a much lower chance of you making some mistake that creates noise and also keeps your whole body closer to the wall and as a result harder to be detected, on the other hand, the method that has you crossing your legs is faster, but has more "moving parts" and consequently more room for errors that would result in noise, in order to minimize that noise and also maximize speed, you should turn your torso a bit to the direction you want to go in order to allow your legs to move more forwards than to the sides as that will cause them to not scrape each other, however, remember to tuck the shoulder that is opposite to the direction you are moving back to the wall to reduce how much you stick out.
Reversing is simple and easy for the simple and easy method, just look to the other direction and do the same thing but with the roles of the legs reversed, for the more complex method you have two options, you can just do everything in reverse, good if you want to keep looking at the direction opposite to where you're moving towards, or you can turn your body to the other side and just move normally to that direction, this latter method is faster and less complicated so has less chances of you committing some mistake that makes noise.
But what if you can't see? Maybe it's way too dark or you want to look at another direction different from where you're going. Then you should use the hand that is closer to the direction you are going to scout ahead by lightly tapping the wall with your fingertips for potential problems.
Extra notes:
I've started to also train stealth walking forwards in a less weird way, by first planting the back of my shoe and then progressively rolling the rest of it forwards until it's entirely on the ground. I think the previous problems I had with this method were because of a lack of body control that would cause me to hit the back of the shoe on the ground too fast making a thumping noise or hitting the ground at an angle, cause the shoe to slide and make a scraping noise, the other method probably forced me to be more careful due to the fear of making a mistake and breaking my ankle. This has been very useful for wall movement as the more complex method of moving greatly improves if you step with the leg closer to the wall back first and with the other side first.
Pain. Both movement methods cause pain. The simple one causes it on your neck due to looking way too much to the side in order to see where you're going and also on the side leg muscles due to having to repeatedly lift them mostly by themselves without much support from the stronger front and back leg muscles. The complex method causes it on your shoulder due to having to constantly force it back. Pain.
End of notes.
That is it for standing wall movement, next is stealth running, should take about a week to train it to a good level but the report will probably only come out later because I may have to travel.
End of blogpost.
First, how to train this? All you need is a wall, but it's also good to have shoes if you plan to operate with shoes. I've started by doing the most basic, getting into a flattened position with a back to the wall start, first day was pretty bad, big improvements on the second, and on the third I started to also flatten from the sides as well, another one or two days of that and I also started to train flattening while facing the wall, after that I've started to move along with the wall, from one side to the other, changing direction while flattened. I'd start the training of the day with the early stuff and move on to the latter stuff. Of course, it wasn't strict, if on the first day I had an idea and wanted to experiment with it I'd stop what I was doing and try it out, it's good to do this as you get some familiarization with the things you haven't "unlocked" yet and possibly make it easier to learn them later on. I'd also train all of this while looking at different directions. I used a timer ratio of ten minutes of training for 5 minutes of rest because training this is very boring.
Now for what I've learned. In order to move with the wall you must first get to it, so I'll begin with that.
Well the first thing to note is that you actually don't really want to "flatten", at least not your feet, because when you do that there is a significant chance you will hit the wall too fast with your shoe, making quite a lot of noise, so I'd recommend stopping your feet a bit early, about 3 or 3 and a half centimeters before hitting the wall, this gives you a pretty good assurance you will not hit the wall with some room for error while also not being too detrimental to how much more you are likely to be detected. I'm pretty sure you could train a lot to flatten perfectly while not making noise but I don't think it's very likely you would ever need it, so I'd say it's a poor time investment. You could also just correct the feet after flattening if you have the time for it.
The rest of your body you want to flatten, but try to carefully yet quickly put one of your hands on the wall before the rest of your body so you know how far the wall is, this should help you avoid slamming your body on the wall, that would make less noise than the shoes but still, not good.
The above applies to all directions, but the following is specially important to all directions of approach that aren't back towards the wall, that being, footwork. You must turn the foot that makes the first step towards the wall in the direction that will help you turn the rest of your body towards the direction you desire, I think this is pretty obvious and comes off naturally but still worth mentioning.
Also obvious but still worth mentioning is that the material you flatten against matters, a solid and stable brick and concrete wall is much quieter than hollow and unstable metal or wood, so be more careful with those.
Now what I learned about the namesake of this skill group, wall movement.
Again, you are not supposed to "flatten", this time this goes for your whole body, anything that is touching the wall when you move will make a very noticeable scraping noise, as a bonus, it will also shred your clothes if the surface you're in contact with is not smooth. Unless your opponent is deaf, very far away or there is sufficient sound cover while also not having the shredding thing be a problem for whatever reason, I'd highly recommend that you train to be very close to the wall but not actually touch it.
As for how to move, it's pretty much the same techniques for stealth walking to the sides but with minor differences. The simple and easy method is one where you don't cross your legs, you just move one leg to the direction you want to go and then bring the other leg to the one that has advanced, keep repeating until you've reached where you wanted to reach, this method is slower but due to it's less complex nature it has a much lower chance of you making some mistake that creates noise and also keeps your whole body closer to the wall and as a result harder to be detected, on the other hand, the method that has you crossing your legs is faster, but has more "moving parts" and consequently more room for errors that would result in noise, in order to minimize that noise and also maximize speed, you should turn your torso a bit to the direction you want to go in order to allow your legs to move more forwards than to the sides as that will cause them to not scrape each other, however, remember to tuck the shoulder that is opposite to the direction you are moving back to the wall to reduce how much you stick out.
Reversing is simple and easy for the simple and easy method, just look to the other direction and do the same thing but with the roles of the legs reversed, for the more complex method you have two options, you can just do everything in reverse, good if you want to keep looking at the direction opposite to where you're moving towards, or you can turn your body to the other side and just move normally to that direction, this latter method is faster and less complicated so has less chances of you committing some mistake that makes noise.
But what if you can't see? Maybe it's way too dark or you want to look at another direction different from where you're going. Then you should use the hand that is closer to the direction you are going to scout ahead by lightly tapping the wall with your fingertips for potential problems.
Extra notes:
I've started to also train stealth walking forwards in a less weird way, by first planting the back of my shoe and then progressively rolling the rest of it forwards until it's entirely on the ground. I think the previous problems I had with this method were because of a lack of body control that would cause me to hit the back of the shoe on the ground too fast making a thumping noise or hitting the ground at an angle, cause the shoe to slide and make a scraping noise, the other method probably forced me to be more careful due to the fear of making a mistake and breaking my ankle. This has been very useful for wall movement as the more complex method of moving greatly improves if you step with the leg closer to the wall back first and with the other side first.
Pain. Both movement methods cause pain. The simple one causes it on your neck due to looking way too much to the side in order to see where you're going and also on the side leg muscles due to having to repeatedly lift them mostly by themselves without much support from the stronger front and back leg muscles. The complex method causes it on your shoulder due to having to constantly force it back. Pain.
End of notes.
That is it for standing wall movement, next is stealth running, should take about a week to train it to a good level but the report will probably only come out later because I may have to travel.
End of blogpost.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
I've done stealth running, time to share.
But before we begin, I must talk about our sponsor talk about what the goal of stealth running is. Previously I've stated that it would be moving at the speed of a normal walk but with less noise, however, at this point I can already stealth walk very close to the speed of a normal walk while making very little noise and it doesn't look like I'm running or something like that, so I've decided to alter the goal to moving at the speed of a jog/light run while making as much sound as a normal walk.
The first thing I wanted to know was just how attainable my goal was, so I downloaded a decibel meter on my phone that recorded the peak decibel reading reached and ran some tests.
First test.
Test conditions: End of the first or second day of training/experimentation, dead of night, closed windows and doors, phone positioned upright (made sure not to obstruct anything important) on top of table in the middle of the movement trajectory, after movement I stealth walked back to the phone, test was rerun if anything went wrong (a car playing loud music going by or me performing the technique incorrectly, for example).
Test results:
Full speed run: 73DB
Light run: 63DB
Normal walk: 48DB
Stealth walk: At or under background noise, which was around 20DB
Stealth run (simple): 51DB
Test note: Other stealth run variations were tested, such as running with the tip of my shoes, with the sides and an overly complicated method, but they all had similar results (except tip, that one was terrible) so I chose the simple method as it was the most stable (so, no chance of me spraining my ankle because I've stepped way too much to the side).
Second test.
Test conditions: End of one of the last days of training, dead of night, open windows and doors, phone positioned upright (made sure not to obstruct anything important) on top of table in the middle of the movement trajectory, after movement I stealth walked back to the phone, test was rerun if anything went wrong (a car playing loud music going by or me performing the technique incorrectly, for example).
Test results:
Full speed run: 68DB
Light run: 54DB
Normal walk: 49DB
Stealth walk: At or under background noise, which was around 35DB
Stealth run (simple): 45DB
Test note: Due to windows and doors being open the sound of movement was perceived by the phone as quieter and the background noise as louder, as well as other possible inaccuracies.
After doing the first test and seeing it was possible I felt confident about continuing with the training.
As for how to do it, it's actually pretty simple, I mean, I did choose the simple method after all, but the first thing doesn't actually have to do with how you step, but how you stand, you must slightly bend your knees, I'm pretty sure this helps with shock absorption, limiting the impact your foot makes when touching the ground with every step, thus limiting noise. Now how you step, you must step with the back of your shoes and "roll" the sole, passing by the center, all the way to the front, then you step and do the same with the other foot, but don't raise the foot too much otherwise the impact will be too strong and more noisy, but don't raise too little otherwise you will scrape the ground and also be more noisy, keep repeating and now you're moving, repeat fast and now you're moving fast, but not as loudly as it would be if you were just jogging, do it slower and it will be quieter, do it faster and it will be louder, if you wish to stop make sure to slow down otherwise all that movement energy will be transferred to the ground in the form of a heavy step, use as you see fit, that's basically it.
Speaking of uses, you could use this for faster movement when you can get away with it, maybe there is some sort of sound cover, like strong winds, loud music, a plane flying overhead, things like that, or maybe your opponent is far away and won't hear something as loud as this. Faster movement can give you things like allowing you to reach a certain piece of cover or maybe lowering how much time you're out in the open when moving from one piece of cover to the other while an opponent faces away from you but that can look back at any moment, maybe you're running out of time to reach a certain area but still need to be a bit careful, who knows?
I'd say it's good to train this (or any other useful technique for that matter) because even though you might be able to do a pretty good short burst from the beginning, you will not be consistent, and it would be terrible to commit even a minor mistake when you need this technique the most. Training will refine you and help you stop committing easily avoidable mistakes.
How to train this? Just (stealth) run around! Try to find different types of floor to run on, run different paths with different curves, run short bursts or for longer, just run!
Extra notes:
Like some other movement techniques, floor type matters. Smooth floor is pretty forgiving with scraping, but because it's usually found inside structures it's not too forgiving with strong impacts. Asphalt like flooring is usually found outside so it's pretty forgiving with strong impacts, but it will be pretty loud if you scrape it.
Like other step centric techniques, it's probably pretty shoe dependent, I've only tested with one, what works for my shoes might not work for yours.
Slow down when making sharp turns, your forehead will thank you.
End of notes.
That's it for stealth running and the end of this blogpost. Up next: Pain. agony. suffering.
But before we begin, I must talk about our sponsor talk about what the goal of stealth running is. Previously I've stated that it would be moving at the speed of a normal walk but with less noise, however, at this point I can already stealth walk very close to the speed of a normal walk while making very little noise and it doesn't look like I'm running or something like that, so I've decided to alter the goal to moving at the speed of a jog/light run while making as much sound as a normal walk.
The first thing I wanted to know was just how attainable my goal was, so I downloaded a decibel meter on my phone that recorded the peak decibel reading reached and ran some tests.
First test.
Test conditions: End of the first or second day of training/experimentation, dead of night, closed windows and doors, phone positioned upright (made sure not to obstruct anything important) on top of table in the middle of the movement trajectory, after movement I stealth walked back to the phone, test was rerun if anything went wrong (a car playing loud music going by or me performing the technique incorrectly, for example).
Test results:
Full speed run: 73DB
Light run: 63DB
Normal walk: 48DB
Stealth walk: At or under background noise, which was around 20DB
Stealth run (simple): 51DB
Test note: Other stealth run variations were tested, such as running with the tip of my shoes, with the sides and an overly complicated method, but they all had similar results (except tip, that one was terrible) so I chose the simple method as it was the most stable (so, no chance of me spraining my ankle because I've stepped way too much to the side).
Second test.
Test conditions: End of one of the last days of training, dead of night, open windows and doors, phone positioned upright (made sure not to obstruct anything important) on top of table in the middle of the movement trajectory, after movement I stealth walked back to the phone, test was rerun if anything went wrong (a car playing loud music going by or me performing the technique incorrectly, for example).
Test results:
Full speed run: 68DB
Light run: 54DB
Normal walk: 49DB
Stealth walk: At or under background noise, which was around 35DB
Stealth run (simple): 45DB
Test note: Due to windows and doors being open the sound of movement was perceived by the phone as quieter and the background noise as louder, as well as other possible inaccuracies.
After doing the first test and seeing it was possible I felt confident about continuing with the training.
As for how to do it, it's actually pretty simple, I mean, I did choose the simple method after all, but the first thing doesn't actually have to do with how you step, but how you stand, you must slightly bend your knees, I'm pretty sure this helps with shock absorption, limiting the impact your foot makes when touching the ground with every step, thus limiting noise. Now how you step, you must step with the back of your shoes and "roll" the sole, passing by the center, all the way to the front, then you step and do the same with the other foot, but don't raise the foot too much otherwise the impact will be too strong and more noisy, but don't raise too little otherwise you will scrape the ground and also be more noisy, keep repeating and now you're moving, repeat fast and now you're moving fast, but not as loudly as it would be if you were just jogging, do it slower and it will be quieter, do it faster and it will be louder, if you wish to stop make sure to slow down otherwise all that movement energy will be transferred to the ground in the form of a heavy step, use as you see fit, that's basically it.
Speaking of uses, you could use this for faster movement when you can get away with it, maybe there is some sort of sound cover, like strong winds, loud music, a plane flying overhead, things like that, or maybe your opponent is far away and won't hear something as loud as this. Faster movement can give you things like allowing you to reach a certain piece of cover or maybe lowering how much time you're out in the open when moving from one piece of cover to the other while an opponent faces away from you but that can look back at any moment, maybe you're running out of time to reach a certain area but still need to be a bit careful, who knows?
I'd say it's good to train this (or any other useful technique for that matter) because even though you might be able to do a pretty good short burst from the beginning, you will not be consistent, and it would be terrible to commit even a minor mistake when you need this technique the most. Training will refine you and help you stop committing easily avoidable mistakes.
How to train this? Just (stealth) run around! Try to find different types of floor to run on, run different paths with different curves, run short bursts or for longer, just run!
Extra notes:
Like some other movement techniques, floor type matters. Smooth floor is pretty forgiving with scraping, but because it's usually found inside structures it's not too forgiving with strong impacts. Asphalt like flooring is usually found outside so it's pretty forgiving with strong impacts, but it will be pretty loud if you scrape it.
Like other step centric techniques, it's probably pretty shoe dependent, I've only tested with one, what works for my shoes might not work for yours.
Slow down when making sharp turns, your forehead will thank you.
End of notes.
That's it for stealth running and the end of this blogpost. Up next: Pain. agony. suffering.
- Xanatos
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Re: Blogposting
Pain, agony & suffering, eh? You work at an Amazon warehouse too?
We are all books containing thousands of pages and within each lies an irreparable truth.
What is locked, can be opened. What is hidden, can be found. What is yours... can be mine.
What is locked, can be opened. What is hidden, can be found. What is yours... can be mine.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
![Image](https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/002/147/247/f7b.jpg)
Thank God no! But I have begun training crouched stealth walking, and I don't know why, maybe I didn't drink enough milk as a child, but it's really, really hard! In a low crouch walk I can't even last 5 seconds, in a mid crouch I can last longer, 40 seconds is the max I've been walking in mid, not because it's my limit but just how long it takes for me to get to the end of where I set as the practice area, even then, I have to stop for about 2 minutes to take back my breath and regain the strength in my legs. Haven't practiced high crouch walk yet so no data on that. Only practiced walking forwards for now.
I really don't know why this is happening, I go to the gym, I lift a mid tier amount of weight with my legs, with a lot of reps and sets too! How come my ability to endure crouch walking be so bad!? Is this normal? Is there any way to enhance the endurance of my legs that is more effective than continuing to practice crouch walking? What about cardio? To improve it is it better to run for shorter periods or to walk for longer periods? So many questions, and this is only the first day of training.
Time until the next blogbost? I don't know, I hope that it takes at most a month to get good, I haven't had much difficulty with making it silent, although I still need to figure out what step technique to use, but I can most definitely see that the greatest hurdle to surpass will be a lack of endurance.
- Xanatos
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Re: Blogposting
To be fair, you're not moving when you squat at the gym. Shifting your weight & balance laterally takes more effort, especially for a prolonged period of time.
We are all books containing thousands of pages and within each lies an irreparable truth.
What is locked, can be opened. What is hidden, can be found. What is yours... can be mine.
What is locked, can be opened. What is hidden, can be found. What is yours... can be mine.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
I gotta say, this is probably the first time I have ever been kinda happy for having to do an essay, probably because the phase before it was pretty painful and now it's kind of over, "kind of" because in the future I'll still do the revisions of it, but still, a major step.
I should probably begin by saying that it isn't as hard as it was when I first started training this, I mean, it's still hard, but not 5 seconds max in a low crouch hard, in fact, throughout all the training groups I've already done I have noticed a repeating pattern, that of being really bad on the first day of practicing something then having major improvements on the second day, really interesting, no clue why this happens though.
Anyway, let's talk of technique proper.
The High Crouch: Not too much of a crouch, it's more like a getting lower, but too low. Bend your knees a little, push your hips back and lower your back but without bending your spine so that you can still look forward without straining your neck too much, additionally, to achieve better balance you can bend your elbows at 90 degrees so that your hands are along the front of the line between your chest and stomach, one thing you definitely should do is put your feet at a fighting stance, so one a bit in front of the other, the one further back pointed a bit off to the side and space them out a bit more than normal. Do all of this and you should be 3/4 of your original size. How much does that help? I dunno.
Aside from the obvious of traversing cover maybe you could use this when you're sneaking just behind an opponent to take him out and need to make yourself smaller in case he looks a bit to the sides or to conceal your shadow from him.
Moving On A High Crouch: It's really simple, just a redo of regular stealth walking but on this stance, with the only update being that now I have learned to walk forwards by stepping with the back outer portion of my shoe first touching the ground then rolling the rest of the shoe in, before I struggled with doing this due to poor motor coordination on my feet, so I'd usually hit the ground too hard, other than that, really just a redo so I won't talk more about it here.
The Mid Crouch: A actual proper crouch and a direct evolution of the high crouch... Or is it devolution, because we're getting lower? Bend your knees a bit more, push your hips back a bit more and lower your back a bit more but while still keeping it straight or mostly straight, do the same things to achieve better balance, and... that's it! With this you should be a bit lower than 3/4 of your original size. How much does that help? Probably the same stuff from the high crawl but a bit more... or less actually since it's about getting lower.
Moving On A Mid Crouch: Almost the same as before, but now I wouldn't recommend moving to the sides by using the technique where your legs cross each other because it's too hard to maintain sufficient balance.
The Low Crouch: The lowest of the crouches. Put your feet at a fighting stance but without spacing them out more than normal and lower yourself until you are sitting on the heel of the back foot, no need to lower your back any more than it was on a mid crouch, again, without curving your spine too much, your hands are kept free, that's it. This is a pretty stable position, so stable in fact that when on a high or mid crouch you should revert to this position if you're just going to stay in place for longer than a few seconds, provided you aren't being seen when doing the transition of course, it's much less tiring than keeping a high or mid crouch, but you will still eventually get tired, in that case, just switch out to sit on the heel of the other foot. This should get you to almost half your original size. How much does that help? Again, probably similar stuff to the other two, but at this point it's so slow and difficult to move that I question if it wouldn't be better to just go for something like a high crawl, only thing that I can think off at the moment would be that it would take longer to get up to other stances, but other than that I imagine it's much less tiring, more stable and possibly quicker, but I haven't moved on a high crawl before so I don't really know if any of that is true.
Moving On A Low Crouch: To move forwards, you transfer your weight and sit on your lead leg, then move the back leg forwards, transfer your weight and sit on it, move the other leg forwards, keep repeating until you reach the position you want to reach, then revert back to the standard low crouch. To move to the sides, well, if it's just a single movement, kind of like an adjustment to your position, then it's determined by what side you wish to move to, if it's the side of the lead foot just reach out with the lead foot leg, position it on the ground, transfer your weight there and bring the back foot leg to that position, then sit on the back foot leg's heel again, if you wish to move to the back foot leg's side then you must transfer your weight to the lead foot leg's side, reach out with the back foot leg, position it on the ground, transfer your weight back to it, then bring the lead foot leg to that position, if it's more than a single movement then I'd recommend changing your stance to a Slav squat (for more information on Slav squatting, watch this video: https://youtu.be/2-8gsWZqDBM) and adapting the no leg crossing side walking technique to the Slav squat position, alternatively, you could change your facing 90 degrees and move to the sides by moving forwards and I find that to be much less tiring. As for moving backwards, I have found no good way to do that, you are much better off just changing your facing so that you move backwards by moving to the sides or moving backwards by moving forwards. I will not elaborate on how to change your facing as I think that at this point it's intuitive enough to not warrant an explanation. All of this is very dependent on your balance.
Now for a section that is really, really important, how to train this. On a strategic level, as in hours and days, you must not exceed two hours of active training per day, you must train at most one day and give your knees some rest on the other, maybe even more days of rest, not doing this will give you quite a lot of knee pain, I can only hope my knees will recover. On the tactical level, as in minutes and seconds, I have divided training time in a ratio of ten to five, ten minutes of training and five minutes of resting, however, if you get tired during training time, don't stop the clock, let it run while you rest, your body needs time to adapt and the time you spend resting during training time is both a good indicator on how you are progressing and a much needed barrier to stop you from overworking yourself, at the start I spent half the training time actually training and the other half resting. If you do leg exercises at the gym, count it as a training day, cardio does not count as a leg exercise unless it's something like going up stairs.
![Image](https://nightops.net/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=1116&sid=cc00994ea9bf337c076aded0418f775b)
This is one of the few situations where hard work does not pay and will be inefficient by making you have to wait many days to continue training due to knee pains, enjoy!
Extra notes:
The lower you go, the slower you go.
On the low crouch it would probably benefit my balance a lot to put my hands on the ground in order to provide extra support and balance, but in virtue of the possibility that in an actual op I may be carrying something in my hands I think it's better to not rely on that, at least not while training.
I have put as an objective of this movement group to be able to "Change between crouched and standing while standing still and while walking" but it's so easy and intuitive I'm not even sure why I put this as a requirement, so I won't give instructions on that.
For some reason, things that are easy and intuitive are really hard to describe and explain.
End of notes.
Well, that was it for crouched movement. I originally wanted to leave the combat oriented skill groups for last as a motivator to keep me going, but I think I'll have to use them as resting periods because I left all the crouch intensive groups for last, so for the next group I'm probably going to do basic shooting, but in preparation for the basic melee group I would like to ask if any of you guys have any knife recommendations. Yes, I have used the search function to look for a topic on knives and have read the topic, but the last post there is more than 10 years old and quite a lot may have changed so I think it's okay to ask again here.
End of blogpost.
I should probably begin by saying that it isn't as hard as it was when I first started training this, I mean, it's still hard, but not 5 seconds max in a low crouch hard, in fact, throughout all the training groups I've already done I have noticed a repeating pattern, that of being really bad on the first day of practicing something then having major improvements on the second day, really interesting, no clue why this happens though.
Anyway, let's talk of technique proper.
The High Crouch: Not too much of a crouch, it's more like a getting lower, but too low. Bend your knees a little, push your hips back and lower your back but without bending your spine so that you can still look forward without straining your neck too much, additionally, to achieve better balance you can bend your elbows at 90 degrees so that your hands are along the front of the line between your chest and stomach, one thing you definitely should do is put your feet at a fighting stance, so one a bit in front of the other, the one further back pointed a bit off to the side and space them out a bit more than normal. Do all of this and you should be 3/4 of your original size. How much does that help? I dunno.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Moving On A High Crouch: It's really simple, just a redo of regular stealth walking but on this stance, with the only update being that now I have learned to walk forwards by stepping with the back outer portion of my shoe first touching the ground then rolling the rest of the shoe in, before I struggled with doing this due to poor motor coordination on my feet, so I'd usually hit the ground too hard, other than that, really just a redo so I won't talk more about it here.
The Mid Crouch: A actual proper crouch and a direct evolution of the high crouch... Or is it devolution, because we're getting lower? Bend your knees a bit more, push your hips back a bit more and lower your back a bit more but while still keeping it straight or mostly straight, do the same things to achieve better balance, and... that's it! With this you should be a bit lower than 3/4 of your original size. How much does that help? Probably the same stuff from the high crawl but a bit more... or less actually since it's about getting lower.
Moving On A Mid Crouch: Almost the same as before, but now I wouldn't recommend moving to the sides by using the technique where your legs cross each other because it's too hard to maintain sufficient balance.
The Low Crouch: The lowest of the crouches. Put your feet at a fighting stance but without spacing them out more than normal and lower yourself until you are sitting on the heel of the back foot, no need to lower your back any more than it was on a mid crouch, again, without curving your spine too much, your hands are kept free, that's it. This is a pretty stable position, so stable in fact that when on a high or mid crouch you should revert to this position if you're just going to stay in place for longer than a few seconds, provided you aren't being seen when doing the transition of course, it's much less tiring than keeping a high or mid crouch, but you will still eventually get tired, in that case, just switch out to sit on the heel of the other foot. This should get you to almost half your original size. How much does that help? Again, probably similar stuff to the other two, but at this point it's so slow and difficult to move that I question if it wouldn't be better to just go for something like a high crawl, only thing that I can think off at the moment would be that it would take longer to get up to other stances, but other than that I imagine it's much less tiring, more stable and possibly quicker, but I haven't moved on a high crawl before so I don't really know if any of that is true.
Moving On A Low Crouch: To move forwards, you transfer your weight and sit on your lead leg, then move the back leg forwards, transfer your weight and sit on it, move the other leg forwards, keep repeating until you reach the position you want to reach, then revert back to the standard low crouch. To move to the sides, well, if it's just a single movement, kind of like an adjustment to your position, then it's determined by what side you wish to move to, if it's the side of the lead foot just reach out with the lead foot leg, position it on the ground, transfer your weight there and bring the back foot leg to that position, then sit on the back foot leg's heel again, if you wish to move to the back foot leg's side then you must transfer your weight to the lead foot leg's side, reach out with the back foot leg, position it on the ground, transfer your weight back to it, then bring the lead foot leg to that position, if it's more than a single movement then I'd recommend changing your stance to a Slav squat (for more information on Slav squatting, watch this video: https://youtu.be/2-8gsWZqDBM) and adapting the no leg crossing side walking technique to the Slav squat position, alternatively, you could change your facing 90 degrees and move to the sides by moving forwards and I find that to be much less tiring. As for moving backwards, I have found no good way to do that, you are much better off just changing your facing so that you move backwards by moving to the sides or moving backwards by moving forwards. I will not elaborate on how to change your facing as I think that at this point it's intuitive enough to not warrant an explanation. All of this is very dependent on your balance.
Now for a section that is really, really important, how to train this. On a strategic level, as in hours and days, you must not exceed two hours of active training per day, you must train at most one day and give your knees some rest on the other, maybe even more days of rest, not doing this will give you quite a lot of knee pain, I can only hope my knees will recover. On the tactical level, as in minutes and seconds, I have divided training time in a ratio of ten to five, ten minutes of training and five minutes of resting, however, if you get tired during training time, don't stop the clock, let it run while you rest, your body needs time to adapt and the time you spend resting during training time is both a good indicator on how you are progressing and a much needed barrier to stop you from overworking yourself, at the start I spent half the training time actually training and the other half resting. If you do leg exercises at the gym, count it as a training day, cardio does not count as a leg exercise unless it's something like going up stairs.
This is one of the few situations where hard work does not pay and will be inefficient by making you have to wait many days to continue training due to knee pains, enjoy!
Extra notes:
The lower you go, the slower you go.
On the low crouch it would probably benefit my balance a lot to put my hands on the ground in order to provide extra support and balance, but in virtue of the possibility that in an actual op I may be carrying something in my hands I think it's better to not rely on that, at least not while training.
I have put as an objective of this movement group to be able to "Change between crouched and standing while standing still and while walking" but it's so easy and intuitive I'm not even sure why I put this as a requirement, so I won't give instructions on that.
For some reason, things that are easy and intuitive are really hard to describe and explain.
End of notes.
Well, that was it for crouched movement. I originally wanted to leave the combat oriented skill groups for last as a motivator to keep me going, but I think I'll have to use them as resting periods because I left all the crouch intensive groups for last, so for the next group I'm probably going to do basic shooting, but in preparation for the basic melee group I would like to ask if any of you guys have any knife recommendations. Yes, I have used the search function to look for a topic on knives and have read the topic, but the last post there is more than 10 years old and quite a lot may have changed so I think it's okay to ask again here.
End of blogpost.
- Mr. Edgyman
- Member
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Thu Nov 18, 2021 2:24 pm
- Contact:
Re: Blogposting
Shooting done. Well, for now at least. Time to share what I've learned, but before that some disclaimers.
This blogpost will have a very different structure when compared to other blogposts. Whereas the other ones usually just focus on the movements themselves and not much else this one will have a nuclear bomb of knowledge about guns. The idea being that you could send this to someone who barely knows what end of a gun the bullet comes off and by the end of it that person will have at least a decent basic understanding of guns. It is long and extensive despite being basic because it's a really, really large topic. I just felt like it wouldn't be complete without it being like this. When I eventually translate everything to video format I will also make an abridged version that follows the more usual and simple structure.
This guide will use a lot of broad terms like "generally", "in general", "usually", "most", "sometimes", because there are exceptions to everything and I don't want some guy on my ear saying "Actually this obscure gun from 1966 doesn't match up your description therefore all you wrote is incorrect".
I am not a police or military guy, but I am parroting what those guys say as well as very well informed civilians and the sources for everything (that I am capable of remembering and finding again) will be at the end of this blogpost, unless it's something obvious like saying pistols are small, I don't think I need a source for that.
We will be using a lot of technical terms, if you find something that you don't understand and that isn't explained look it up on the internet otherwise we will be here all day.
This guide IS about real firearms, but we will also be talking about other things as well for reasons that will be explained later.
This guide will mostly focus on pistols but will also give some tips for long guns as well.
Now, finally, let's begin.
Shooting is pretty simple and easy to learn, at least for me, but it can be very expensive if you don't know how to train it efficiently as it takes a lot of repetition to get good at it. Fortunately, dry firing exists. It consists of training without using actual ammunition. You can use an empty firearm, a non firing replica like a blue gun, a firing replica like an airsoft gun and some other options that I will only briefly talk about due to not having experience with. Dry firing is also good because it lets you train at the convenience of your own home, thus making it easier for you to train and that brings more frequent training.
Let's take a look at our options for dry firing, from least expensive to most expensive. Additionally, for the purposes of simplifying things nearly all of the options allow you to train some elements of gun safety, handling and certain aspects of precision shooting, so none of this will be repeated.
Low end blue gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, target transition and that's about it. It's very limited due to usually having non functioning triggers, safety, magazines and overall being just a piece of plastic shaped like a gun. Weight is usually very light and unrealistic. I would highly recommend giving it a pass and saving money for something else.
Spring airsoft gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, (some) precision shooting, target transition, reloading, (some) malfunction resolution and (some) force on force. It won't let you train follow up shots due to requiring you to manually cycle it. It's precision is rather poor due to it's low FPS thus requiring lighter BBs, however, you could compensate this by making the targets smaller and getting closer to them. You can rack the slide so you could train some malfunction resolutions but they are usually very fragile so I would recommend against it. It's also not very good for force on force training as due to all it's disadvantages taking it to an airsoft field would probably result in you getting trashed throughout the entire game. Weight is usually very light and unrealistic as well. I would say this is the first viable option, if you are really short on money but really want to start getting some reps in, it's a reasonable choice, but I'd still recommend you to save some more money for something better.
Mid end blue gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, target transition, reloading and malfunction resolution. You can train supporting skills fairly well but it's lacking on the main skills due to their inability to shoot. Weight is still too light and unrealistic. I would skip it if I were you, but maybe you could pair it up with an airsoft gun to mutually cover some of their flaws.
High end blue gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, (some) precision shooting, target transition, reloading and malfunction resolution. It may seem like a pretty complete package until you consider that these ones usually fire a laser from it's barrel and that's what gives it some capacity to train precision shooting, problem is that after that laser is gone you no longer have a way to verify your hits on target and that's very detrimental to drills that require multiple shots. Weight is again too light and unrealistic. I'd skip it.
Electric airsoft gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, precision shooting, target transition, (some) reloading and force on force. Electric airsoft guns usually have non reciprocating slides so you will be unable to train for malfunctions, their magazines sometimes are of a different, thinner shape than the ones of a real gun due to how their internals work, but you should be able to practice reloading regardless. Their weight is quite similar to the one of a real firearm, but still a little bit on the lighter side. This was my choice as it provides most of what I wanted while still being relatively cheap.
Gas blowback airsoft gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, precision shooting, target transition, reloading, malfunction resolution, (some) recoil mitigation and force on force. The most notable thing about this one is the recoil, it's nice to be able to get a bit used to it but you have to keep in mind that it still doesn't come close to the recoil of a real firearm, still nice to have though. The weight is usually very close to the one of a real firearm. The price of the gun itself is usually very similar to an electric one, but the magazines are more expensive and they require gas to run instead of just BBs like electric ones so that extra cost will start to stack up because we will be firing thousands of rounds. The gas also makes them a bit louder. If I was a little more well off I would have bought one, I will probably sell the electric one in the future and upgrade to a GBB.
Empty firearm:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, target transition, reloading and malfunction resolution. It's pretty much an overpriced mid end blue gun with the advantage of being an actual gun that if necessary you can actually use. The weight is obviously of a real firearm, it is one! For the pure purposes of training it isn't a good option as you could get most benefits of it with a mid end blue gun, however, you could upgrade it with the next option.
Empty firearm + laser firing device:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, (some) precision shooting, target transition, reloading and malfunction resolution. Now it's pretty much an overpriced high end blue gun! Talk about diminishing returns. These laser firing devices often take the shape of a fake bullet that fires a laser when the striker hits a button where the primer would usually be, could also take the form of a part of the gun that fires a laser that replaces some other part. Weight is again the one of a real firearm. It is very nice to be able to train with your real gun but it still lacks the ability to train certain things that even an electric airsoft gun would. If you don't have a real firearm and you feel like you will need one soon while somehow only having the money for it, then sure go for it, but if you just need to train I'd say get something else.
Realistic training guns and conversion kits:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, precision shooting, target transition, reloading, malfunction resolution, (some) recoil mitigation and force on force. These take the form of things like the UNIT4 training rifles or MTX training ammo that is fed on real firearms with conversion kits to run them. The recoil can get very, very close to the real thing on rifles but not so much for pistols. Keep in mind however that when it comes to force on force I don't think many airsoft fields would let you use what is essentially a paintball gun, but paintball fields maybe will. The weight is that of a real firearm. It's pretty much like a GBB airsoft gun but with additional recoil, precision and range. If you have lots of money and don't care about that addendum about airsoft then sure go for it. These two are grouped together because they are pretty similar on what they do, but dedicated training rifles are obviously cheaper than a real rifle running simunitions.
Now that you have chosen the general category of training gun you wish to use let's take a look at the more common categories of guns that training gun will represent. And remember, generally speaking the larger they get the more expensive they get.
The following is considering the use of regular ammunition unless stated the contrary. For more regular firearms that would be FMJ while for shotguns that would be buckshot. We will go into more detail on the topic of ballistics later on.
Pistols:
In general pistols are semi automatic, small, compact, easily concealable firearms meant for self defense that fire pistol caliber ammunition, in layman's terms a small bullet. They are good at close range and struggle with anything past that. They are usually unable to pierce soft body armor. Their ability to pierce materials is also rather low. In airsoft I'd recommend you to stick to fields or areas of fields that are focused on close range as airsoft guns are very limited in regards to range and most airsoft pistols are specially affected by this, therefore you will have a very bad day at longer engagement ranges. There are also machine pistols that are basically pistols but those have the capability to fire in fully automatic, full auto pistols are usually very difficult to control.
I highly, highly recommend you to choose a pistol as your initial training and learning platform. Why? Well, things that have a third point of contact with your body, usually a stock that goes up against the area of your chest that borders your shoulder, are much easier to shoot, but good rifle skills usually don't easily translate into good pistol skills. Pistol skills however, are easily transferred to other weapon systems. If you are capable of shooting well with a pistol you will easily learn how to shoot well with for example a rifle because you have gotten good at shooting with a platform that requires you to truly understand and be good at the fundamentals of shooting. Additionally, the characteristics of pistols are much more suited for the general focus of these series of guides and tutorials, that being stealth.
Revolvers:
In general revolvers are single, double or single and double action hybrids, small or somewhat small, compact or somewhat compact, easily or somewhat easily concealable firearms meant for self defense that fire pistol caliber ammunition or larger pistol caliber ammunition, in layman's terms a small bullet or a big small bullet. They are ok at close range and struggle with anything past that. They usually struggle to penetrate soft body armor. Their ability to pierce materials is the same as pistols for the smaller ones or a bit more than pistols for the larger ones. They may seem a lot like pistols until you consider they have a very small capacity when compared to most modern pistols, typically 5 to 8 rounds, 6 in most, compare this to the capacity of modern pistols that's usually at least 12 and you can see that revolvers are an obsolete weapon system. Also very slow to reload if you don't have a speed loader. If you do pick this and go to something like airsoft you will very quickly see how outclassed you are. All of this and they are usually less customizable than pistols. Just get a pistol bro.
Pistol caliber carbines:
In general pistol caliber carbines are semi automatic, sort of small, sort of compact, not so easily concealable firearms meant for self defense that fire pistol caliber ammunition. They excel at close range and do begin to struggle at anything past it but they have quite a bit more range than pistols due to having a stock and longer barrel. Their ability to penetrate armor is similar to pistols but a bit better, sometimes able to pierce soft body armor due to longer barrels that provide higher velocities. Their ability to penetrate materials is also pretty similar to pistols. In airsoft you can expect this to have the range of assault rifles as they are large enough to fit their internals, however, you will struggle to find a proper pistol caliber carbine as most things in airsoft that can be full auto will be full auto, but you can simulate it by only using semi auto, otherwise it's basically an SMG. Speaking of which.
Submachine guns:
A submachine gun is pretty much the same as a pistol caliber carbine but full auto and meant for assaulting positions at close range. I decided to make them separate categories as PCCs are usually operated by civilians while SMGs are usually operated by military and police. Or at least they used to be operated by them. You see, body armor kind of made them obsolete because they struggle to pierce them, they were then replaced by a similar weapon concept known as de Personal Defense Weapon. Once again speaking of which.
Personal defense weapons:
A PDW is pretty much a SMG but with some altered characteristics. It was born during the cold war when NATO feared soviet paratroopers falling behind their lines and wrecking havoc on rear echelon troops and logistics units, they wanted to equip those guys as well as tank crews with something portable but easier to use and with more range than a pistol that was also capable of piercing body armor that the paratroopers would probably be using, from this the PDW concept was born and gave us weapons such as the MP7 and P90. Although it has "defense" in it's name and was born out of a defensive need it is still functionally a SMG with better armor piercing capabilities and is not uncommonly used as such by police and sometimes military. However, their better armor piercing capabilities only manifest themselves when using armor piercing rounds that are usually only available to the police and military, without them it has almost the same armor piercing capabilities of a SMG or PCC. If you wish to easily and consistently be able to pierce soft body armor with regular commercially available ammunition I'd recommend taking a look at the next weapon category.
Semi auto rifles:
In general semi auto rifles are, well, obviously semi automatic, varied in size, compactness and concealability meant for many different purposes and fire intermediate caliber ammunition, in layman's terms, a medium bullet. They are good at close and medium ranges and will struggle past that. They are usually capable of piercing soft body armor. They are usually capable of piercing quite a lot of materials, but still not capable of piercing things like most brick or cinder block walls. As you can see, they vary a lot, that's because of the many different configurations they can be outfitted with. Being semi auto reflects their civilian nature, the AR15 is probably the most famous example of a semi auto rifle. They are also often referred to as "carbines". In airsoft, you will have the same problem and solution as with a PCC, that being of a lack of semi only rifles, so just take a select fire rifle and use it on semi only. Speaking of select fire.
Select fire rifles:
In general select fire rifles are pretty much the same thing as semi auto rifles but this time they allow you to choose between semi, full and sometimes burst fire modes. They are mostly only available for police and military in most countries. Riflemen are the bulk of combat troops in most armies as they are easy to learn and fair well in most situations infantry may encounter on a war. They are also often called "assault rifles" but the shorter ones are usually called "carbines" as well. If you don't want to train with a pistol this or their civilian counterparts the semi auto rifles are my second recommendation. In airsoft they will do well in as far as I know all fields.
Battle rifles:
In general battle rifles are semi or select fire, big, not compact, I'd say impossible to conceal on a person, meant to basically be chonkier assault rifles that fire full length rifle ammunition, in layman's terms, a big bullet. They are good at close and excel at medium ranges, with a bit more reach than most assault rifles. They are capable of piercing soft body armor. They can pierce through a lot of material, not a well built brick or concrete wall though. Since the mid cold war they have mostly been replaced by assault rifles, but some armies still keep them as their main rifles or in specific roles.
Designated marksman rifles:
In general DMRs are semi but also sometimes select fire, big or somewhat big, not compact, again I'd say impossible to conceal, meant to fill the engagement ranges that stand between standard assault or battle rifles and sniper rifles. Some fire intermediate caliber others full length. They are usable at close range but truly excel at medium to long ranges. Capable of piercing soft body armor. Material piercing capabilities dependent on caliber, bigger usually more material penetration. They are kind of like battle rifles but truly dedicated to longer ranges. In airsoft they do, well, what they were designed for in reality but with airsoft engagement ranges.
Sniper rifles:
In general sniper rifles are bolt action, big, not compact, once again impossible to conceal on a person, meant to pick off enemies, usually high value targets, at long distances. They fire full length rifle ammunition. Excel at long ranges, not recommended for shorter distances. They are capable of piercing soft armor and some can even pierce some plate armor. They can also pierce through a lot of material. In airsoft, once again it's a case of what they were made to do in reality but with airsoft's limitations on range. I would however recommend you to not use a sniper rifle as your starting airsoft weapon, but if you still want to, make sure not to buy the cheap ones as they are pretty bad. Airsoft sniping is usually good stealth practice though.
Anti material rifles:
In general AMRs are bolt action or semi, enormous, not compact would be an understatement, unconcealable as well, meant for taking out things such as explosives, engines, light vehicles, well, material, but can also be used against personnel as well. They fire... Actually I couldn't find the technical term for it so I'll just say the layman's that being a really BIG bullet. Excel at longer ranges. Are capable of piercing all but the heaviest body armor. Their name already indicates it's material piercing power, not even concrete block walls can withstand it. In airsoft they work pretty much as bulkier DMRs or sniper rifles.
Light machine guns:
In general LMGs are full auto, big, not compact, unconcealable, meant for squad support in activities of attack by suppressing enemies so others can flank them and in defense by holding down areas. Some fire intermediary calibers others fire full length. Usable at close range but excel at medium. Capable of piercing soft body armor. Material capabilities are dependent on caliber, the heavier ones pierce more material. They are mostly only available for the military. In airsoft they operate in a similar manner as reality due to generally being bulky, heavy and reducing mobility.
Shotguns:
In general shotguns are break action, pump action, semi automatic or fully automatic, varied in size, compactness and concealability, usually meant for close range engagements, often in an offensive role. Excel at close range but aren't as limited in that regard as Call of Duty would have you believe. Aren't capable of piercing soft armor. Material piercing capabilities are good, drywall trembles upon the sight of them. Break action shotguns are obsolete for combat purposes at this point. In airsoft they tend to work like in reality, but again with airsoft's limitations.
Now that you have chosen the general category of gun you wish to train with, let's actually get over to training. Again, this guide is focused on pistols with some tips for long weapons, you will simply use your brain to adapt the contents of this guide for your particular gun and training gun.
Safety:
The first thing you have to train is gun safety. Let's go about the rules of gun safety.
First the four more common ones.
1. Always treat the gun as loaded.
2. Always keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to fire.
3. Never point the gun at anything you don't intend to destroy.
4. Be sure of your target and what's beyond it.
Now additional rules that most people don't mention and are somewhat redundant or heavily affected by context but I still think should be kept in mind.
1. Always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction.
2. Always keep the gun unloaded until you are ready to use it.
3. Learn the mechanical and handling characteristics of the gun you are using.
4. Always use proper ammunition.
5. Be sure the barrel is clear of obstructions before loading and shooting.
6. If your gun fails to fire when the trigger is pulled, hold your shooting position for several seconds then with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, carefully unload the gun.
7. Don't rely on the gun's safety to keep it from firing.
8. Be aware of your surroundings when handling guns so you don't trip or lose your balance and accidentally point and/or fire the gun at anyone or anything.
Of course, some of those things can be relaxed if you are using a training gun, but even then you should keep them in mind regardless.
If your weapon has a manual safety it is highly recommended to keep it on until you are ready to fire, it may be annoying at the start but with training this becomes way less inconvenient. You may say "but a lot of these rules are redundant!" and you would be right, it's meant to be this way, kind of like how planes have multiple redundancies to avoid accidents, it's the same here. If you forgot to activate the safety you kept your finger off the trigger, if you forgot that as well at least you were pointing the weapon at the ground instead of anyone or anything.
Another thing about safety that you must keep in mind is protective equipment. You only have one set of eyes and one set of ears, if they are lost they are lost forever. Use safety glasses, if short on money you can go to a hardware store and get them for cheap. This is relevant for both real firearms and airsoft, if a bullet hits something and fragments fly into your unprotected eyes it's over, same with airsoft, BB ricochets off a wall and goes into your eye it's also over. Wear ear protection, it's quite cheap but this time I'd recommend getting something specifically made with shooting in mind instead of something out of a hardware store. Shoot a real firearm without then and not so slowly but absolutely surely you will lose a good portion of your hearing, in airsoft some fields allow training grenades that explode with a loud boom, too many of those and the same thing will happen. Eye and ear damage is often irreversible, will you take that risk? No? Then use eye and ear protection. Additionally but not so critically when doing force on force with something like airsoft consider using some sort of protection for your mouth, the ammunition may be non lethal for you as a whole but they certainly can be lethal for your teeth. I encourage you to do your own research into eye, ear and mouth protection as there are many options out there.
Stance:
The second thing to work on is your stance as nearly everything else you do flows from it. In a real situation you won't always be able to get on a perfect stance but you should still train it as getting something close to a good stance helps a lot. You are also able to move your legs and get into stance once the situation develops to allow you to do so.
You may notice words like "about" in the following and other paragraphs. That's because everyone has different anatomy so what works for some may not work too well for others. Because of this I think some room should be left for adaptation and you should see certain things that I say more as guidelines. Other things however are very objective and you should strictly follow them.
It begins at your feet. You want to position them in a way that your feet are about aligned with your shoulders. Next you will put one of your foot, usually your non firing leg foot, so the foot opposite to the arm you hold the gun's grip or shoulder the gun with, about a step forwards. The firing leg can work too but I personally found it to feel weird and non intuitive. Obviously you could also put one foot back to achieve the same effect. Next it may have already happened on it's own but the back leg foot will be pointed a bit off to the side away from your body. A BIT off, not too much. Next you want to bend your knees a little to help with overall stability and recoil management. Next is your hips and torso. If you are or are going to be wearing body armor like a plate carrier for example you want to present your plates to the target, this means the plates are facing the target in the way that covers your vitals as much as possible, so you don't want to lean forwards or to the sides, instead you should keep your hips and torso centered with the target and your spine straight. Guys die because they lean forwards in an effort to cushion recoil or "have a more aggressive stance" and end up getting shot in an unarmored vital area that would otherwise be protected if they had used a proper stance. We will talk about the arms and hands portion of stance later, first we gotta reach the gun.
Draw:
Lets go over the drawing process in a simplified way. We will go over the intricacies of the steps later on. Drills and how to train these things will come after all the instructions.
To draw your weapon you must first clear the holster of any obstructions. If it's a concealed holster you must get your clothes out of the way. If it's an outside the waistband holster it may have some sort of mechanical lock to prevent someone from taking the gun away from you when you aren't paying attention. The mechanism may be loud so if you need to do it silently you must figure out what's causing the noise and prevent that from happening in some way. Maybe the button you press releases a spring that pushes whatever blocks the gun's path out of the way really quickly and when it hits something it makes a lot of noise. You can maybe add padding to it or simply hold the blocker when you press the button to ensure that it doesn't hit anything too quickly, that is obviously slow so keep that in mind. With the obstructions out of the way you must grip your gun, make sure it's a good grip as that grip will probably accompany you throughout the engagement. Next you want to pull the gun out of the holster and bring it towards the work zone through the fastest available route while simultaneously deactivating the weapon's manual safety if applicable and also bringing the off hand to the work zone. Next you want to form a two handed grip. Now you must drive the weapon towards your target while prepping the trigger and forming a sight picture. With that done fire the weapon if you deem it necessary.
Of course, that whole process may not be the best in every situation. For example in a scenario where someone is running at you with a knife at very close range you will probably be better off cutting the process to simply drawing the weapon and point shooting with one hand while moving away from the attacker and protecting your neck with your other arm. We will however only cover that longer method of draw as understanding it will give you the basis to figure out other methods by yourself.
The grip:
A good grip on a pistol will be done by holding the weapon as high as possible. "As possible" means without stopping the gun from functioning and without hurting yourself, that slide will reciprocate and you don't want your finger on it's way. To see what a good grip looks like simply do an L shape with your thumb and index finger and slide the corner of that L shape on the pistol's grip as high as the tang/beaver tail will allow you to. Next you want to wrap all your fingers around the the grip, remember to not put your index finger inside the trigger guard unless you want to fire the weapon. As for the strength to be applied to the grip you want to apply as much force as you can without having the sights shake or your trigger finger locking up and preventing you from firing. You want to point at something and have the barrel pointed at that thing as well, almost as if the pistol was a natural extension of your hand and arm. If you have followed these instructions correctly you should have formed a good one handed grip.
The concept of the working zone:
The working zone can be seen as a rectangular box shaped area that begins at the lower part of your chest and goes up to the height of your forehead. It's in this area that you will perform most of the activities related to managing your gun, such as forming a two handed grip, reloading and clearing malfunctions.
The two handed grip:
To form a two handed grip you must lift your firing hand's thumb to make space for the non firing hand. Next in a similar way to how you did an L shape and got under the pistol's tang/beaver tail you will take the non firing hand, make it as if you were going to high five someone but with your thumb sticking out and put your non firing hand's index finger under the trigger guard by about the middle of the finger. Next you want to put your non firing hand's fingers in the grooves of your firing hand's fingers all the way from your index finger to your pinky, the pinky will probably be left in direct contact with the pistol's grip. Next you will wrap the palm of your non firing hand around the exposed part of the pistol's grip. Now finally you will set your thumbs back down. The firing hand's thumb should be on top of the non firing hand, it's last section is now probably touching the first section of your other thumb. Your two handed grip should be done now.
The arms and hands portion of stance:
When lining up your shot you want to align your pistol's sights with your target and with your eyes, however, you want to bring the sights to your eyes not the other way around. Another thing to watch out for is to not fully extend your arms when aiming down the sights. You want a slight curve provided by slightly bending your elbows, this will help in the future when it comes to shooting while moving as that slight bend will help a lot with shock absorption and other things we will go about later. The last thing to note is that your pistol should be about aligned with the center vertical line of your body.
For long weapons, you will most likely have to move your eyes to your sights by slightly tilting your head. That's because the stock must be positioned in the outer area of your chest that borders your shoulder. You have to do that because, well, any other options will be sub optimal at best and very painful at worst. Putting the stock of a shotgun at the center or your chest or at your shoulder and firing the gun will ingrain this lesson in your brain in a way you will never forget.
Sight alignment:
When it comes to sight alignment we will be mostly talking about iron sights as red dots are extremely simple. Simply put the dot on top of your target and press the trigger without disturbing the dot and that's pretty much it. I mean, provided they are zeroed and I will not be talking about how to zero a red dot as there are guides out there that can do the job way better than I can. If your iron sights are adjustable then they also need to be zeroed, that is more of a rifle thing however, pistols rarely have adjustable iron sights.
The first thing you must do is find out what eye is your dominant eye, that is, the eye your brain gives preference to most of the times when both of your eyes can see the same thing. To do that simply take your hands and use your thumbs and index fingers to make a triangle shape. Next pick a point of some thing that's about 3 to 5 meters away. Now look at that point and put the triangle shape on top of the point in a way that the point is at the center of the shape. Now close one of your eyes. If the point is still at the center of the shape then the eye that is open is your dominant eye and the one that's closed is your non dominant eye. If the point is no longer at the center of the shape then the eye that is open is your non dominant eye and the one that's closed is your dominant eye. If your dominant hand is at the same side as your dominant eye you are regular eye dominant. If your dominant hand is not at the same side as your dominant eye you are cross eye dominant.
This is important because we want to shoot with both eyes open, it's too much of a disadvantage to lose half of your field of vision when shooting and because of that we must do as stated before and bring the sights to the eye but it has to be the correct eye, your dominant eye.
With pistols it's pretty easy to counter cross eye dominance, you will simply hold the pistol with your dominant hand and bring it to your dominant eye. Additionally you can also slightly turn your head to the gripping hand's direction in order to better centralize everything. Do not tilt the pistol to bring it to your dominant eye as that will make it not leveled and that makes recoil harder to control.
With long weapons on the other hand you will have some options, all of them with a bad side. You can use dominant hand and non dominant eye, but then you lose some visual acuity. You can use non dominant hand and dominant eye, but then you lose some ability to handle the weapon. You can use dominant hand and close the dominant eye when you're going to shoot but then you lose some field of view. I'd say use the first option for extremely close ranges and use the last option for longer engagements.
If you have cross eye dominance do not feel discouraged to learn shooting. I myself have cross eye dominance and I don't see it as much of a problem.
With that out of the way let's actually talk about sight alignment. It is often said a image is worth a 1000 words, I'd say even more words in this case, so we will be using images a lot in this section.
![Image](https://nightops.net/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=1130)
While shooting with both eyes open your sight picture should look something like this. It takes a while to get used to it so take your time.
![Image](https://nightops.net/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=1131)
You want to be able to consistently bring the sights to your eyes and already have them properly aligned or at the very least requiring minimal adjustment. It may be very hard at the start but with time and practice you'll get there.
![Image](https://nightops.net/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=1132)
Get the alignment wrong and you'll struggle to hit your targets.
![Image](https://nightops.net/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=1133)
You want to focus on your front sight. The target should be blurry. Front sight focus makes the entire process of aiming easier in many ways. Most pistols these days already come with some sort of dot in the front and rear sights, if yours doesn't have it you may want to put something in your sights like tape or paint as aiming in general can be quite difficult if you're trying to align black sights on a black target. Front sight focus can be difficult at first but again with time and practice you'll get better at it. Make sure you are actually focusing on the front sight and not merely looking at it.
Breathing control:
![Image](https://nightops.net/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=1134)
For very precise shots without much time pressure you might want to consider holding your breath for extra stability. In open combat however you want to breathe normally throughout your engagement as the extra few seconds you take to hold your breath can mean your enemy hitting you before you hit them. At the start of my training I'd hold my breath to compensate for my lack of skill in other areas, a few weeks later and I didn't even think about breathing.
Trigger management:
![Image](https://nightops.net/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=1135)
Additionally, when pulling the trigger you don't want to "yank" it back, you want to "prep" it. Prepping the trigger means pulling through the trigger's slack, that is, the soft and easy to pull part of the trigger, and reach "the wall". The wall is the part of the trigger where you find the most resistance, after that the weapon will usually fire. When shooting you want to fire from the wall as the opposite to it, just pulling the trigger all the way from the beginning will usually result in poor hits on target at best and total misses at worse due to how you will likely pull the entire pistol down and to the side. You should also avoid changes in how much strength you use on your grip when pulling the trigger as that can also affect your accuracy.
Recoil management:
When a gun fires, most of them will apply force backwards and upwards, that's what's called recoil. Your objective is to control recoil so that it's not as big of a problem as it could be. Fortunately for you the things you have learned in relation to stance and grip already help with that a lot, but you still have to learn how to actively mitigate recoil. After a gun fires the tip of it's barrel will go up, you want to force it back down on target as opposed to just let it fall back on target on it's own. A good way to visualize how that works would be playing a first person shooter game and the difference between pulling the mouse down while firing to keep the sights on target as opposed to just stop firing and letting the sights fall back onto the target to then fire again. The first option allows you to do follow up shots much faster. Additionally, recoil anticipation, so pulling the gun downwards right before firing, is simply missed timing of trying to do active recoil mitigation. In that case you want to train yourself to get the timing right as opposed to get rid of that instinct altogether.
Follow up shots:
Sometimes you may need to take multiple shots one after the other. What you DON'T want to do is fire the gun, handle the recoil, bring the sights back on target and only after that release the trigger, hear the "click" sound of the trigger mechanism resetting and because you heard that click firing another shot. What you DO want to do is to fire the weapon, handle the recoil, bring the sights back to the target and at the same time that you're doing all of that release the trigger to the point the mechanism resets and makes the gun ready to fire again, this means that ideally you never hear the click of the mechanism resetting. If you are incapable of doing in a way you don't hear the click, at the very least you must make sure you're not letting the click dictate when you fire your weapon, you must fire it when you need it to fire, not because you heard the click.
Target transition:
To get your sights from one target to another you will simply repeat the process of acquiring a sight picture to your first target, as in, look at your other target and then bring the sights to your eye. Ideally you have trained enough to the point that your sights are already aligned when brought to your eye. The opposite, to keep the sights aligned with your eye and bring both sights and eye to the next target is not recommended as you will likely pass the target with the sights anyway, also tends to be more sluggish. Additionally, if you are on a proper stance your feet should stay fixed on the ground and your knees, hips, torso, arms and head are the ones that move, unless the other target is beyond your turn radius of course, in that case you should obviously move what's needed to get to the target.
Reloading:
When the time to reload your weapon comes you will have three options, the regular reload, the tactical reload and the emergency reload. The regular reload is accomplished by first taking the spent magazine off the gun, putting it back on your kit, picking from your kit a fresh magazine, inserting the new magazine in the gun and finally racking the slide, bolt or whatever your gun has if necessary. The tactical reload is accomplished by picking from your kit a fresh magazine, with the same hand taking the old magazine out off the gun, putting in the new magazine, taking the old mag back to the kit and finally racking the gun if necessary. The emergency reload is done by removing the spent magazine, letting it drop on the ground, picking up a new one from your kit, inserting it in the weapon and racking the gun if necessary.
The regular reload is also just called "reload". You may want to introduce into your kit a dump pouch, a large open pouch where you just toss in spent magazines so you don't have to struggle with quickly putting them back into your kit, but that isn't strictly necessary.
The tactical reload keeps your weapon down for less time than the regular if done correctly but needs some practice to be effective otherwise it's very probable that you'll just fail and drop the magazines on the ground, it took me 2 or 3 days to get good at it. It can also be called "reload of opportunity" as you usually do it when you have the opportunity. The specific instructions for the technique are hard to understand through text and even image or video format so I'll recommend you to check the drill section for the training app I'll recommend there as it has instructions with video. But if you want something in text, for pistols it basically consists of picking up the magazine as normal, transitioning that magazine to be held by your middle and index fingers, letting the old one fall into and be held by your index and thumb and finally inserting the new mag and pushing it inside utilizing the palm of your hand. Some people do it differently, I do it this way but may change it to another way if I decide it's better. Once again I recommend you do your own research. If done right the tac reload feels kind of like being a crab.
The emergency reload is usually done when the magazine has went empty in the middle of combat, your maximum priority is to get that weapon up again as fast as possible so it is a very fast reload. It's disadvantage is that contrary to the other two previous reloads you leave that magazine on the ground, as well as any ammunition left in it if it still had any. It may also be called "speed reload".
Now some tips that apply or partially apply to all of these reloads. For pistols pick up, insert into the weapon or back into your kit the magazines holding them with your thumb, index and middle fingers doing something akin to a pincer like shape with your hand, with the index at the front, thumb at the back and middle finger holding at the side of the magazine for support, the top of the mag to the outside and the underside of the mag to the hand's side. All your mags should be positioned on your kit in a way that let's you pick them up like this as it let's you easily put the mag into the weapon. Another tip is that modern pistols tend to have a feature that when they run dry the slide will lock to the rear, after you get rid off the old mag and put a fresh one in you will have two options. One option is to rack the slide back and let it fall into place. The other option is to simply press the slide lock button to let the slide fall back into place. I personally prefer to just use the button, but you could rack the slide if you want, however, do let the slide fall back on it's own, not doing so and instead holding it so it slowly falls back into place could result in a malfunction depending on factors like how clean your pistol is or what ammo you are using. On some airsoft pistols using the slide lock button could result in it wearing out due to things related to the materials used to construct the replica, if it does wear out the slide will no longer lock to the rear when out of ammo so in that case I recommend that you just rack the slide so the button isn't damaged. When reloading you want to keep situational awareness, this means that ideally you don't want to look down to reload, so take your pistol and bring it to the work zone and closer to your face while rotating it a bit, not in the center of your vision though, just a bit to the side, this helps line up the magwell with the path of the magazine and also let's you keep some vision and attention towards the target, this is more of a guideline however so if you're tapping your kit trying to find your magazine then actually look at it so you can reload faster instead of starring at your enemy. Last tip is that reloading quickly is nice but when inserting the magazine into the weapon I recommend that you slow down and maybe glance at the magwell as going full speed and not looking will probably result in you missing the magwell and dropping the magazine on the ground making it much slower than just slowing down a bit on that last section.
Malfunctions:
There are three main types of malfunctions you may find on a pistol. A failure to feed, a failure to fire and a failure to eject. These can occur on other types of firearms as well but we'll only be talking about pistols and once again you'll just have to adapt it to your particular firearm.
A failure to feed occurs when you or the pistol have failed to properly chamber a round. You can identify this malfunction by trying to fire a round but only hearing a click instead of a bang or nothing at all along with a usually soft mushy trigger if you have forgotten to even rack the slide. This malfunction can be solved giving a good tap on the magazine to make sure it's properly inserted into the weapon followed by racking the slide.
A failure to fire occurs when a round is chambered properly, the trigger mechanism works as it should but the round itself is a dud, usually a bad primer. It can be identified by once again hearing a click instead of a bang. It can be difficult to differentiate between a failure to feed and a failure to fire, fortunately for you the way of solving it is the same so it doesn't matter that much. Tap the mag and rack the slide, problem solved. It's said the two scariest sounds ever are a click when you should hear a bang and a bang when you should hear a click.
A failure to eject occurs when a round has been fired but the gun has failed to properly throw that round out to make way for a new round. You can identify it by the usually soft mushy trigger and by looking at the chamber and seeing that it's partially open, sometimes even able to see the stuck round in there. To solve it you'll want to lock the slide to the rear, remove the magazine, send the slide back forwards, reinsert the magazine and rack the slide.
A less talked about malfunction is a failure to eject the magazine when pressing the mag release button. This can be a critical problem when trying to reload in the middle of combat. You may not even be able to manually pull off the spent mag as you may have already grabbed a new one with your off hand. Fortunately for you this can also be easily solved by holding the mag release button and at the same time hitting the wrist of the pistol's hand into the inner elbow of your off hand arm, the impact should be enough to throw the spent mag away, from there continue the reload as normal. This can be called "chopping out" the magazine.
Inspection/four corner check:
Inspection or the four corner check is the action of looking and scanning around you to keep situational awareness. It can be done in time intervals, whenever you remember to do it or after some significant action, like moving from one position to another, reloading or ending a threat or group of threats, the idea being to avoid things like hyper focusing only on what's in front of you and end up getting shot or stabbed from behind. It is done by pointing your weapon down and using your knees, hips, torso and neck to turn all the way to one side so you can look behind you, you will then turn as slow as necessary to comprehend what you are seeing and go all the way to the other side, giving you a 360 degrees scan of your situation. Of course, in certain scenarios you won't be able to be slow and methodical, there you may opt to not look at all or look very quickly and just scan for any obvious silhouettes, simply accepting that you may not have seen something you needed to see. I personally do it from right to left but you can do it from left to right if you want, obviously if you have some indication that something may be coming from one side, like a sound for example, you should obviously begin with said side.
Doing it all while crouched:
All of this can be done while crouched with minimal adjustment, we'll only be talking about the crouching stances as the rest you can easily figure out by yourself.
The first crouching stance is a more usual one, it has a taller profile but much more stability. It can be achieved by bending both knees 90 degrees, one in front of your torso the other on the ground, back foot placed as you prefer. The legs are spaced as needed to keep your balance. The torso is kept upright unless you need to have a smaller profile for some reason, hiding behind a piece of cover for example.
The second crouching stance is the low crouch from the blogpost about crouched movement. It's less stable of a platform to shoot but since that is the idle crouched position that you may spend quite a lot of time on you may have to shoot from it at some point. Put your feet at a fighting stance but without spacing them out more than normal and lower yourself until you are sitting on the heel of the back foot, no need to lower your back too much so as to not curve your spine too much. Your hands are kept free.
Drills:
Now for some drills to train all of these skills. Typically the more focused you are on a certain task the faster you will get better at that particular thing. For example, instead of training a whole draw you may want to do some repetitions of simply getting a good grip on your pistol from your holster, then some more repetitions of getting the pistol out of the holster, then some of bringing the pistol to the work zone and getting a two handed grip, that sort of stuff, segmentation of a drill. The problem with that is it tends to become boring rather quickly and because of that it loses it's advantage of focus, so you may want to do some longer stuff as well even if you are just beginning. I will only be giving the instructions for whole drills, if you want to segment their steps feel free to do so. You may also wonder "Should I go for precision or speed?" And well, ideally you should go for both as it doesn't matter if you can unholster and fire your weapon in 0.001 seconds if all your shots miss the target and it also doesn't matter if you can hit the target exactly where you want if it takes 30 seconds to do that. But at the beginning be as slow as necessary and with time and practice you will be able to perform correctly at higher speeds. If you do speed it up and mistakes become a pattern slow down again and correct those mistakes, then try to speed it up again. All drills are to be practiced with proper stance unless stated the contrary. Remember to mark the hits in some way so you don't confuse them with new hits in the future, I used a green sharpie for this and marked the hits with a circle around them. If your training gun has misaligned sights that you know are misaligned because you've got someone who knows how to shoot to test it and got the same results I recommend you to continue aiming the training gun as if that wasn't a problem and when the time comes to check hits you just mentally correct where the impacts would have been if it were not for the crooked sights, you must do this because you don't want to ingrain into your mind to always aim a bit to the sides as when you pick a real gun that instinct will still be there and cause you to miss.
The first drill you should do is simple target shooting so you can train sight alignment and trigger control. Simply load your magazine, form a two handed grip, align your sights with your eye and target and pull the trigger without disturbing the sights. Stop every five rounds or so to check your hits on target and make sure you're not committing some mistake. You can begin with the target at 3 meters and get to longer distances as you improve, this applies to other drills as well so it won't be repeated. If you can't have the target be further away then you could try making the target smaller. Do only this for the first and second day, it gets a bit boring but it really helps you improve. Don't get discouraged if you struggle at first, that is normal. I myself began by taking 10 seconds to properly line up a shot.
The second drill is the short target acquisition drill. Bring your pistol to the aiming line, the imaginary line between your eye and the target, and tilt the pistol's barrel 30 degrees to one of four directions, either up, down, left or right, your objective is to align the sights with the target, fire one round and revert back to the tilted barrel position so you can do it again. Pick a direction and do at least 10 repetitions on that tilt so you can build muscle memory. Remember to keep your finger off the trigger when not in the process of aligning the sights with the target, specially when the barrel is pointed upwards.
The third drill you should train is the longer target acquisition drill. Get into stance and from low or high ready bring the sights to be aligned with your eye and target and fire one round, then revert back to the initial position so you can do it again. Again, as an end goal you should be able to do this really quickly but at the beginning go as slow as necessary.
The fourth drill is the draw drill. You will begin either in stance or out of stance and try to get onto stance when the drill begins, though I recommend doing the latter only after doing the former a few times. You will unholster your weapon, form a two handed grip, bring the pistol up lining the sights with your eye and target and fire a shot, after that you will re holster your weapon so you can do the drill again.
The fifth drill is the recoil drill. The drill begins with the weapon at the aiming line. You will aim at the target and fire a short burst of 4 to 6 shots, from there end the drill, go mark your hits and return to the initial position to do the drill again if desired. Your objective is to control the recoil and get acceptable hits on target. This drill really shows if you are gripping your gun effectively as if you are not it is likely you will see your grip dissolve, something you don't get with the other drills where you will be mostly kept at a slow rate of fire.
The sixth drill is the reload drill. The drill begins with the weapon at the aiming line. You will bring the pistol to the work zone, perform whatever reload you wish to train and bring the pistol back to the aiming line. This drill is to be performed without ammo as it doesn't involve shooting. Additionally, I recommend doing this on top of some soft surface as you may unintentionally drop the magazine on the ground or intentionally drop it in the case of the emergency reload, enough drops and that mag will break, I'd say you can even do this drill sitting on your bed with a pillow on your lap as the big focus of this drill is on your hands and eyes instead of anywhere else on the body. I personally give the most attention to the tactical reload as it is the hardest to do but with more benefits than the regular and also because I can't afford to leave magazines behind, also the emergency reload has the same critical steps so in a way you are training for it as well.
The seventh drill is the inspection/four corner check drill. You begin at high or low ready, sight in your weapon and fire a shot at the target, after that bring and point your weapon down and perform an inspection, from there end the drill or reengage the target to do the drill again. Additionally, after becoming proficient at the other drills you may want to introduce the inspection at the end of them as well to further ingrain it into your brain so you never forget to do it.
The eighth drill is the big drill. It's a combination of all previous drills, it hasn't got much focus on anything but it is very fun so it can be done at a huge scale, I can do it for hours just because I really like doing it. Draw your weapon, form a two handed grip, bring it to alignment, fire one round at the target, reload, bring it back to alignment, fire another round, perform an inspection, put your weapon back in the holster and go verify the hits on target, go back to the initial position if you want to repeat it. Again, it is inefficient in the sense that you don't put most of your focus on learning a single thing but because you can do it a hundred times in a day you do still end up learning a lot.
The ninth drill is the target transition drill. You begin at high or low ready, aim and fire one round at the first target then immediately aim and fire another one at the second target, from there end the drill or reengage the first target to continue the drill until you are satisfied or out of ammo in your magazine, do one drill with your body pointed at the target to the left, one to the right and one between them, you can also do two shots per target if you want. You can begin with the targets right beside each other and slowly space them apart as you get better or you could just begin with them spaced by 45 degrees on some sessions and 90 degrees on other sessions, whichever you prefer.
The tenth drill is the color target transition drill. You will use a target with four colors, could be numbers or symbols as well. Begin at high or low ready, think of a sequence, for example, green then yellow, or blue then red then yellow then blue again, whatever you can think of that you are capable of remembering, you can also do things like two shots per color, then engage the targets in that sequence, after that end the drill, repeat as desired. Alternatively you could look up "soccer awareness colors" on YouTube, pick some video you think will work, find a way to leave your phone close enough to the center of your vision so that you can see the colors changing and engage the colors as they appear until you run out of ammo on your magazine, use the video speed function to make it easier or harder to keep up. I didn't really like this drill that much as I only thought of it when I had already gotten pretty good at target transitions so I thought it was too easy, but I think it could be pretty interesting at the beginning or as a final test to see if you have really gotten good.
For malfunctions, during all these drills and training you will inevitably run into them, solve the malfunction and carry on with the normal drill. You should do a few minutes of doing the process of solving them for training specifically for malfunctions as well.
Additionally I recommend that after you have done and gotten good at those basic drills check out the Drill app, it has a lot of cool basic drills, in fact some of the drills presented here come from there.
Here are the links for it:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... =web_share
https://appdrills.com/
A important note is that for some reason some drills say they require way more equipment than they actually require, I suspect it's because some content isn't implemented yet but for now you should be able to get by with a gun, two magazines, ammo, a holster and a target, sometimes two. Another important note is that you only have access to dry fire drills without a subscription, they can't stop you from using those drills in a live fire capacity however so fire away! Other than that follow their instructions and have fun!
Another good source of drills to check out is the T.Rex Arms website.
Here's the link:
https://www.trex-arms.com/training-targ ... l5jWkblg.1
They also have many other training resources that I recommend checking out, mostly in video format. Once again follow their instructions and have fun.
Let's talk about targets, specifically how to make them in case you don't want or know where to buy them.
By far the easiest and most practical design I've found is simply taking a cardboard box, preferably a thin one the sort that gets used to package televisions, and simply taping a paper target to it. The box will get holes into it but the holes will mostly be in the same area so it won't affect it's structural stability meaning the only thing you have to replace is the paper target you tape to it. You should replace the paper target when it becomes hard to distinguish new hits from old hits. You can acquire a box by going to some store or super market and asking to buy the ones that came packaging their products. Additionally, if using it for airsoft you might want to consider putting an old pillow inside as that will stop the BBs from coming out the other side, they may be plastic but with enough hits they will make a hole in your wall, I say this as someone with two new holes on my wall. Woops.
As for the paper target, for the purposes of learning basic shooting I recommend using a simple bullseye target instead of some silhouette target, you can just look them up on the internet, download a high definition one you like and print them. If you don't have a printer I recommend getting a red sharpie and drawing a cross on the paper, make it as thick as necessary for you to see it at the distance you are shooting.
This setup by itself will be as tall as your knees, you want to bring it up to the height of the average person, to do that if at your own property and not a public range simply stack objects on top of each other and put the target on top of it all.
Of course, you could also make a more professional looking thing out of wood, but if you can think of that then I probably don't need to tell you how to do it.
Now let's talk in a simplified way about ballistics, more specifically the material penetration portion of ballistics.
![Image](https://nightops.net/forum/download/file.php?mode=view&id=1136)
We don't have the time to go over how every cartridge behaves in relation to different levels of armor but I can tell you factors that help or hinder in the penetration of materials and you can use that information to recognize cartridges with good capability yourself. The following is presented in no particular order.
Things that help with piercing armor are:
Projectile velocity. A .45 round is very slow when compared to a 5.7 round for example, this is a major contributor for why .45 really struggles with penetrating armor.
Hardness. A projectile made of lead or copper is soft when compared to a projectile with a steel core penetrator, that is, a projectile with a chunk of steel inside, that along with other factors make the steel core round much better for penetrating armor.
Density and weight. Another attribute that helps a steel core penetrator projectile is that steel is a much denser material than copper. In case you don't know what density is basically the denser a material is the less space it occupies to reach a given amount of weight, a kilogram of feathers occupies much more space than a kilogram of steel. This means that the steel penetrator projectile gives a "stronger punch" than a copper projectile while still concentrating all that power on the same small area. Lead is denser than steel but again, it is softer so more prone to deforming on impact without doing much damage.
For materials like drywall, wood and bricks are similar to body armor but slightly different as certain values are more important in that case. For example both being common rounds without steel core penetrators a 7.62x51 cartridge will struggle more against body armor than a 5.56x45 because it is slower but will be much better at destroying bricks than the 5.56 because it is heavier. Other factors are also involved but I want to keep it simple as this isn't much of an explanation but more of an addendum to inform that factors are not the same for body armor and more common materials.
Things that hinder penetration are:
Angle of impact. Hitting armor or a wall head on has better chances of piercing it than hitting it at an angle as angling helps deflect the projectile.
Distance. Hitting armor or a wall at 5 meters is not the same as hitting it at 500 meters as the more distance a projectile travels the more it looses it's energy due to factors like wind resistance.
Previous layers. If a projectile that is rated to pierce a certain level of armor has already traveled through a wall it may have lost enough of it's energy to not be able to pierce that armor any longer.
Projectile shape. Typically a hollow point projectile will struggle more with penetrating materials when compared to FMJ as it is designed to transfer it's energy and stop inside the target. In layman's terms if the bullet is pointy it can probably go through more stuff than a non pointy bullet of the same caliber.
Now let's talk about fighting people with body armor. When you pull a gun on a person in self defense you don't necessarily have to kill that person, you probably will, but your intent is generally to make that person not a threat anymore by whatever means necessary. A person ceasing to be a threat can end in one of two ways, a psychological stop or a physical stop. A psychological stop happens when the person surrenders or runs away, either immediately upon seeing the weapon or after having some wound and pain inflicted upon them. A physical stop happens when the person becomes incapable of being a threat, because it's brain exploded, it bled out to the point of unconsciousness or it became incapable of stabbing or pulling a trigger. Generally speaking a physical stop is much more reliable than a psychological stop. Armor is a problem because it makes it very hard to hit where you have great chances of reaching a physical stop, among other complications this makes it so that the threat may have some extra time to fight back, possibly by shooting at you.
Typically most ballistic helmets and soft armor are level 3A, that means they will stop all the most common handgun calibers provided it's not some special armor piercing ammo of course. Then you have plate armor, they will usually be at least 3A but can go higher and stop most rifle rounds including 5.56 green tip, a 5.56 round with a steel core penetrator. There are more factors to hitting armor than just penetration. There's backface deformation, the armor stops the projectile but it's energy is enough to push the armor towards the wearer and break his ribs or skull. There's the energy transfer, the armor stops the projectile but the force applied to the wearer's head is enough to knock him out for some time. These factors exist but relying on them is pretty much trusting random chance. The enemy may be knocked out because he got shot in the back of his helmet or maybe he won't. The enemy may disengage from getting his ribs broken or he may not even notice he got shot because the adrenaline made him not feel any pain. Overall I'd just recommend not shooting at armor and instead aim for something else.
If you are using a gun that fires handgun calibers it's best to assume you can't get through any armor. If using a rifle you can assume you can get through soft armor but plates are up to question, also some vests allow the user to use soft or plate armor so there's even more doubt. Some knowledge and intel on your opposing force might help with that, for example usually average street policemen use soft 3A armor while the SWAT units use rifle rated plates, sometimes even rifle rated helmets that aren't really comfortable due to being too heavy but that's not a problem for them since they'll just wear it for a one hour raid. Regardless, here are some basic and brief instructions on what to do if fighting people with armor you can't pierce.
If the enemy is wearing just a vest aim for his head, more specifically the center upper half of his head where the brain lies, a hit to the brain stem will instantly take someone out.
If an enemy is wearing just a helmet aim for center mass, put as many shots there as is necessary to make him not a threat anymore. The heart is a bit above the nipple line and close to his center vertical line but a slight bit to the side. It's not instant death but it's as fast as you can get without being able to target the head.
If an enemy is wearing a helmet and vest you could try to hit his neck bone as there is a significant chance damage to that will result in immediate paralysis, it's a small target so good luck though. Another target would be the pelvis to try damage his mobility so you can run away and disengage or try to flank him, legs could have a similar effect. A hit to the arm or shoulder could make him unable to pull the trigger because of damage to the muscles and tendons.
A gunfight is very fast and dynamic, you'll probably not be able to execute your perfect plan to neutralize the target as fast as possible and will have to just wing it, but now you at least know some alternatives that are likely better than hitting armor and doing little to no damage.
You could also just try to mag dump on the armor as well, those things aren't magical and do have limits on how many rounds they can stop, but again not very reliable.
Now I'd like to address certain concerns and sometimes outright disdain and snobbishness some people in the firearms community feel towards things like airsoft despite quite a lot of knowledgeable and influential people in the firearms community having already stated favorable opinions towards it as one can see in the source section. But I'd still like to give my own take on it despite knowing that I have very little chance of success in convincing those people if they weren't already convinced by people with way more authority than me.
Certain people claim airsoft is unrealistic, that you can't learn anything good from it, that it's merely toys that serve no practical purpose, that it's LARPing and cringe, some don't even state a reason and just seem to hate it without explanation, all of this despite airsoft actively being used for training by police and military.
Let's say you are the best case scenario. You live in the United States where guns and ammunition are relatively cheap and easily accessible, you have your own select group of friends that can all regularly get together at your own private compound to train and spend thousands of live rounds, you all also have training conversion kits for your guns and training ammo to do force on force training on a controlled environment. Cool. That is very nice. However, the vast majority of people are not in that situation. The vast majority of people do not live in the US, they do not have a group of friends who all like guns and training, do not have their own dedicated place for training, can't spend the price of a brand new car on ammunition to do thousands of repetitions of drills, they can't even buy conversion kits and training ammo to use on their real guns, hell maybe they can't even own a real gun right now for whatever reason.
What most people can easily do however is buy an airsoft gun, buy thousands of BBs so they can do thousands of repetitions of drills on their own home, go out to some airsoft field and meet with randoms to practice force on force, maybe even become friends with some of these randoms and do more in depth training with them. If they can't own a gun right now in the future when they do get one they already have some training. Alternatives for training that aren't real guns may not be the most ideal, realistic and perfect solution but they are something and something is better than nothing, sometimes that's all some people can get at the moment so please, don't be a gatekeeping elitist.
A major reason for the existence of this guide is to provide solutions for people who want to get better at the use of firearms but aren't on an ideal position for that and may need to improvise.
With that being said, a lot of training value you get out of things like airsoft depend on how much of a focus on training you put into it in the first place. If you are running your actual kit that you would actually use and doing only things you would actually do on a real scenario then you will learn a lot. Conversely if you are running a speedsofting kit and running around trying to dodge bullets, treating it more as a fun game than a training and learning opportunity then you will obviously not learn a lot.
Try to keep in mind the inherent inaccuracies and limitations of the simulation you are using to train that you will inevitably encounter and probably have to partake in so as to not be too limited, just say to yourself "I would not be able to do this in real life" and carry on, it is what it is. You may hide behind a bush because that's enough to stop BBs, you may cross an open field because your enemies are 200 meters away and their BBs can't reach you, you may brush off a grenade because you were 6 meters away instead of 5, just keep in mind that in reality bushes are only concealment, rifles can easily make 200 meter shots and grenades can throw lethal fragments to a range way beyond the five meters your local field says it counts.
Maybe try to implement things you've learned here or somewhere else, for example consider what replica you are using and what body armor that would be able to pierce in reality, then try to only hit unarmored areas if you can't pierce a particular enemy's armor. That might make things harder for you but again, you get the training value at the rate you put in focus on training. Another thing you can sometimes see in things like airsoft is people using kits from the past. I'd say that has some potential for learning as it's pretty much a peek at previous conflicts that could give you some insight that could be applied to your more modern kit, just keep in mind that the money you spend on getting a perfect world war one kit may have been better spent on other stuff.
Generally as the fields and engagement distances expand you lose accuracy and realism in terms of direct combat but you do end up being able to practice other interesting skills like land navigation, coordination, ambushes and even stealth and infiltration since your opponents won't always be expecting contact. Smaller fields more realistic combat, larger fields more freedom of action.
Now some very basic and general combat tips.
Know the difference between cover and concealment. Cover provides protection from getting shot and generally hides you from view. Concealment only hides you from view. A thick tree is cover, a bush is concealment. A car's front where the engine is is cover, a car's door is concealment. A brick wall is cover, a wooden door or table is concealment. Bullet proof glass is cover, regular glass with a dark film is concealment. Also remember that cover is relative and what stops a pistol may not stop a rifle or a .50 cal and act according to what you are fighting against. Another thing is that cover degrades, even the sturdiest brick wall will break after enough damage.
Don't stand in the open where you are an easy target, get to cover or at the very least concealment, if none of that is available try to make yourself smaller by going prone. Obviously if the threat is right in front of you, the cover way behind you and it makes more sense to just shoot instead of running for cover or going prone then this tip doesn't apply.
When in cover avoid getting right up against it or having your back facing it, prefer to stay at least about an arms length away from it so you keep situational awareness by not having everything you see be wall and don't face away from the threat.
When popping out of cover to shoot back try to expose as little of you as possible. Avoid popping out from the top as that exposes you to way too many angles at once, give preference to popping out from the sides. When popping out from the side avoid always popping out of the same side as your enemy may be looking there and waiting for you to pop out, if there is nowhere else available to pop out try to change your height by crouching or retreat to another piece of cover.
If you need to reload or solve a malfunction then obviously get back into cover.
This is dependent of situation but if applicable avoid staying on the same piece of cover for too long as you might get flanked.
Try to avoid moving without your gun being ready to fire, as in no ammo, jammed or not in your hand, as if danger suddenly appears you may not be able to respond. Of course if you are in immediate danger and need to move then obviously move. This and other tips are more like guidelines to be applied and adapted depending on context.
Keep situational awareness and avoid hyper focusing if you're not with a team that is covering your flanks for you.
Try to keep calm and not panic, you probably won't be able to but at least try. Having previous exposure to stress may help.
Understand and accept that you may possibly, maybe probably get shot and killed. It is what it is.
Sources:
On dry firing:
https://youtu.be/YOc0K-nIESk
https://youtu.be/lYJk_ioERK8
https://youtu.be/1OwCjuUNs0M
https://youtu.be/-6uHjvTsMNc
On guns:
https://youtu.be/hJdv5uTtFJ8
On safety:
https://www.headphonesty.com/2023/06/no ... -shooting/
The Drill app.
On training:
https://youtu.be/DV_WTsF_7kM
https://youtu.be/CDB8sDwwWwU
https://youtu.be/BypuKXOmEkg
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... nMGXi56TQl
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... B9Lt341HH-
https://youtu.be/6lMYzJpD4n8
https://youtu.be/YS6Vk2vPuYA
https://youtu.be/f7PVB-PF0iE
https://youtu.be/OeC5ye6DtdI
https://youtu.be/bElcXjJ5iII
The Drill app.
On ballistics:
https://youtu.be/j3BlRPtCj2E
https://youtu.be/7VeqqNuQU_4
https://youtu.be/-4Qi_Fr9Bbg
https://youtu.be/eF29mvSmbWM
https://youtu.be/ia1k1Zg4l2A
https://youtu.be/6JwlzR5nPFw
https://youtu.be/4qSVOZfp3R4
https://youtu.be/urWDf8DoI3M
https://youtu.be/d9Og2YeSGVY
https://youtu.be/bKQizbg1zBw
https://youtu.be/SwDoWSkiGZ4
https://youtu.be/i0x-aFVMcko
https://youtu.be/3vhjP1WKD-k
On anatomy:
https://youtu.be/uWR3LHEjRAE
https://youtu.be/T85RSuPeQoA
https://youtu.be/r-PrC_OsfJQ
https://youtu.be/AIULDPGDolQ
On airsoft:
https://youtu.be/qQDfwyUgtjg
https://youtu.be/a1y8ENfbaig
https://youtu.be/Chtb6bvNcxc
https://youtu.be/ECGxVlh4kFY
https://youtu.be/CnF5ui73Osg
https://youtu.be/Z_N3Zf5CnVQ
https://youtu.be/dKcdz-pxF7I
https://youtu.be/kx9dkCAHZyM
https://www.reddit.com/r/airsoft/commen ... th_airsoft
On combat:
https://youtu.be/Us-w6569cm8
https://youtu.be/K0SjIC1gYTA
https://youtu.be/vIJJCSs0SP8
https://youtu.be/DlNHy40LqzE
https://youtu.be/RARNJwzKmps
https://youtu.be/ofwUAkcpzDY
https://youtu.be/XavAanwtoww
https://youtu.be/tCq7pEtSIV4
https://youtu.be/pGs_2eYGyw8
Man this took a very long time to write, ignoring various setbacks like the airsoft gun breaking and having to take it to a repairman actual training time took only 5 weeks, hours per day varying a lot, from one hour all the way to 8. I'd say it was time extremely well spent since in this relatively short time I went from really bad to good.
If I have forgotten the source for something feel free to say and if it isn't something that I have forgotten where I've learned it from I'll edit the post to add it.
Next up I'll probably do crouched wall movement, not right now though, right now I want to take a break from writing not this wall, but an entire skyscraper of text, probably a week or two. As for combat related stuff I'll probably do shooting while moving next.
End of blogpost.
This blogpost will have a very different structure when compared to other blogposts. Whereas the other ones usually just focus on the movements themselves and not much else this one will have a nuclear bomb of knowledge about guns. The idea being that you could send this to someone who barely knows what end of a gun the bullet comes off and by the end of it that person will have at least a decent basic understanding of guns. It is long and extensive despite being basic because it's a really, really large topic. I just felt like it wouldn't be complete without it being like this. When I eventually translate everything to video format I will also make an abridged version that follows the more usual and simple structure.
This guide will use a lot of broad terms like "generally", "in general", "usually", "most", "sometimes", because there are exceptions to everything and I don't want some guy on my ear saying "Actually this obscure gun from 1966 doesn't match up your description therefore all you wrote is incorrect".
I am not a police or military guy, but I am parroting what those guys say as well as very well informed civilians and the sources for everything (that I am capable of remembering and finding again) will be at the end of this blogpost, unless it's something obvious like saying pistols are small, I don't think I need a source for that.
We will be using a lot of technical terms, if you find something that you don't understand and that isn't explained look it up on the internet otherwise we will be here all day.
This guide IS about real firearms, but we will also be talking about other things as well for reasons that will be explained later.
This guide will mostly focus on pistols but will also give some tips for long guns as well.
Now, finally, let's begin.
Shooting is pretty simple and easy to learn, at least for me, but it can be very expensive if you don't know how to train it efficiently as it takes a lot of repetition to get good at it. Fortunately, dry firing exists. It consists of training without using actual ammunition. You can use an empty firearm, a non firing replica like a blue gun, a firing replica like an airsoft gun and some other options that I will only briefly talk about due to not having experience with. Dry firing is also good because it lets you train at the convenience of your own home, thus making it easier for you to train and that brings more frequent training.
Let's take a look at our options for dry firing, from least expensive to most expensive. Additionally, for the purposes of simplifying things nearly all of the options allow you to train some elements of gun safety, handling and certain aspects of precision shooting, so none of this will be repeated.
Low end blue gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, target transition and that's about it. It's very limited due to usually having non functioning triggers, safety, magazines and overall being just a piece of plastic shaped like a gun. Weight is usually very light and unrealistic. I would highly recommend giving it a pass and saving money for something else.
Spring airsoft gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, (some) precision shooting, target transition, reloading, (some) malfunction resolution and (some) force on force. It won't let you train follow up shots due to requiring you to manually cycle it. It's precision is rather poor due to it's low FPS thus requiring lighter BBs, however, you could compensate this by making the targets smaller and getting closer to them. You can rack the slide so you could train some malfunction resolutions but they are usually very fragile so I would recommend against it. It's also not very good for force on force training as due to all it's disadvantages taking it to an airsoft field would probably result in you getting trashed throughout the entire game. Weight is usually very light and unrealistic as well. I would say this is the first viable option, if you are really short on money but really want to start getting some reps in, it's a reasonable choice, but I'd still recommend you to save some more money for something better.
Mid end blue gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, target transition, reloading and malfunction resolution. You can train supporting skills fairly well but it's lacking on the main skills due to their inability to shoot. Weight is still too light and unrealistic. I would skip it if I were you, but maybe you could pair it up with an airsoft gun to mutually cover some of their flaws.
High end blue gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, (some) precision shooting, target transition, reloading and malfunction resolution. It may seem like a pretty complete package until you consider that these ones usually fire a laser from it's barrel and that's what gives it some capacity to train precision shooting, problem is that after that laser is gone you no longer have a way to verify your hits on target and that's very detrimental to drills that require multiple shots. Weight is again too light and unrealistic. I'd skip it.
Electric airsoft gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, precision shooting, target transition, (some) reloading and force on force. Electric airsoft guns usually have non reciprocating slides so you will be unable to train for malfunctions, their magazines sometimes are of a different, thinner shape than the ones of a real gun due to how their internals work, but you should be able to practice reloading regardless. Their weight is quite similar to the one of a real firearm, but still a little bit on the lighter side. This was my choice as it provides most of what I wanted while still being relatively cheap.
Gas blowback airsoft gun:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, precision shooting, target transition, reloading, malfunction resolution, (some) recoil mitigation and force on force. The most notable thing about this one is the recoil, it's nice to be able to get a bit used to it but you have to keep in mind that it still doesn't come close to the recoil of a real firearm, still nice to have though. The weight is usually very close to the one of a real firearm. The price of the gun itself is usually very similar to an electric one, but the magazines are more expensive and they require gas to run instead of just BBs like electric ones so that extra cost will start to stack up because we will be firing thousands of rounds. The gas also makes them a bit louder. If I was a little more well off I would have bought one, I will probably sell the electric one in the future and upgrade to a GBB.
Empty firearm:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, target transition, reloading and malfunction resolution. It's pretty much an overpriced mid end blue gun with the advantage of being an actual gun that if necessary you can actually use. The weight is obviously of a real firearm, it is one! For the pure purposes of training it isn't a good option as you could get most benefits of it with a mid end blue gun, however, you could upgrade it with the next option.
Empty firearm + laser firing device:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, (some) precision shooting, target transition, reloading and malfunction resolution. Now it's pretty much an overpriced high end blue gun! Talk about diminishing returns. These laser firing devices often take the shape of a fake bullet that fires a laser when the striker hits a button where the primer would usually be, could also take the form of a part of the gun that fires a laser that replaces some other part. Weight is again the one of a real firearm. It is very nice to be able to train with your real gun but it still lacks the ability to train certain things that even an electric airsoft gun would. If you don't have a real firearm and you feel like you will need one soon while somehow only having the money for it, then sure go for it, but if you just need to train I'd say get something else.
Realistic training guns and conversion kits:
It will allow you to train draws, target acquisition/sight alignment, precision shooting, target transition, reloading, malfunction resolution, (some) recoil mitigation and force on force. These take the form of things like the UNIT4 training rifles or MTX training ammo that is fed on real firearms with conversion kits to run them. The recoil can get very, very close to the real thing on rifles but not so much for pistols. Keep in mind however that when it comes to force on force I don't think many airsoft fields would let you use what is essentially a paintball gun, but paintball fields maybe will. The weight is that of a real firearm. It's pretty much like a GBB airsoft gun but with additional recoil, precision and range. If you have lots of money and don't care about that addendum about airsoft then sure go for it. These two are grouped together because they are pretty similar on what they do, but dedicated training rifles are obviously cheaper than a real rifle running simunitions.
Now that you have chosen the general category of training gun you wish to use let's take a look at the more common categories of guns that training gun will represent. And remember, generally speaking the larger they get the more expensive they get.
The following is considering the use of regular ammunition unless stated the contrary. For more regular firearms that would be FMJ while for shotguns that would be buckshot. We will go into more detail on the topic of ballistics later on.
Pistols:
In general pistols are semi automatic, small, compact, easily concealable firearms meant for self defense that fire pistol caliber ammunition, in layman's terms a small bullet. They are good at close range and struggle with anything past that. They are usually unable to pierce soft body armor. Their ability to pierce materials is also rather low. In airsoft I'd recommend you to stick to fields or areas of fields that are focused on close range as airsoft guns are very limited in regards to range and most airsoft pistols are specially affected by this, therefore you will have a very bad day at longer engagement ranges. There are also machine pistols that are basically pistols but those have the capability to fire in fully automatic, full auto pistols are usually very difficult to control.
I highly, highly recommend you to choose a pistol as your initial training and learning platform. Why? Well, things that have a third point of contact with your body, usually a stock that goes up against the area of your chest that borders your shoulder, are much easier to shoot, but good rifle skills usually don't easily translate into good pistol skills. Pistol skills however, are easily transferred to other weapon systems. If you are capable of shooting well with a pistol you will easily learn how to shoot well with for example a rifle because you have gotten good at shooting with a platform that requires you to truly understand and be good at the fundamentals of shooting. Additionally, the characteristics of pistols are much more suited for the general focus of these series of guides and tutorials, that being stealth.
Revolvers:
In general revolvers are single, double or single and double action hybrids, small or somewhat small, compact or somewhat compact, easily or somewhat easily concealable firearms meant for self defense that fire pistol caliber ammunition or larger pistol caliber ammunition, in layman's terms a small bullet or a big small bullet. They are ok at close range and struggle with anything past that. They usually struggle to penetrate soft body armor. Their ability to pierce materials is the same as pistols for the smaller ones or a bit more than pistols for the larger ones. They may seem a lot like pistols until you consider they have a very small capacity when compared to most modern pistols, typically 5 to 8 rounds, 6 in most, compare this to the capacity of modern pistols that's usually at least 12 and you can see that revolvers are an obsolete weapon system. Also very slow to reload if you don't have a speed loader. If you do pick this and go to something like airsoft you will very quickly see how outclassed you are. All of this and they are usually less customizable than pistols. Just get a pistol bro.
Pistol caliber carbines:
In general pistol caliber carbines are semi automatic, sort of small, sort of compact, not so easily concealable firearms meant for self defense that fire pistol caliber ammunition. They excel at close range and do begin to struggle at anything past it but they have quite a bit more range than pistols due to having a stock and longer barrel. Their ability to penetrate armor is similar to pistols but a bit better, sometimes able to pierce soft body armor due to longer barrels that provide higher velocities. Their ability to penetrate materials is also pretty similar to pistols. In airsoft you can expect this to have the range of assault rifles as they are large enough to fit their internals, however, you will struggle to find a proper pistol caliber carbine as most things in airsoft that can be full auto will be full auto, but you can simulate it by only using semi auto, otherwise it's basically an SMG. Speaking of which.
Submachine guns:
A submachine gun is pretty much the same as a pistol caliber carbine but full auto and meant for assaulting positions at close range. I decided to make them separate categories as PCCs are usually operated by civilians while SMGs are usually operated by military and police. Or at least they used to be operated by them. You see, body armor kind of made them obsolete because they struggle to pierce them, they were then replaced by a similar weapon concept known as de Personal Defense Weapon. Once again speaking of which.
Personal defense weapons:
A PDW is pretty much a SMG but with some altered characteristics. It was born during the cold war when NATO feared soviet paratroopers falling behind their lines and wrecking havoc on rear echelon troops and logistics units, they wanted to equip those guys as well as tank crews with something portable but easier to use and with more range than a pistol that was also capable of piercing body armor that the paratroopers would probably be using, from this the PDW concept was born and gave us weapons such as the MP7 and P90. Although it has "defense" in it's name and was born out of a defensive need it is still functionally a SMG with better armor piercing capabilities and is not uncommonly used as such by police and sometimes military. However, their better armor piercing capabilities only manifest themselves when using armor piercing rounds that are usually only available to the police and military, without them it has almost the same armor piercing capabilities of a SMG or PCC. If you wish to easily and consistently be able to pierce soft body armor with regular commercially available ammunition I'd recommend taking a look at the next weapon category.
Semi auto rifles:
In general semi auto rifles are, well, obviously semi automatic, varied in size, compactness and concealability meant for many different purposes and fire intermediate caliber ammunition, in layman's terms, a medium bullet. They are good at close and medium ranges and will struggle past that. They are usually capable of piercing soft body armor. They are usually capable of piercing quite a lot of materials, but still not capable of piercing things like most brick or cinder block walls. As you can see, they vary a lot, that's because of the many different configurations they can be outfitted with. Being semi auto reflects their civilian nature, the AR15 is probably the most famous example of a semi auto rifle. They are also often referred to as "carbines". In airsoft, you will have the same problem and solution as with a PCC, that being of a lack of semi only rifles, so just take a select fire rifle and use it on semi only. Speaking of select fire.
Select fire rifles:
In general select fire rifles are pretty much the same thing as semi auto rifles but this time they allow you to choose between semi, full and sometimes burst fire modes. They are mostly only available for police and military in most countries. Riflemen are the bulk of combat troops in most armies as they are easy to learn and fair well in most situations infantry may encounter on a war. They are also often called "assault rifles" but the shorter ones are usually called "carbines" as well. If you don't want to train with a pistol this or their civilian counterparts the semi auto rifles are my second recommendation. In airsoft they will do well in as far as I know all fields.
Battle rifles:
In general battle rifles are semi or select fire, big, not compact, I'd say impossible to conceal on a person, meant to basically be chonkier assault rifles that fire full length rifle ammunition, in layman's terms, a big bullet. They are good at close and excel at medium ranges, with a bit more reach than most assault rifles. They are capable of piercing soft body armor. They can pierce through a lot of material, not a well built brick or concrete wall though. Since the mid cold war they have mostly been replaced by assault rifles, but some armies still keep them as their main rifles or in specific roles.
Designated marksman rifles:
In general DMRs are semi but also sometimes select fire, big or somewhat big, not compact, again I'd say impossible to conceal, meant to fill the engagement ranges that stand between standard assault or battle rifles and sniper rifles. Some fire intermediate caliber others full length. They are usable at close range but truly excel at medium to long ranges. Capable of piercing soft body armor. Material piercing capabilities dependent on caliber, bigger usually more material penetration. They are kind of like battle rifles but truly dedicated to longer ranges. In airsoft they do, well, what they were designed for in reality but with airsoft engagement ranges.
Sniper rifles:
In general sniper rifles are bolt action, big, not compact, once again impossible to conceal on a person, meant to pick off enemies, usually high value targets, at long distances. They fire full length rifle ammunition. Excel at long ranges, not recommended for shorter distances. They are capable of piercing soft armor and some can even pierce some plate armor. They can also pierce through a lot of material. In airsoft, once again it's a case of what they were made to do in reality but with airsoft's limitations on range. I would however recommend you to not use a sniper rifle as your starting airsoft weapon, but if you still want to, make sure not to buy the cheap ones as they are pretty bad. Airsoft sniping is usually good stealth practice though.
Anti material rifles:
In general AMRs are bolt action or semi, enormous, not compact would be an understatement, unconcealable as well, meant for taking out things such as explosives, engines, light vehicles, well, material, but can also be used against personnel as well. They fire... Actually I couldn't find the technical term for it so I'll just say the layman's that being a really BIG bullet. Excel at longer ranges. Are capable of piercing all but the heaviest body armor. Their name already indicates it's material piercing power, not even concrete block walls can withstand it. In airsoft they work pretty much as bulkier DMRs or sniper rifles.
Light machine guns:
In general LMGs are full auto, big, not compact, unconcealable, meant for squad support in activities of attack by suppressing enemies so others can flank them and in defense by holding down areas. Some fire intermediary calibers others fire full length. Usable at close range but excel at medium. Capable of piercing soft body armor. Material capabilities are dependent on caliber, the heavier ones pierce more material. They are mostly only available for the military. In airsoft they operate in a similar manner as reality due to generally being bulky, heavy and reducing mobility.
Shotguns:
In general shotguns are break action, pump action, semi automatic or fully automatic, varied in size, compactness and concealability, usually meant for close range engagements, often in an offensive role. Excel at close range but aren't as limited in that regard as Call of Duty would have you believe. Aren't capable of piercing soft armor. Material piercing capabilities are good, drywall trembles upon the sight of them. Break action shotguns are obsolete for combat purposes at this point. In airsoft they tend to work like in reality, but again with airsoft's limitations.
Now that you have chosen the general category of gun you wish to train with, let's actually get over to training. Again, this guide is focused on pistols with some tips for long weapons, you will simply use your brain to adapt the contents of this guide for your particular gun and training gun.
Safety:
The first thing you have to train is gun safety. Let's go about the rules of gun safety.
First the four more common ones.
1. Always treat the gun as loaded.
2. Always keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to fire.
3. Never point the gun at anything you don't intend to destroy.
4. Be sure of your target and what's beyond it.
Now additional rules that most people don't mention and are somewhat redundant or heavily affected by context but I still think should be kept in mind.
1. Always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction.
2. Always keep the gun unloaded until you are ready to use it.
3. Learn the mechanical and handling characteristics of the gun you are using.
4. Always use proper ammunition.
5. Be sure the barrel is clear of obstructions before loading and shooting.
6. If your gun fails to fire when the trigger is pulled, hold your shooting position for several seconds then with the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, carefully unload the gun.
7. Don't rely on the gun's safety to keep it from firing.
8. Be aware of your surroundings when handling guns so you don't trip or lose your balance and accidentally point and/or fire the gun at anyone or anything.
Of course, some of those things can be relaxed if you are using a training gun, but even then you should keep them in mind regardless.
If your weapon has a manual safety it is highly recommended to keep it on until you are ready to fire, it may be annoying at the start but with training this becomes way less inconvenient. You may say "but a lot of these rules are redundant!" and you would be right, it's meant to be this way, kind of like how planes have multiple redundancies to avoid accidents, it's the same here. If you forgot to activate the safety you kept your finger off the trigger, if you forgot that as well at least you were pointing the weapon at the ground instead of anyone or anything.
Another thing about safety that you must keep in mind is protective equipment. You only have one set of eyes and one set of ears, if they are lost they are lost forever. Use safety glasses, if short on money you can go to a hardware store and get them for cheap. This is relevant for both real firearms and airsoft, if a bullet hits something and fragments fly into your unprotected eyes it's over, same with airsoft, BB ricochets off a wall and goes into your eye it's also over. Wear ear protection, it's quite cheap but this time I'd recommend getting something specifically made with shooting in mind instead of something out of a hardware store. Shoot a real firearm without then and not so slowly but absolutely surely you will lose a good portion of your hearing, in airsoft some fields allow training grenades that explode with a loud boom, too many of those and the same thing will happen. Eye and ear damage is often irreversible, will you take that risk? No? Then use eye and ear protection. Additionally but not so critically when doing force on force with something like airsoft consider using some sort of protection for your mouth, the ammunition may be non lethal for you as a whole but they certainly can be lethal for your teeth. I encourage you to do your own research into eye, ear and mouth protection as there are many options out there.
Stance:
The second thing to work on is your stance as nearly everything else you do flows from it. In a real situation you won't always be able to get on a perfect stance but you should still train it as getting something close to a good stance helps a lot. You are also able to move your legs and get into stance once the situation develops to allow you to do so.
You may notice words like "about" in the following and other paragraphs. That's because everyone has different anatomy so what works for some may not work too well for others. Because of this I think some room should be left for adaptation and you should see certain things that I say more as guidelines. Other things however are very objective and you should strictly follow them.
It begins at your feet. You want to position them in a way that your feet are about aligned with your shoulders. Next you will put one of your foot, usually your non firing leg foot, so the foot opposite to the arm you hold the gun's grip or shoulder the gun with, about a step forwards. The firing leg can work too but I personally found it to feel weird and non intuitive. Obviously you could also put one foot back to achieve the same effect. Next it may have already happened on it's own but the back leg foot will be pointed a bit off to the side away from your body. A BIT off, not too much. Next you want to bend your knees a little to help with overall stability and recoil management. Next is your hips and torso. If you are or are going to be wearing body armor like a plate carrier for example you want to present your plates to the target, this means the plates are facing the target in the way that covers your vitals as much as possible, so you don't want to lean forwards or to the sides, instead you should keep your hips and torso centered with the target and your spine straight. Guys die because they lean forwards in an effort to cushion recoil or "have a more aggressive stance" and end up getting shot in an unarmored vital area that would otherwise be protected if they had used a proper stance. We will talk about the arms and hands portion of stance later, first we gotta reach the gun.
Draw:
Lets go over the drawing process in a simplified way. We will go over the intricacies of the steps later on. Drills and how to train these things will come after all the instructions.
To draw your weapon you must first clear the holster of any obstructions. If it's a concealed holster you must get your clothes out of the way. If it's an outside the waistband holster it may have some sort of mechanical lock to prevent someone from taking the gun away from you when you aren't paying attention. The mechanism may be loud so if you need to do it silently you must figure out what's causing the noise and prevent that from happening in some way. Maybe the button you press releases a spring that pushes whatever blocks the gun's path out of the way really quickly and when it hits something it makes a lot of noise. You can maybe add padding to it or simply hold the blocker when you press the button to ensure that it doesn't hit anything too quickly, that is obviously slow so keep that in mind. With the obstructions out of the way you must grip your gun, make sure it's a good grip as that grip will probably accompany you throughout the engagement. Next you want to pull the gun out of the holster and bring it towards the work zone through the fastest available route while simultaneously deactivating the weapon's manual safety if applicable and also bringing the off hand to the work zone. Next you want to form a two handed grip. Now you must drive the weapon towards your target while prepping the trigger and forming a sight picture. With that done fire the weapon if you deem it necessary.
Of course, that whole process may not be the best in every situation. For example in a scenario where someone is running at you with a knife at very close range you will probably be better off cutting the process to simply drawing the weapon and point shooting with one hand while moving away from the attacker and protecting your neck with your other arm. We will however only cover that longer method of draw as understanding it will give you the basis to figure out other methods by yourself.
The grip:
A good grip on a pistol will be done by holding the weapon as high as possible. "As possible" means without stopping the gun from functioning and without hurting yourself, that slide will reciprocate and you don't want your finger on it's way. To see what a good grip looks like simply do an L shape with your thumb and index finger and slide the corner of that L shape on the pistol's grip as high as the tang/beaver tail will allow you to. Next you want to wrap all your fingers around the the grip, remember to not put your index finger inside the trigger guard unless you want to fire the weapon. As for the strength to be applied to the grip you want to apply as much force as you can without having the sights shake or your trigger finger locking up and preventing you from firing. You want to point at something and have the barrel pointed at that thing as well, almost as if the pistol was a natural extension of your hand and arm. If you have followed these instructions correctly you should have formed a good one handed grip.
The concept of the working zone:
The working zone can be seen as a rectangular box shaped area that begins at the lower part of your chest and goes up to the height of your forehead. It's in this area that you will perform most of the activities related to managing your gun, such as forming a two handed grip, reloading and clearing malfunctions.
The two handed grip:
To form a two handed grip you must lift your firing hand's thumb to make space for the non firing hand. Next in a similar way to how you did an L shape and got under the pistol's tang/beaver tail you will take the non firing hand, make it as if you were going to high five someone but with your thumb sticking out and put your non firing hand's index finger under the trigger guard by about the middle of the finger. Next you want to put your non firing hand's fingers in the grooves of your firing hand's fingers all the way from your index finger to your pinky, the pinky will probably be left in direct contact with the pistol's grip. Next you will wrap the palm of your non firing hand around the exposed part of the pistol's grip. Now finally you will set your thumbs back down. The firing hand's thumb should be on top of the non firing hand, it's last section is now probably touching the first section of your other thumb. Your two handed grip should be done now.
The arms and hands portion of stance:
When lining up your shot you want to align your pistol's sights with your target and with your eyes, however, you want to bring the sights to your eyes not the other way around. Another thing to watch out for is to not fully extend your arms when aiming down the sights. You want a slight curve provided by slightly bending your elbows, this will help in the future when it comes to shooting while moving as that slight bend will help a lot with shock absorption and other things we will go about later. The last thing to note is that your pistol should be about aligned with the center vertical line of your body.
For long weapons, you will most likely have to move your eyes to your sights by slightly tilting your head. That's because the stock must be positioned in the outer area of your chest that borders your shoulder. You have to do that because, well, any other options will be sub optimal at best and very painful at worst. Putting the stock of a shotgun at the center or your chest or at your shoulder and firing the gun will ingrain this lesson in your brain in a way you will never forget.
Sight alignment:
When it comes to sight alignment we will be mostly talking about iron sights as red dots are extremely simple. Simply put the dot on top of your target and press the trigger without disturbing the dot and that's pretty much it. I mean, provided they are zeroed and I will not be talking about how to zero a red dot as there are guides out there that can do the job way better than I can. If your iron sights are adjustable then they also need to be zeroed, that is more of a rifle thing however, pistols rarely have adjustable iron sights.
The first thing you must do is find out what eye is your dominant eye, that is, the eye your brain gives preference to most of the times when both of your eyes can see the same thing. To do that simply take your hands and use your thumbs and index fingers to make a triangle shape. Next pick a point of some thing that's about 3 to 5 meters away. Now look at that point and put the triangle shape on top of the point in a way that the point is at the center of the shape. Now close one of your eyes. If the point is still at the center of the shape then the eye that is open is your dominant eye and the one that's closed is your non dominant eye. If the point is no longer at the center of the shape then the eye that is open is your non dominant eye and the one that's closed is your dominant eye. If your dominant hand is at the same side as your dominant eye you are regular eye dominant. If your dominant hand is not at the same side as your dominant eye you are cross eye dominant.
This is important because we want to shoot with both eyes open, it's too much of a disadvantage to lose half of your field of vision when shooting and because of that we must do as stated before and bring the sights to the eye but it has to be the correct eye, your dominant eye.
With pistols it's pretty easy to counter cross eye dominance, you will simply hold the pistol with your dominant hand and bring it to your dominant eye. Additionally you can also slightly turn your head to the gripping hand's direction in order to better centralize everything. Do not tilt the pistol to bring it to your dominant eye as that will make it not leveled and that makes recoil harder to control.
With long weapons on the other hand you will have some options, all of them with a bad side. You can use dominant hand and non dominant eye, but then you lose some visual acuity. You can use non dominant hand and dominant eye, but then you lose some ability to handle the weapon. You can use dominant hand and close the dominant eye when you're going to shoot but then you lose some field of view. I'd say use the first option for extremely close ranges and use the last option for longer engagements.
If you have cross eye dominance do not feel discouraged to learn shooting. I myself have cross eye dominance and I don't see it as much of a problem.
With that out of the way let's actually talk about sight alignment. It is often said a image is worth a 1000 words, I'd say even more words in this case, so we will be using images a lot in this section.
While shooting with both eyes open your sight picture should look something like this. It takes a while to get used to it so take your time.
You want to be able to consistently bring the sights to your eyes and already have them properly aligned or at the very least requiring minimal adjustment. It may be very hard at the start but with time and practice you'll get there.
Get the alignment wrong and you'll struggle to hit your targets.
You want to focus on your front sight. The target should be blurry. Front sight focus makes the entire process of aiming easier in many ways. Most pistols these days already come with some sort of dot in the front and rear sights, if yours doesn't have it you may want to put something in your sights like tape or paint as aiming in general can be quite difficult if you're trying to align black sights on a black target. Front sight focus can be difficult at first but again with time and practice you'll get better at it. Make sure you are actually focusing on the front sight and not merely looking at it.
Breathing control:
For very precise shots without much time pressure you might want to consider holding your breath for extra stability. In open combat however you want to breathe normally throughout your engagement as the extra few seconds you take to hold your breath can mean your enemy hitting you before you hit them. At the start of my training I'd hold my breath to compensate for my lack of skill in other areas, a few weeks later and I didn't even think about breathing.
Trigger management:
Additionally, when pulling the trigger you don't want to "yank" it back, you want to "prep" it. Prepping the trigger means pulling through the trigger's slack, that is, the soft and easy to pull part of the trigger, and reach "the wall". The wall is the part of the trigger where you find the most resistance, after that the weapon will usually fire. When shooting you want to fire from the wall as the opposite to it, just pulling the trigger all the way from the beginning will usually result in poor hits on target at best and total misses at worse due to how you will likely pull the entire pistol down and to the side. You should also avoid changes in how much strength you use on your grip when pulling the trigger as that can also affect your accuracy.
Recoil management:
When a gun fires, most of them will apply force backwards and upwards, that's what's called recoil. Your objective is to control recoil so that it's not as big of a problem as it could be. Fortunately for you the things you have learned in relation to stance and grip already help with that a lot, but you still have to learn how to actively mitigate recoil. After a gun fires the tip of it's barrel will go up, you want to force it back down on target as opposed to just let it fall back on target on it's own. A good way to visualize how that works would be playing a first person shooter game and the difference between pulling the mouse down while firing to keep the sights on target as opposed to just stop firing and letting the sights fall back onto the target to then fire again. The first option allows you to do follow up shots much faster. Additionally, recoil anticipation, so pulling the gun downwards right before firing, is simply missed timing of trying to do active recoil mitigation. In that case you want to train yourself to get the timing right as opposed to get rid of that instinct altogether.
Follow up shots:
Sometimes you may need to take multiple shots one after the other. What you DON'T want to do is fire the gun, handle the recoil, bring the sights back on target and only after that release the trigger, hear the "click" sound of the trigger mechanism resetting and because you heard that click firing another shot. What you DO want to do is to fire the weapon, handle the recoil, bring the sights back to the target and at the same time that you're doing all of that release the trigger to the point the mechanism resets and makes the gun ready to fire again, this means that ideally you never hear the click of the mechanism resetting. If you are incapable of doing in a way you don't hear the click, at the very least you must make sure you're not letting the click dictate when you fire your weapon, you must fire it when you need it to fire, not because you heard the click.
Target transition:
To get your sights from one target to another you will simply repeat the process of acquiring a sight picture to your first target, as in, look at your other target and then bring the sights to your eye. Ideally you have trained enough to the point that your sights are already aligned when brought to your eye. The opposite, to keep the sights aligned with your eye and bring both sights and eye to the next target is not recommended as you will likely pass the target with the sights anyway, also tends to be more sluggish. Additionally, if you are on a proper stance your feet should stay fixed on the ground and your knees, hips, torso, arms and head are the ones that move, unless the other target is beyond your turn radius of course, in that case you should obviously move what's needed to get to the target.
Reloading:
When the time to reload your weapon comes you will have three options, the regular reload, the tactical reload and the emergency reload. The regular reload is accomplished by first taking the spent magazine off the gun, putting it back on your kit, picking from your kit a fresh magazine, inserting the new magazine in the gun and finally racking the slide, bolt or whatever your gun has if necessary. The tactical reload is accomplished by picking from your kit a fresh magazine, with the same hand taking the old magazine out off the gun, putting in the new magazine, taking the old mag back to the kit and finally racking the gun if necessary. The emergency reload is done by removing the spent magazine, letting it drop on the ground, picking up a new one from your kit, inserting it in the weapon and racking the gun if necessary.
The regular reload is also just called "reload". You may want to introduce into your kit a dump pouch, a large open pouch where you just toss in spent magazines so you don't have to struggle with quickly putting them back into your kit, but that isn't strictly necessary.
The tactical reload keeps your weapon down for less time than the regular if done correctly but needs some practice to be effective otherwise it's very probable that you'll just fail and drop the magazines on the ground, it took me 2 or 3 days to get good at it. It can also be called "reload of opportunity" as you usually do it when you have the opportunity. The specific instructions for the technique are hard to understand through text and even image or video format so I'll recommend you to check the drill section for the training app I'll recommend there as it has instructions with video. But if you want something in text, for pistols it basically consists of picking up the magazine as normal, transitioning that magazine to be held by your middle and index fingers, letting the old one fall into and be held by your index and thumb and finally inserting the new mag and pushing it inside utilizing the palm of your hand. Some people do it differently, I do it this way but may change it to another way if I decide it's better. Once again I recommend you do your own research. If done right the tac reload feels kind of like being a crab.
The emergency reload is usually done when the magazine has went empty in the middle of combat, your maximum priority is to get that weapon up again as fast as possible so it is a very fast reload. It's disadvantage is that contrary to the other two previous reloads you leave that magazine on the ground, as well as any ammunition left in it if it still had any. It may also be called "speed reload".
Now some tips that apply or partially apply to all of these reloads. For pistols pick up, insert into the weapon or back into your kit the magazines holding them with your thumb, index and middle fingers doing something akin to a pincer like shape with your hand, with the index at the front, thumb at the back and middle finger holding at the side of the magazine for support, the top of the mag to the outside and the underside of the mag to the hand's side. All your mags should be positioned on your kit in a way that let's you pick them up like this as it let's you easily put the mag into the weapon. Another tip is that modern pistols tend to have a feature that when they run dry the slide will lock to the rear, after you get rid off the old mag and put a fresh one in you will have two options. One option is to rack the slide back and let it fall into place. The other option is to simply press the slide lock button to let the slide fall back into place. I personally prefer to just use the button, but you could rack the slide if you want, however, do let the slide fall back on it's own, not doing so and instead holding it so it slowly falls back into place could result in a malfunction depending on factors like how clean your pistol is or what ammo you are using. On some airsoft pistols using the slide lock button could result in it wearing out due to things related to the materials used to construct the replica, if it does wear out the slide will no longer lock to the rear when out of ammo so in that case I recommend that you just rack the slide so the button isn't damaged. When reloading you want to keep situational awareness, this means that ideally you don't want to look down to reload, so take your pistol and bring it to the work zone and closer to your face while rotating it a bit, not in the center of your vision though, just a bit to the side, this helps line up the magwell with the path of the magazine and also let's you keep some vision and attention towards the target, this is more of a guideline however so if you're tapping your kit trying to find your magazine then actually look at it so you can reload faster instead of starring at your enemy. Last tip is that reloading quickly is nice but when inserting the magazine into the weapon I recommend that you slow down and maybe glance at the magwell as going full speed and not looking will probably result in you missing the magwell and dropping the magazine on the ground making it much slower than just slowing down a bit on that last section.
Malfunctions:
There are three main types of malfunctions you may find on a pistol. A failure to feed, a failure to fire and a failure to eject. These can occur on other types of firearms as well but we'll only be talking about pistols and once again you'll just have to adapt it to your particular firearm.
A failure to feed occurs when you or the pistol have failed to properly chamber a round. You can identify this malfunction by trying to fire a round but only hearing a click instead of a bang or nothing at all along with a usually soft mushy trigger if you have forgotten to even rack the slide. This malfunction can be solved giving a good tap on the magazine to make sure it's properly inserted into the weapon followed by racking the slide.
A failure to fire occurs when a round is chambered properly, the trigger mechanism works as it should but the round itself is a dud, usually a bad primer. It can be identified by once again hearing a click instead of a bang. It can be difficult to differentiate between a failure to feed and a failure to fire, fortunately for you the way of solving it is the same so it doesn't matter that much. Tap the mag and rack the slide, problem solved. It's said the two scariest sounds ever are a click when you should hear a bang and a bang when you should hear a click.
A failure to eject occurs when a round has been fired but the gun has failed to properly throw that round out to make way for a new round. You can identify it by the usually soft mushy trigger and by looking at the chamber and seeing that it's partially open, sometimes even able to see the stuck round in there. To solve it you'll want to lock the slide to the rear, remove the magazine, send the slide back forwards, reinsert the magazine and rack the slide.
A less talked about malfunction is a failure to eject the magazine when pressing the mag release button. This can be a critical problem when trying to reload in the middle of combat. You may not even be able to manually pull off the spent mag as you may have already grabbed a new one with your off hand. Fortunately for you this can also be easily solved by holding the mag release button and at the same time hitting the wrist of the pistol's hand into the inner elbow of your off hand arm, the impact should be enough to throw the spent mag away, from there continue the reload as normal. This can be called "chopping out" the magazine.
Inspection/four corner check:
Inspection or the four corner check is the action of looking and scanning around you to keep situational awareness. It can be done in time intervals, whenever you remember to do it or after some significant action, like moving from one position to another, reloading or ending a threat or group of threats, the idea being to avoid things like hyper focusing only on what's in front of you and end up getting shot or stabbed from behind. It is done by pointing your weapon down and using your knees, hips, torso and neck to turn all the way to one side so you can look behind you, you will then turn as slow as necessary to comprehend what you are seeing and go all the way to the other side, giving you a 360 degrees scan of your situation. Of course, in certain scenarios you won't be able to be slow and methodical, there you may opt to not look at all or look very quickly and just scan for any obvious silhouettes, simply accepting that you may not have seen something you needed to see. I personally do it from right to left but you can do it from left to right if you want, obviously if you have some indication that something may be coming from one side, like a sound for example, you should obviously begin with said side.
Doing it all while crouched:
All of this can be done while crouched with minimal adjustment, we'll only be talking about the crouching stances as the rest you can easily figure out by yourself.
The first crouching stance is a more usual one, it has a taller profile but much more stability. It can be achieved by bending both knees 90 degrees, one in front of your torso the other on the ground, back foot placed as you prefer. The legs are spaced as needed to keep your balance. The torso is kept upright unless you need to have a smaller profile for some reason, hiding behind a piece of cover for example.
The second crouching stance is the low crouch from the blogpost about crouched movement. It's less stable of a platform to shoot but since that is the idle crouched position that you may spend quite a lot of time on you may have to shoot from it at some point. Put your feet at a fighting stance but without spacing them out more than normal and lower yourself until you are sitting on the heel of the back foot, no need to lower your back too much so as to not curve your spine too much. Your hands are kept free.
Drills:
Now for some drills to train all of these skills. Typically the more focused you are on a certain task the faster you will get better at that particular thing. For example, instead of training a whole draw you may want to do some repetitions of simply getting a good grip on your pistol from your holster, then some more repetitions of getting the pistol out of the holster, then some of bringing the pistol to the work zone and getting a two handed grip, that sort of stuff, segmentation of a drill. The problem with that is it tends to become boring rather quickly and because of that it loses it's advantage of focus, so you may want to do some longer stuff as well even if you are just beginning. I will only be giving the instructions for whole drills, if you want to segment their steps feel free to do so. You may also wonder "Should I go for precision or speed?" And well, ideally you should go for both as it doesn't matter if you can unholster and fire your weapon in 0.001 seconds if all your shots miss the target and it also doesn't matter if you can hit the target exactly where you want if it takes 30 seconds to do that. But at the beginning be as slow as necessary and with time and practice you will be able to perform correctly at higher speeds. If you do speed it up and mistakes become a pattern slow down again and correct those mistakes, then try to speed it up again. All drills are to be practiced with proper stance unless stated the contrary. Remember to mark the hits in some way so you don't confuse them with new hits in the future, I used a green sharpie for this and marked the hits with a circle around them. If your training gun has misaligned sights that you know are misaligned because you've got someone who knows how to shoot to test it and got the same results I recommend you to continue aiming the training gun as if that wasn't a problem and when the time comes to check hits you just mentally correct where the impacts would have been if it were not for the crooked sights, you must do this because you don't want to ingrain into your mind to always aim a bit to the sides as when you pick a real gun that instinct will still be there and cause you to miss.
The first drill you should do is simple target shooting so you can train sight alignment and trigger control. Simply load your magazine, form a two handed grip, align your sights with your eye and target and pull the trigger without disturbing the sights. Stop every five rounds or so to check your hits on target and make sure you're not committing some mistake. You can begin with the target at 3 meters and get to longer distances as you improve, this applies to other drills as well so it won't be repeated. If you can't have the target be further away then you could try making the target smaller. Do only this for the first and second day, it gets a bit boring but it really helps you improve. Don't get discouraged if you struggle at first, that is normal. I myself began by taking 10 seconds to properly line up a shot.
The second drill is the short target acquisition drill. Bring your pistol to the aiming line, the imaginary line between your eye and the target, and tilt the pistol's barrel 30 degrees to one of four directions, either up, down, left or right, your objective is to align the sights with the target, fire one round and revert back to the tilted barrel position so you can do it again. Pick a direction and do at least 10 repetitions on that tilt so you can build muscle memory. Remember to keep your finger off the trigger when not in the process of aligning the sights with the target, specially when the barrel is pointed upwards.
The third drill you should train is the longer target acquisition drill. Get into stance and from low or high ready bring the sights to be aligned with your eye and target and fire one round, then revert back to the initial position so you can do it again. Again, as an end goal you should be able to do this really quickly but at the beginning go as slow as necessary.
The fourth drill is the draw drill. You will begin either in stance or out of stance and try to get onto stance when the drill begins, though I recommend doing the latter only after doing the former a few times. You will unholster your weapon, form a two handed grip, bring the pistol up lining the sights with your eye and target and fire a shot, after that you will re holster your weapon so you can do the drill again.
The fifth drill is the recoil drill. The drill begins with the weapon at the aiming line. You will aim at the target and fire a short burst of 4 to 6 shots, from there end the drill, go mark your hits and return to the initial position to do the drill again if desired. Your objective is to control the recoil and get acceptable hits on target. This drill really shows if you are gripping your gun effectively as if you are not it is likely you will see your grip dissolve, something you don't get with the other drills where you will be mostly kept at a slow rate of fire.
The sixth drill is the reload drill. The drill begins with the weapon at the aiming line. You will bring the pistol to the work zone, perform whatever reload you wish to train and bring the pistol back to the aiming line. This drill is to be performed without ammo as it doesn't involve shooting. Additionally, I recommend doing this on top of some soft surface as you may unintentionally drop the magazine on the ground or intentionally drop it in the case of the emergency reload, enough drops and that mag will break, I'd say you can even do this drill sitting on your bed with a pillow on your lap as the big focus of this drill is on your hands and eyes instead of anywhere else on the body. I personally give the most attention to the tactical reload as it is the hardest to do but with more benefits than the regular and also because I can't afford to leave magazines behind, also the emergency reload has the same critical steps so in a way you are training for it as well.
The seventh drill is the inspection/four corner check drill. You begin at high or low ready, sight in your weapon and fire a shot at the target, after that bring and point your weapon down and perform an inspection, from there end the drill or reengage the target to do the drill again. Additionally, after becoming proficient at the other drills you may want to introduce the inspection at the end of them as well to further ingrain it into your brain so you never forget to do it.
The eighth drill is the big drill. It's a combination of all previous drills, it hasn't got much focus on anything but it is very fun so it can be done at a huge scale, I can do it for hours just because I really like doing it. Draw your weapon, form a two handed grip, bring it to alignment, fire one round at the target, reload, bring it back to alignment, fire another round, perform an inspection, put your weapon back in the holster and go verify the hits on target, go back to the initial position if you want to repeat it. Again, it is inefficient in the sense that you don't put most of your focus on learning a single thing but because you can do it a hundred times in a day you do still end up learning a lot.
The ninth drill is the target transition drill. You begin at high or low ready, aim and fire one round at the first target then immediately aim and fire another one at the second target, from there end the drill or reengage the first target to continue the drill until you are satisfied or out of ammo in your magazine, do one drill with your body pointed at the target to the left, one to the right and one between them, you can also do two shots per target if you want. You can begin with the targets right beside each other and slowly space them apart as you get better or you could just begin with them spaced by 45 degrees on some sessions and 90 degrees on other sessions, whichever you prefer.
The tenth drill is the color target transition drill. You will use a target with four colors, could be numbers or symbols as well. Begin at high or low ready, think of a sequence, for example, green then yellow, or blue then red then yellow then blue again, whatever you can think of that you are capable of remembering, you can also do things like two shots per color, then engage the targets in that sequence, after that end the drill, repeat as desired. Alternatively you could look up "soccer awareness colors" on YouTube, pick some video you think will work, find a way to leave your phone close enough to the center of your vision so that you can see the colors changing and engage the colors as they appear until you run out of ammo on your magazine, use the video speed function to make it easier or harder to keep up. I didn't really like this drill that much as I only thought of it when I had already gotten pretty good at target transitions so I thought it was too easy, but I think it could be pretty interesting at the beginning or as a final test to see if you have really gotten good.
For malfunctions, during all these drills and training you will inevitably run into them, solve the malfunction and carry on with the normal drill. You should do a few minutes of doing the process of solving them for training specifically for malfunctions as well.
Additionally I recommend that after you have done and gotten good at those basic drills check out the Drill app, it has a lot of cool basic drills, in fact some of the drills presented here come from there.
Here are the links for it:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... =web_share
https://appdrills.com/
A important note is that for some reason some drills say they require way more equipment than they actually require, I suspect it's because some content isn't implemented yet but for now you should be able to get by with a gun, two magazines, ammo, a holster and a target, sometimes two. Another important note is that you only have access to dry fire drills without a subscription, they can't stop you from using those drills in a live fire capacity however so fire away! Other than that follow their instructions and have fun!
Another good source of drills to check out is the T.Rex Arms website.
Here's the link:
https://www.trex-arms.com/training-targ ... l5jWkblg.1
They also have many other training resources that I recommend checking out, mostly in video format. Once again follow their instructions and have fun.
Let's talk about targets, specifically how to make them in case you don't want or know where to buy them.
By far the easiest and most practical design I've found is simply taking a cardboard box, preferably a thin one the sort that gets used to package televisions, and simply taping a paper target to it. The box will get holes into it but the holes will mostly be in the same area so it won't affect it's structural stability meaning the only thing you have to replace is the paper target you tape to it. You should replace the paper target when it becomes hard to distinguish new hits from old hits. You can acquire a box by going to some store or super market and asking to buy the ones that came packaging their products. Additionally, if using it for airsoft you might want to consider putting an old pillow inside as that will stop the BBs from coming out the other side, they may be plastic but with enough hits they will make a hole in your wall, I say this as someone with two new holes on my wall. Woops.
As for the paper target, for the purposes of learning basic shooting I recommend using a simple bullseye target instead of some silhouette target, you can just look them up on the internet, download a high definition one you like and print them. If you don't have a printer I recommend getting a red sharpie and drawing a cross on the paper, make it as thick as necessary for you to see it at the distance you are shooting.
This setup by itself will be as tall as your knees, you want to bring it up to the height of the average person, to do that if at your own property and not a public range simply stack objects on top of each other and put the target on top of it all.
Of course, you could also make a more professional looking thing out of wood, but if you can think of that then I probably don't need to tell you how to do it.
Now let's talk in a simplified way about ballistics, more specifically the material penetration portion of ballistics.
We don't have the time to go over how every cartridge behaves in relation to different levels of armor but I can tell you factors that help or hinder in the penetration of materials and you can use that information to recognize cartridges with good capability yourself. The following is presented in no particular order.
Things that help with piercing armor are:
Projectile velocity. A .45 round is very slow when compared to a 5.7 round for example, this is a major contributor for why .45 really struggles with penetrating armor.
Hardness. A projectile made of lead or copper is soft when compared to a projectile with a steel core penetrator, that is, a projectile with a chunk of steel inside, that along with other factors make the steel core round much better for penetrating armor.
Density and weight. Another attribute that helps a steel core penetrator projectile is that steel is a much denser material than copper. In case you don't know what density is basically the denser a material is the less space it occupies to reach a given amount of weight, a kilogram of feathers occupies much more space than a kilogram of steel. This means that the steel penetrator projectile gives a "stronger punch" than a copper projectile while still concentrating all that power on the same small area. Lead is denser than steel but again, it is softer so more prone to deforming on impact without doing much damage.
For materials like drywall, wood and bricks are similar to body armor but slightly different as certain values are more important in that case. For example both being common rounds without steel core penetrators a 7.62x51 cartridge will struggle more against body armor than a 5.56x45 because it is slower but will be much better at destroying bricks than the 5.56 because it is heavier. Other factors are also involved but I want to keep it simple as this isn't much of an explanation but more of an addendum to inform that factors are not the same for body armor and more common materials.
Things that hinder penetration are:
Angle of impact. Hitting armor or a wall head on has better chances of piercing it than hitting it at an angle as angling helps deflect the projectile.
Distance. Hitting armor or a wall at 5 meters is not the same as hitting it at 500 meters as the more distance a projectile travels the more it looses it's energy due to factors like wind resistance.
Previous layers. If a projectile that is rated to pierce a certain level of armor has already traveled through a wall it may have lost enough of it's energy to not be able to pierce that armor any longer.
Projectile shape. Typically a hollow point projectile will struggle more with penetrating materials when compared to FMJ as it is designed to transfer it's energy and stop inside the target. In layman's terms if the bullet is pointy it can probably go through more stuff than a non pointy bullet of the same caliber.
Now let's talk about fighting people with body armor. When you pull a gun on a person in self defense you don't necessarily have to kill that person, you probably will, but your intent is generally to make that person not a threat anymore by whatever means necessary. A person ceasing to be a threat can end in one of two ways, a psychological stop or a physical stop. A psychological stop happens when the person surrenders or runs away, either immediately upon seeing the weapon or after having some wound and pain inflicted upon them. A physical stop happens when the person becomes incapable of being a threat, because it's brain exploded, it bled out to the point of unconsciousness or it became incapable of stabbing or pulling a trigger. Generally speaking a physical stop is much more reliable than a psychological stop. Armor is a problem because it makes it very hard to hit where you have great chances of reaching a physical stop, among other complications this makes it so that the threat may have some extra time to fight back, possibly by shooting at you.
Typically most ballistic helmets and soft armor are level 3A, that means they will stop all the most common handgun calibers provided it's not some special armor piercing ammo of course. Then you have plate armor, they will usually be at least 3A but can go higher and stop most rifle rounds including 5.56 green tip, a 5.56 round with a steel core penetrator. There are more factors to hitting armor than just penetration. There's backface deformation, the armor stops the projectile but it's energy is enough to push the armor towards the wearer and break his ribs or skull. There's the energy transfer, the armor stops the projectile but the force applied to the wearer's head is enough to knock him out for some time. These factors exist but relying on them is pretty much trusting random chance. The enemy may be knocked out because he got shot in the back of his helmet or maybe he won't. The enemy may disengage from getting his ribs broken or he may not even notice he got shot because the adrenaline made him not feel any pain. Overall I'd just recommend not shooting at armor and instead aim for something else.
If you are using a gun that fires handgun calibers it's best to assume you can't get through any armor. If using a rifle you can assume you can get through soft armor but plates are up to question, also some vests allow the user to use soft or plate armor so there's even more doubt. Some knowledge and intel on your opposing force might help with that, for example usually average street policemen use soft 3A armor while the SWAT units use rifle rated plates, sometimes even rifle rated helmets that aren't really comfortable due to being too heavy but that's not a problem for them since they'll just wear it for a one hour raid. Regardless, here are some basic and brief instructions on what to do if fighting people with armor you can't pierce.
If the enemy is wearing just a vest aim for his head, more specifically the center upper half of his head where the brain lies, a hit to the brain stem will instantly take someone out.
If an enemy is wearing just a helmet aim for center mass, put as many shots there as is necessary to make him not a threat anymore. The heart is a bit above the nipple line and close to his center vertical line but a slight bit to the side. It's not instant death but it's as fast as you can get without being able to target the head.
If an enemy is wearing a helmet and vest you could try to hit his neck bone as there is a significant chance damage to that will result in immediate paralysis, it's a small target so good luck though. Another target would be the pelvis to try damage his mobility so you can run away and disengage or try to flank him, legs could have a similar effect. A hit to the arm or shoulder could make him unable to pull the trigger because of damage to the muscles and tendons.
A gunfight is very fast and dynamic, you'll probably not be able to execute your perfect plan to neutralize the target as fast as possible and will have to just wing it, but now you at least know some alternatives that are likely better than hitting armor and doing little to no damage.
You could also just try to mag dump on the armor as well, those things aren't magical and do have limits on how many rounds they can stop, but again not very reliable.
Now I'd like to address certain concerns and sometimes outright disdain and snobbishness some people in the firearms community feel towards things like airsoft despite quite a lot of knowledgeable and influential people in the firearms community having already stated favorable opinions towards it as one can see in the source section. But I'd still like to give my own take on it despite knowing that I have very little chance of success in convincing those people if they weren't already convinced by people with way more authority than me.
Certain people claim airsoft is unrealistic, that you can't learn anything good from it, that it's merely toys that serve no practical purpose, that it's LARPing and cringe, some don't even state a reason and just seem to hate it without explanation, all of this despite airsoft actively being used for training by police and military.
Let's say you are the best case scenario. You live in the United States where guns and ammunition are relatively cheap and easily accessible, you have your own select group of friends that can all regularly get together at your own private compound to train and spend thousands of live rounds, you all also have training conversion kits for your guns and training ammo to do force on force training on a controlled environment. Cool. That is very nice. However, the vast majority of people are not in that situation. The vast majority of people do not live in the US, they do not have a group of friends who all like guns and training, do not have their own dedicated place for training, can't spend the price of a brand new car on ammunition to do thousands of repetitions of drills, they can't even buy conversion kits and training ammo to use on their real guns, hell maybe they can't even own a real gun right now for whatever reason.
What most people can easily do however is buy an airsoft gun, buy thousands of BBs so they can do thousands of repetitions of drills on their own home, go out to some airsoft field and meet with randoms to practice force on force, maybe even become friends with some of these randoms and do more in depth training with them. If they can't own a gun right now in the future when they do get one they already have some training. Alternatives for training that aren't real guns may not be the most ideal, realistic and perfect solution but they are something and something is better than nothing, sometimes that's all some people can get at the moment so please, don't be a gatekeeping elitist.
A major reason for the existence of this guide is to provide solutions for people who want to get better at the use of firearms but aren't on an ideal position for that and may need to improvise.
With that being said, a lot of training value you get out of things like airsoft depend on how much of a focus on training you put into it in the first place. If you are running your actual kit that you would actually use and doing only things you would actually do on a real scenario then you will learn a lot. Conversely if you are running a speedsofting kit and running around trying to dodge bullets, treating it more as a fun game than a training and learning opportunity then you will obviously not learn a lot.
Try to keep in mind the inherent inaccuracies and limitations of the simulation you are using to train that you will inevitably encounter and probably have to partake in so as to not be too limited, just say to yourself "I would not be able to do this in real life" and carry on, it is what it is. You may hide behind a bush because that's enough to stop BBs, you may cross an open field because your enemies are 200 meters away and their BBs can't reach you, you may brush off a grenade because you were 6 meters away instead of 5, just keep in mind that in reality bushes are only concealment, rifles can easily make 200 meter shots and grenades can throw lethal fragments to a range way beyond the five meters your local field says it counts.
Maybe try to implement things you've learned here or somewhere else, for example consider what replica you are using and what body armor that would be able to pierce in reality, then try to only hit unarmored areas if you can't pierce a particular enemy's armor. That might make things harder for you but again, you get the training value at the rate you put in focus on training. Another thing you can sometimes see in things like airsoft is people using kits from the past. I'd say that has some potential for learning as it's pretty much a peek at previous conflicts that could give you some insight that could be applied to your more modern kit, just keep in mind that the money you spend on getting a perfect world war one kit may have been better spent on other stuff.
Generally as the fields and engagement distances expand you lose accuracy and realism in terms of direct combat but you do end up being able to practice other interesting skills like land navigation, coordination, ambushes and even stealth and infiltration since your opponents won't always be expecting contact. Smaller fields more realistic combat, larger fields more freedom of action.
Now some very basic and general combat tips.
Know the difference between cover and concealment. Cover provides protection from getting shot and generally hides you from view. Concealment only hides you from view. A thick tree is cover, a bush is concealment. A car's front where the engine is is cover, a car's door is concealment. A brick wall is cover, a wooden door or table is concealment. Bullet proof glass is cover, regular glass with a dark film is concealment. Also remember that cover is relative and what stops a pistol may not stop a rifle or a .50 cal and act according to what you are fighting against. Another thing is that cover degrades, even the sturdiest brick wall will break after enough damage.
Don't stand in the open where you are an easy target, get to cover or at the very least concealment, if none of that is available try to make yourself smaller by going prone. Obviously if the threat is right in front of you, the cover way behind you and it makes more sense to just shoot instead of running for cover or going prone then this tip doesn't apply.
When in cover avoid getting right up against it or having your back facing it, prefer to stay at least about an arms length away from it so you keep situational awareness by not having everything you see be wall and don't face away from the threat.
When popping out of cover to shoot back try to expose as little of you as possible. Avoid popping out from the top as that exposes you to way too many angles at once, give preference to popping out from the sides. When popping out from the side avoid always popping out of the same side as your enemy may be looking there and waiting for you to pop out, if there is nowhere else available to pop out try to change your height by crouching or retreat to another piece of cover.
If you need to reload or solve a malfunction then obviously get back into cover.
This is dependent of situation but if applicable avoid staying on the same piece of cover for too long as you might get flanked.
Try to avoid moving without your gun being ready to fire, as in no ammo, jammed or not in your hand, as if danger suddenly appears you may not be able to respond. Of course if you are in immediate danger and need to move then obviously move. This and other tips are more like guidelines to be applied and adapted depending on context.
Keep situational awareness and avoid hyper focusing if you're not with a team that is covering your flanks for you.
Try to keep calm and not panic, you probably won't be able to but at least try. Having previous exposure to stress may help.
Understand and accept that you may possibly, maybe probably get shot and killed. It is what it is.
Sources:
On dry firing:
https://youtu.be/YOc0K-nIESk
https://youtu.be/lYJk_ioERK8
https://youtu.be/1OwCjuUNs0M
https://youtu.be/-6uHjvTsMNc
On guns:
https://youtu.be/hJdv5uTtFJ8
On safety:
https://www.headphonesty.com/2023/06/no ... -shooting/
The Drill app.
On training:
https://youtu.be/DV_WTsF_7kM
https://youtu.be/CDB8sDwwWwU
https://youtu.be/BypuKXOmEkg
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... nMGXi56TQl
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... B9Lt341HH-
https://youtu.be/6lMYzJpD4n8
https://youtu.be/YS6Vk2vPuYA
https://youtu.be/f7PVB-PF0iE
https://youtu.be/OeC5ye6DtdI
https://youtu.be/bElcXjJ5iII
The Drill app.
On ballistics:
https://youtu.be/j3BlRPtCj2E
https://youtu.be/7VeqqNuQU_4
https://youtu.be/-4Qi_Fr9Bbg
https://youtu.be/eF29mvSmbWM
https://youtu.be/ia1k1Zg4l2A
https://youtu.be/6JwlzR5nPFw
https://youtu.be/4qSVOZfp3R4
https://youtu.be/urWDf8DoI3M
https://youtu.be/d9Og2YeSGVY
https://youtu.be/bKQizbg1zBw
https://youtu.be/SwDoWSkiGZ4
https://youtu.be/i0x-aFVMcko
https://youtu.be/3vhjP1WKD-k
On anatomy:
https://youtu.be/uWR3LHEjRAE
https://youtu.be/T85RSuPeQoA
https://youtu.be/r-PrC_OsfJQ
https://youtu.be/AIULDPGDolQ
On airsoft:
https://youtu.be/qQDfwyUgtjg
https://youtu.be/a1y8ENfbaig
https://youtu.be/Chtb6bvNcxc
https://youtu.be/ECGxVlh4kFY
https://youtu.be/CnF5ui73Osg
https://youtu.be/Z_N3Zf5CnVQ
https://youtu.be/dKcdz-pxF7I
https://youtu.be/kx9dkCAHZyM
https://www.reddit.com/r/airsoft/commen ... th_airsoft
On combat:
https://youtu.be/Us-w6569cm8
https://youtu.be/K0SjIC1gYTA
https://youtu.be/vIJJCSs0SP8
https://youtu.be/DlNHy40LqzE
https://youtu.be/RARNJwzKmps
https://youtu.be/ofwUAkcpzDY
https://youtu.be/XavAanwtoww
https://youtu.be/tCq7pEtSIV4
https://youtu.be/pGs_2eYGyw8
Man this took a very long time to write, ignoring various setbacks like the airsoft gun breaking and having to take it to a repairman actual training time took only 5 weeks, hours per day varying a lot, from one hour all the way to 8. I'd say it was time extremely well spent since in this relatively short time I went from really bad to good.
If I have forgotten the source for something feel free to say and if it isn't something that I have forgotten where I've learned it from I'll edit the post to add it.
Next up I'll probably do crouched wall movement, not right now though, right now I want to take a break from writing not this wall, but an entire skyscraper of text, probably a week or two. As for combat related stuff I'll probably do shooting while moving next.
End of blogpost.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
Fixed the images not annexing properly. Also would like to recommend that you actually go check out the sources as they have much more in depth information with video. Also check out their other content that is also really good and informative.
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- Psychlonic
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Re: Blogposting
Might as well, SG is already a pit of buzzwords and phrases for the search engine bots to pick up on and make the forum look far sketchier than it's actually supposed to be. That post This whole topic has an uncanny variety of them.
lol fucking christ. Let's rack'em up:
This topic belongs in Bad Ideas. Guys, this website and being an "operator" isn't about becoming a violent criminal because you don't want a 9-5. It's purely about sneaking unnoticed at night time. Sneaking. Not killing unnoticed. Not stealing unnoticed.
Rather, it's not supposed to be, but I guess it's ok now and even advertise yourself on Reddit.
If you guys would prefer a RogueSci clone, right on but this isn't it. I, for one, would prefer not to see the site owner say fuck it and close up shop because some random keeps making new accounts and posting the most extreme [fake or not] content possible. It's 2023, dudes. Honestly, if there's anyone that can't accept the reasonability of that stance then I can only assume you're trolling or actively trying to get the website taken down.
Edit: Edgyman, I do get that you yourself appear to simply be trying to better yourself in your own way and I have no personal issue with that. You did make it clear this is just general blogposting. However, the nature of this topic has sort of slid into BI territory and should probably be moved there by staff.
lol fucking christ. Let's rack'em up:
paranoid schizophrenic
suppressed firearms with heavy ball ammo
recon aircraft
linear shaped charges
long guns
violence of action
law enforcement agency
police
leaks
Live feeds
censor
recording or documenting
Area 51
my operations are national in scope
I steal from weak losers
Georgia Guidestones
solvent traps
ANNM
killed
zero trust environment
... honestly at this point I've only made it like 1/8 down my scroll bar so I'm skipping ahead to some more recent laughs.paydays
nuclear bomb
Shooting done
There's too much. I've left most of them out.penetrate armor
This topic belongs in Bad Ideas. Guys, this website and being an "operator" isn't about becoming a violent criminal because you don't want a 9-5. It's purely about sneaking unnoticed at night time. Sneaking. Not killing unnoticed. Not stealing unnoticed.
Rather, it's not supposed to be, but I guess it's ok now and even advertise yourself on Reddit.
If you guys would prefer a RogueSci clone, right on but this isn't it. I, for one, would prefer not to see the site owner say fuck it and close up shop because some random keeps making new accounts and posting the most extreme [fake or not] content possible. It's 2023, dudes. Honestly, if there's anyone that can't accept the reasonability of that stance then I can only assume you're trolling or actively trying to get the website taken down.
Edit: Edgyman, I do get that you yourself appear to simply be trying to better yourself in your own way and I have no personal issue with that. You did make it clear this is just general blogposting. However, the nature of this topic has sort of slid into BI territory and should probably be moved there by staff.
Knowledge alone is not power, it is the potential for power. That potential can only be unlocked through applying that knowledge and realizing the skill.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
Well this thread exists because I wanted to get more into stealth sneaky urban exploration stuff but I thought that maybe being trained in some way would significantly lower the chances of goofing something up and getting caught. Problem is I didn't know very well where to begin as there isn't much content about this sort of stuff out there so I decided to pick videogame characters and copy their most basic move sets. I've named it after Garret from Thief because he has the most basic abilities when compared to the guy who can climb pipes with ease and the guy who takes down giant robots. Now you may say "But Garret doesn't use a gun" well yes but he has a ranged attack in the form of a bow but I'm not gonna learn how to use a bow in 2023 so I just went to the modern way of poking holes at distance. But back on topic. Since I didn't have much else to go on about besides "the move kinda looks like this and does this" I needed to figure it out and develop it by myself. I thought the best way to do that would be to focus on a group of moves for a set period of time and then move on to the next group, but by the time I'm finished I may have already forgotten how to do the previous stuff, so I decided to note what I've learned in the form of a report tutorial thing so that future me can read it when the time to revise everything comes. Since I'm already making a tutorial thing I might as well post it on the forum for discussion about stealth since I can't get the Telegram channel up, that way I can get tips from other people and maybe others can learn as well.
"But why do the violent stuff at all since it's just about sneaking and urban exploration?"
1. Fun! Also looks cool.
2. Airsoft, that I also have an interest in.
3. All those characters have those moves or something similar to them so in a way it would be kind of like skipping leg day.
Now I might have went a bit overboard as a result of going full autism on a subject I love but... At least it's very complete.
I'm not saying it should be done, because it kind of is censorship that I don't like, but I would prefer if the discussion with the Basewatcher guy was moved to some other topic or deleted because it more or less derails my topic for a good portion of it.
I also know that the latest blogpost is kind of sus in a way but you can see that I'm well intentioned because of all the other posts about more normal sounding stuff.
"But why do the violent stuff at all since it's just about sneaking and urban exploration?"
1. Fun! Also looks cool.
2. Airsoft, that I also have an interest in.
3. All those characters have those moves or something similar to them so in a way it would be kind of like skipping leg day.
Now I might have went a bit overboard as a result of going full autism on a subject I love but... At least it's very complete.
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
I'm not saying it should be done, because it kind of is censorship that I don't like, but I would prefer if the discussion with the Basewatcher guy was moved to some other topic or deleted because it more or less derails my topic for a good portion of it.
I also know that the latest blogpost is kind of sus in a way but you can see that I'm well intentioned because of all the other posts about more normal sounding stuff.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
Oh you edited your post while I was typing.
I don't think this has shifted into a BI topic, the latest entry of mine is just information on firearms, none of this is illegal, if anything it should go on TANO as it's a bunch on instructional texts. Now yes, I do recognize that things like using the police as an example of opposing force to get intel on seems very sus but I only did that because it's the easiest to understand example that anyone can see on their day to day life as opposed to something like.. The PLA.Psychlonic wrote: ↑Thu Nov 02, 2023 5:21 pmEdit: Edgyman, I do get that you yourself appear to simply be trying to better yourself in your own way and I have no personal issue with that. You did make it clear this is just general blogposting. However, the nature of this topic has sort of slid into BI territory and should probably be moved there by staff.
- Psychlonic
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Re: Blogposting
I think it's fair to say most users have at least an interest in firearms. Most of what's BI-worthy here isn't even your fault either. It's a shame that, as far as I'm aware, individual posts can't be moved into some kind of BI catch-all when they veer a topic in that direction.
Knowledge alone is not power, it is the potential for power. That potential can only be unlocked through applying that knowledge and realizing the skill.
- Mr. Edgyman
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Re: Blogposting
Alright, I don't think I can postpone this any longer, time to talk about Crouched Wall Movement.
You will notice this blogpost and the tips within it will be very similar to the crouched movement and wall movement blogposts, that's obviously because the topic we'll be talking about is pretty much just both of them together. I strongly recommend that you take a look at those two previous posts before reading this one in case you haven't done so already as some details mentioned there may not be mentioned here again.
First, how to train this.
In materials all you need are shoes if you plan to operate with them and a wall, preferably a longer one so you can move along the wall more without having to change directions too often, walls of different materials would be nice as well, you can use a door to simulate a wooden wall to flatten against if a real wooden wall is not available.
Now time. Since this involves crouching we'll use a similar time schedule as presented in crouched movement so as to avoid knee pain, but this time even lazier. One day of training, one or if necessary more of rest. A leg day at the gym counts as a training day. Cardio does not count as a training day unless it's something like going up and down stairs. A training day shall not exceed two hours of active training. If excessive knee pain is felt you must cut the day short. You will train for five minutes and rest for at least five minutes. Once again if you feel tired during training time you must rest while the clock is ticking, as the days pass this gives time for your body to adapt and it's a good metric on how well you have improved.
Now a broad suggestion on how the training days should be spent. First and second day you should spend learning how to flatten with the wall starting with your back towards the wall. Second and fourth with a side to the wall start. Fifth and sixth with a front towards the wall start. Seventh and eighth focus on learning how to change directions. After that just spend the first ten or so minutes of active training time doing some reps of flattening to the wall and spend the rest of the time working on moving along with the wall as well as changing directions when needed, this should last another 7 days at most to get good at for most people I think. Of course, this isn't strict. If you feel like you're sufficiently good on a subject you can just go to the next one. If you would also like to try something out before schedule feel completely free to do so, I'm pretty sure some early familiarization helps with learning it later on. I've worked on all of this while on a high, mid and low crouch, but I'm pretty sure that about 80% of my effort was focused on the low crouch as it's the most difficult, I recommend doing this as well. Remember, this may seem like too much time but the training isn't just about executing the techniques, it's about executing them silently and that takes more time to get good at.
Let's now talk about technique.
First we must establish what technique we'll be using. The first one that comes to mind kind of looks like a slav squat with your back pressed against the wall. I personally didn't like it because it's really hard to maintain, even harder to move with and the knees and legs sticking out forwards kind of defeat the point, so I quickly discarded it in favor of the next technique. The technique I chose is basically just adapting the crouches from crouched movement to function while up against or really close to a wall. It's limitation is that contrary to the squat method this is directional, as in your body faces either left or right and changing directions can be a bit troublesome.
The high wall crouch. Can be achieved by putting at least half your back against the wall with the rest being very close, meaning your torso is facing a bit to the side. Bending your knees a bit while your feet face the direction you want to face, the back one angled instead of being almost in line with the wall, your feet don't touch the wall but are instead kept a few centimeters away as fully flattening them leads to poor balance. Lower your back and neck very slightly. If possible make some effort to keep your shoulder that is away from your facing forced closer to the wall, this can get very tiring and painful after not too long though so maybe you can skip out on that. If your hands are free and available keep your palms against the wall as well for extra balance. An important note here is to make sure you aren't slanted, that is, make sure you aren't tipping over and your center of gravity isn't too much to the left or right.
To move on a high wall crouch you must first make sure you aren't actually flattened against the wall but instead just very close as having your body against it while moving leads to a scraping noise and if the wall isn't smooth it can also shred your clothes. If noise isn't a problem and the wall is smooth you can just continue to lean on it though. As for footwork, it's pretty intuitive, just put one foot in front of the other and repeat until reaching wherever you want, just make sure your legs and clothes aren't scraping against one another as that also leads to noise. Alternatively you can move your feet in a way your legs never cross, just put the front foot forwards and then bring the back foot as well. If by chance you end up with your feet positioned in a way different from the idle position you must try to revert to that. Use your hand for extra balance if available and use it to scout ahead if it's too dark to see, just again watch out for scraping noises. If you need to go back you can either do the process in reverse or change directions.
Changing directions on a high crouch is also intuitive. Just adjust your feet, knees, torso and neck until you are facing the other side.
The mid wall crouch. Pretty much the same as the high but just bend your knees more. The only thing of note is that it's significantly more tiring. Other than that we're skipping to the low crouch. (Though when I do convert this to video I'll make sure to include footage of it)
The low wall crouch. Basically a normal low crouch but very close to a wall. Of note is to always remember to not get your feet too close to the wall so as to leave space for your shoulder, otherwise it will press against the wall too much causing you to lose balance and fall on your side. You can also position your shoulder that is closest to the wall in a way that allows you to get even closer to the wall and also force your other shoulder back, this gives you a slimmer silhouette but tires your shoulders and leads to pain.
The most notable alteration from the one in the crouched movement blogpost is in how you walk, for wall movement I think it's easier to just lift your body a bit to allow your legs to move forwards more freely, simplifying everything. But if you want you could just use the unaltered walking technique. Both methods are very tiring.
Changing directions on a low wall crouch is a bit difficult in practice. You must slowly and step by step turn your feet, knees, legs, torso and head to the other direction, making sure your shoes don't scrape on the ground so as to avoid noise, right in the middle you will be in something akin to a slav squat, just keep going until you're at the idle position again but to the other side. Again very tiring.
The process for getting to the wall is pretty much the same for all crouches, just turn the foot that makes the first step towards the wall in the direction that will help you turn the rest of your body towards the direction you desire, the rest comes intuitively.
Changing between standing and crouched while flattened is so easy that I won't bother with explaining it.
Extra notes:
This time while training flattening I didn't bother to do it while looking in all directions due to the time restrictions imposed by knee pains.
I have determined that changing directions while moving is impossible, you just have to halt to do it.
On the other hand, changing between standing and crouched while flattened is so easy that I decided to not bother with explaining it.
End of notes.
That's basically it. Up next will probably be lock picking. Yes, I have agreed previously that it's a skill better learned over time, but at the moment I'm at a place I can't really do any other type of training for a few weeks so I might as well do some more intense and focused learning, then I'll write a report on it.
End of blogpost.
You will notice this blogpost and the tips within it will be very similar to the crouched movement and wall movement blogposts, that's obviously because the topic we'll be talking about is pretty much just both of them together. I strongly recommend that you take a look at those two previous posts before reading this one in case you haven't done so already as some details mentioned there may not be mentioned here again.
First, how to train this.
In materials all you need are shoes if you plan to operate with them and a wall, preferably a longer one so you can move along the wall more without having to change directions too often, walls of different materials would be nice as well, you can use a door to simulate a wooden wall to flatten against if a real wooden wall is not available.
Now time. Since this involves crouching we'll use a similar time schedule as presented in crouched movement so as to avoid knee pain, but this time even lazier. One day of training, one or if necessary more of rest. A leg day at the gym counts as a training day. Cardio does not count as a training day unless it's something like going up and down stairs. A training day shall not exceed two hours of active training. If excessive knee pain is felt you must cut the day short. You will train for five minutes and rest for at least five minutes. Once again if you feel tired during training time you must rest while the clock is ticking, as the days pass this gives time for your body to adapt and it's a good metric on how well you have improved.
Now a broad suggestion on how the training days should be spent. First and second day you should spend learning how to flatten with the wall starting with your back towards the wall. Second and fourth with a side to the wall start. Fifth and sixth with a front towards the wall start. Seventh and eighth focus on learning how to change directions. After that just spend the first ten or so minutes of active training time doing some reps of flattening to the wall and spend the rest of the time working on moving along with the wall as well as changing directions when needed, this should last another 7 days at most to get good at for most people I think. Of course, this isn't strict. If you feel like you're sufficiently good on a subject you can just go to the next one. If you would also like to try something out before schedule feel completely free to do so, I'm pretty sure some early familiarization helps with learning it later on. I've worked on all of this while on a high, mid and low crouch, but I'm pretty sure that about 80% of my effort was focused on the low crouch as it's the most difficult, I recommend doing this as well. Remember, this may seem like too much time but the training isn't just about executing the techniques, it's about executing them silently and that takes more time to get good at.
Let's now talk about technique.
First we must establish what technique we'll be using. The first one that comes to mind kind of looks like a slav squat with your back pressed against the wall. I personally didn't like it because it's really hard to maintain, even harder to move with and the knees and legs sticking out forwards kind of defeat the point, so I quickly discarded it in favor of the next technique. The technique I chose is basically just adapting the crouches from crouched movement to function while up against or really close to a wall. It's limitation is that contrary to the squat method this is directional, as in your body faces either left or right and changing directions can be a bit troublesome.
The high wall crouch. Can be achieved by putting at least half your back against the wall with the rest being very close, meaning your torso is facing a bit to the side. Bending your knees a bit while your feet face the direction you want to face, the back one angled instead of being almost in line with the wall, your feet don't touch the wall but are instead kept a few centimeters away as fully flattening them leads to poor balance. Lower your back and neck very slightly. If possible make some effort to keep your shoulder that is away from your facing forced closer to the wall, this can get very tiring and painful after not too long though so maybe you can skip out on that. If your hands are free and available keep your palms against the wall as well for extra balance. An important note here is to make sure you aren't slanted, that is, make sure you aren't tipping over and your center of gravity isn't too much to the left or right.
To move on a high wall crouch you must first make sure you aren't actually flattened against the wall but instead just very close as having your body against it while moving leads to a scraping noise and if the wall isn't smooth it can also shred your clothes. If noise isn't a problem and the wall is smooth you can just continue to lean on it though. As for footwork, it's pretty intuitive, just put one foot in front of the other and repeat until reaching wherever you want, just make sure your legs and clothes aren't scraping against one another as that also leads to noise. Alternatively you can move your feet in a way your legs never cross, just put the front foot forwards and then bring the back foot as well. If by chance you end up with your feet positioned in a way different from the idle position you must try to revert to that. Use your hand for extra balance if available and use it to scout ahead if it's too dark to see, just again watch out for scraping noises. If you need to go back you can either do the process in reverse or change directions.
Changing directions on a high crouch is also intuitive. Just adjust your feet, knees, torso and neck until you are facing the other side.
The mid wall crouch. Pretty much the same as the high but just bend your knees more. The only thing of note is that it's significantly more tiring. Other than that we're skipping to the low crouch. (Though when I do convert this to video I'll make sure to include footage of it)
The low wall crouch. Basically a normal low crouch but very close to a wall. Of note is to always remember to not get your feet too close to the wall so as to leave space for your shoulder, otherwise it will press against the wall too much causing you to lose balance and fall on your side. You can also position your shoulder that is closest to the wall in a way that allows you to get even closer to the wall and also force your other shoulder back, this gives you a slimmer silhouette but tires your shoulders and leads to pain.
The most notable alteration from the one in the crouched movement blogpost is in how you walk, for wall movement I think it's easier to just lift your body a bit to allow your legs to move forwards more freely, simplifying everything. But if you want you could just use the unaltered walking technique. Both methods are very tiring.
Changing directions on a low wall crouch is a bit difficult in practice. You must slowly and step by step turn your feet, knees, legs, torso and head to the other direction, making sure your shoes don't scrape on the ground so as to avoid noise, right in the middle you will be in something akin to a slav squat, just keep going until you're at the idle position again but to the other side. Again very tiring.
The process for getting to the wall is pretty much the same for all crouches, just turn the foot that makes the first step towards the wall in the direction that will help you turn the rest of your body towards the direction you desire, the rest comes intuitively.
Changing between standing and crouched while flattened is so easy that I won't bother with explaining it.
Extra notes:
This time while training flattening I didn't bother to do it while looking in all directions due to the time restrictions imposed by knee pains.
I have determined that changing directions while moving is impossible, you just have to halt to do it.
On the other hand, changing between standing and crouched while flattened is so easy that I decided to not bother with explaining it.
End of notes.
That's basically it. Up next will probably be lock picking. Yes, I have agreed previously that it's a skill better learned over time, but at the moment I'm at a place I can't really do any other type of training for a few weeks so I might as well do some more intense and focused learning, then I'll write a report on it.
End of blogpost.