Night Ops

Ok. so i dont have chloroform on my sack (where dogs tend to smell me alot) so i need a better way to quiet dogs so when i sneak into backyards i wont set off a hayday of motherfuckers. Any suggestions/soloutions? i have a dog...im willing to test on him...just nothing that would harm him.
Im ok with temporarly unconsiousizing (w0w Sp) a dog that is not mine

Act friendly and bring some dog treats. Take a handfull and toss them all over the yard. While they are busy finding treats do your thing. Don't forget some treats for the way out.

For black ops.......22 shorts through a pepsi bottle stuffed with cotton.

Ok lets say...these dogs dont liek treats (really they have no sense of fun) any pressure points on dogs. (i could hit with a golf club?) or any known prescription drugs that would make them sleeppy?

-cleaned-

Well. If my theory is correct some how you could harness the gas from oxidizing iron (i think its chloroform) and oyu could probably....well...cool it to the point of liquid...and..uhhh iuno...put it on a musk mix on some clothing and knock them out?

Hang out with them in the day and pass out food if they're not into treats.
Get the dog to recognize you and associate you with good things.
I've done this. Play with a dog in the day, and it won't bother you in the night.
Also when going past dogs don't "sneak" walk and think normally mumble in a low voice if you can without getting caught. Sneaking past dogs in dumb because they can feel it, if you walk past normally they don't sense anything that they suspect. Usually...

yes, thats a great idea, but if were to every dog in Mr. X's neighborhood to get into his house, would be relatively tedious and time consuming, although i am part wolf and get a extra +10% Rep with dogs =P. What im looking for is, temporary unconciousness, with out permanent side effects. has there been any known studies of chloroform on the effects in canines?

You could feed it a small portion of baking chocolate and wait for an hour or two.
But it will indeed kill it depending on how much and the size of the dog.

I'd suggest just giving it a small amount of white chocolate so that way it will just get sick and most likely "stfu."

Of course maybe putting alcohol in its water or putting psychedelic mushrooms in its kibble might work.
^
Just a thought.

Alexander Terror wrote:You could feed it a small portion of baking chocolate and wait for an hour or two.
But it will indeed kill it depending on how much and the size of the dog.

I'd suggest just giving it a small amount of white chocolate so that way it will just get sick and most likely "stfu."

Of course maybe putting alcohol in its water or putting psychedelic mushrooms in its kibble might work.
^
Just a thought.

I've heard of the booze working, and it kicks in very quickly.

I would hate to be the dog that is the end result of this thread, heh heh.

The best way through a dog-controlled area is around the area. My dog ate a bag of chocolate once, and I nearly died of worry that he wouldn't make it. Keep in mind that (in most cases) these are people's pets, before you do anything harsh.

If something must be done, the best method would be to get it to like you. The quickest way to a dog's heart is through its stomach.

-cleaned-

What about regular chloroform? Or just avoiding the thing? Most dogs i've seen are confined to a yard, i've always just planned around them or ignored them.

My only experience with a dog encounter was on a routine forest recon. when the dog barked at me I aimed my BB gun at its muzzle and fired. it yelped, whimpered and gave me no more trouble. at the time it seemed to be effective.

You just make it bark everynight... Give it a week or so and the owners will get fed up with it and eventually bring it in/stop caring about the barking.

The neuro-toxins of the Cane Toad can be used to paralyse most if not all animals.

In order for this to be effective you have to think outside of the box.

There are two poison sacks on the back of the cane toad above it's eyes, by pushing down on these glands and applying a reasonable amount of pressure the glands will release the substances and you can coat your darts with them to be thrown at the dog.

I will be catching some more toads in a few days so I'll be sure to tell you guys how it went

-cleaned-

Edible wouldn't take effect quick enough.The idea of a dart is that the poison is instantly inserted into the blood of a subject, taking effect within a matter f seconds or less.

-cleaned-

the easiest way to deal with a dog is with bitch-in-heat urine. you can keep it in a vial, and carry a rag along to soak with it. it doesn't harm the dog, and completely distracts them. even dogs that are trained specifically for security purposes can't resist it.

Phantom wrote:the easiest way to deal with a dog is with bitch-in-heat urine. you can keep it in a vial, and carry a rag along to soak with it. it doesn't harm the dog, and completely distracts them. even dogs that are trained specifically for security purposes can't resist it.

umm sorry but the idea of having a bottle break and having piss all over my pack and said dog all over me doesn't sound to good. whats worked for me and my opping partner in the past has been 1x1 squares of beef or pork in a sandwich bag doled out to the dog this will be a very quick way to get it to like you enough to let you pass without to much noise

oh and not to start a flame but again collecting urine from a squatting bitch isn't to appealing eigther. but more-over its a good idea in concept

It comes sold in a plastic bottle so you don't have to collect it, and it's not going to break unless you land on top of a rock or something. This has nothing to do with the usefulness, but just getting your facts straightened out.

okay cause from the way I read it my mind perceives "vial" as basically a glass tube, like a test tup basically and how am I to know they sell that. anyway thanks for putting my facts straight

pacu wrote:Act friendly and bring some dog treats. Take a handfull and toss them all over the yard. While they are busy finding treats do your thing. Don't forget some treats for the way out.

For black ops.......22 shorts through a pepsi bottle stuffed with cotton.

add sleeping pills in the treats or just pepper spray the dog.

I just had an idea after i found .22 'snap caps' they are .22 rounds that are fired off of primer... nothing else. They are quiet already so imagine what a silencer would do on a pipe gun... (yes... I know how a silencer works and I'm sure that heat is one of the main noise factors here too.) I bet that would be enough to take out even a large dog with minimal noise.

I will be acquiring these soon, hopefully, to test this theory and I will share my results.

oops just read this part 'Ok. so i dont have chloroform on my sack (where dogs tend to smell me alot) so i need a better way to quiet dogs so when i sneak into backyards i wont set off a hayday of motherfuckers. Any suggestions/soloutions? i have a dog...im willing to test on him...just nothing that would harm him.
Im ok with temporarly unconsiousizing (w0w Sp) a dog that is not mine'

i guess you probably won't be using this even if it does work...

Evil_0ne wrote:so imagine what a silencer would do on a pipe gun... (yes... I know how a silencer works and I'm sure that heat is one of the main noise factors here too.)

How on earth does thermal energy create noise?

hot gas expands. amiright? A silencer can sink some of heat from the gas which reduces pressure that creates the 'bang' noise as the bullet leaves the muzzle. A silencer also allows some of the gas to escape into the chamber instead of all at once to create a much softer sound.

That is my definition. A very short google got me this...


"To fire a bullet from a gun, gunpowder is ignited behind the bullet. The gunpowder creates a high-pressure pulse of hot gas. The pressure of the gas forces the bullet down the barrel of the gun. When the bullet exits the end of the barrel, it is like uncorking a bottle. The pressure behind the bullet is immense, however -- on the order of 3,000 pounds per square inch (psi) -- so the POP that the gun makes as it is uncorked is extremely loud.



A silencer screws on to the end of the barrel and has a huge volume compared to the barrel (20 or 30 times greater). With the silencer in place, the pressurized gas behind the bullet has a big space to expand into. So the pressure of the hot gas falls significantly. When the bullet finally exits through the hole in the silencer, the pressure being uncorked is much, much lower -- perhaps 60 psi. Therefore, the sound of the gun firing is much softer."
-howstuffworks.com

I have used just regular mase or bear mase works better dogs have a far better sense of smell than bears or humans and you only need to use a little of it. If pointed at the dog it will make it hurt to bark and even clog its nose and sting its eyes for a few hours nothing permanent and the dog will leave you alone after the first few time you use it on them.

I highly recommend this its easy and effective and peta approved because the effects are never permanent if anyone gives a rats ass

It really has nothing to do with the heat, just the expansion from the explosion.

The basic laws of physics and heat resistance means that the silencer would barely cool the air at all, probably 10°C max, which would really not make any difference to volume. The bit that does make a difference lets the air burst expand internally rather than externally (nothing to do with heat)

This sounds like its going in the right direction but before you worry about how to shut a dog up, how exactly does one sneak up on a dog to administer any of these remedies . In all my years ive never seen a person beable to sneak up on a dog. It would have to be something before it was schedualed to be let outside. What would interest me more is finding a way to know if you were about to walk up on a dog. In a recent op I ended up face to face with a stray dog in a pitch black room, I dont want it happening again any time soon. Has anyone tried any methods or ways to succesfully get close enough quietly to acctually see a dog before it see or smells you?

hX_ wrote:It really has nothing to do with the heat, just the expansion from the explosion.

The basic laws of physics and heat resistance means that the silencer would barely cool the air at all, probably 10°C max, which would really not make any difference to volume. The bit that does make a difference lets the air burst expand internally rather than externally (nothing to do with heat)

but, what causes the rapid expansion of gasses? heat.
and .22 snap caps are fairly quiet to begin with so a drink bottle silencer should suffice to change the small crack to more of a pop with a less violent sound.

[quote="Blackcell"]This sounds like its going in the right direction but before you worry about how to shut a dog up, how exactly does one sneak up on a dog to administer any of these remedies . In all my years ive never seen a person beable to sneak up on a dog. It would have to be something before it was schedualed to be let outside. What would interest me more is finding a way to know if you were about to walk up on a dog. In a recent op I ended up face to face with a stray dog in a pitch black room, I dont want it happening again any time soon. Has anyone tried any methods or ways to succesfully get close enough quietly to acctually see a dog before it see or smells you?[/quote]

scroll up and youll see my post about pepper spray "mase". Ive found that no matter if the dog sees you or not you always have that 8 foot reach of nasle, lung, and vocal stinging enzymes into a dogs incresed sense of smell that shuts it up

And why would you want to sneak up on a dog anyway, why dont you just try and bypass them alltogether theirs no point in bothering with dogs if their not bothering you to begin with.

I dont personaly like the Idea of shooting anything at a dog espesialy any kind of BB or pellet. If you hit a dog with paintballs, airosoft or anything of the sort, its going to shut it up for a while but then its just going to bark louder. BB's and pellets leave evidence because the dog will be whining or it might have a small peice of metal in its skin.

another I would do is curry powder it might not be as effective as pepper spry but it would work well enough

darkwolf7 wrote:

Blackcell wrote:This sounds like its going in the right direction but before you worry about how to shut a dog up, how exactly does one sneak up on a dog to administer any of these remedies . In all my years ive never seen a person beable to sneak up on a dog. It would have to be something before it was schedualed to be let outside. What would interest me more is finding a way to know if you were about to walk up on a dog. In a recent op I ended up face to face with a stray dog in a pitch black room, I dont want it happening again any time soon. Has anyone tried any methods or ways to succesfully get close enough quietly to acctually see a dog before it see or smells you?

scroll up and youll see my post about pepper spray "mase". Ive found that no matter if the dog sees you or not you always have that 8 foot reach of nasle, lung, and vocal stinging enzymes into a dogs incresed sense of smell that shuts it up

And why would you want to sneak up on a dog anyway, why dont you just try and bypass them alltogether theirs no point in bothering with dogs if their not bothering you to begin with.

I dont personaly like the Idea of shooting anything at a dog espesialy any kind of BB or pellet. If you hit a dog with paintballs, airosoft or anything of the sort, its going to shut it up for a while but then its just going to bark louder. BB's and pellets leave evidence because the dog will be whining or it might have a small peice of metal in its skin.

another I would do is curry powder it might not be as effective as pepper spry but it would work well enough

Im talking about sneaking up on a dog to use something against it. You just pointed out your mace has a 8 foot reach, how do you plan on getting close enough to use it is my point, at 8 feet its pretty pointless the dog knows your there, and would be going crazy. Im saying youd need to lay down something before or after the dog has been out, when the dog is already out its to late to use anything against it.

dogs bark its what they do, that said people only check on dogs if there is prologed barking so a few woofs and then quiet is going to be ignored.

its not that the dog needs to be hit directly with the spray it can be spead around or just drifted in the dogs way I guess I didnt explain this well enough but the spray will reach there noses and mouthes even if it amebas acrossed its yard, this will make it stop barking.

If you know that there is a dog presesnt then why bother it unless you know that there is no way you can get passed it without it making an alarm, even if it does see you if you react fast enough you can hit it with the spray before it can do anything. its pointless to try and put somthing in its water or whatever if you can get it to not bark in the first place by not going near it go in the opposite side of where it is.

honestly

darkwolf7 wrote:dogs bark its what they do, that said people only check on dogs if there is prologed barking so a few woofs and then quiet is going to be ignored.

its not that the dog needs to be hit directly with the spray it can be spead around or just drifted in the dogs way I guess I didnt explain this well enough but the spray will reach there noses and mouthes even if it amebas acrossed its yard, this will make it stop barking.

If you know that there is a dog presesnt then why bother it unless you know that there is no way you can get passed it without it making an alarm, even if it does see you if you react fast enough you can hit it with the spray before it can do anything. its pointless to try and put somthing in its water or whatever if you can get it to not bark in the first place by not going near it go in the opposite side of where it is.

honestly

Well go give it a field test and tell me how it pans out.

already have and its worked numerous times.

sorry, Thats probably why Ive been so hard pressed on it. I suppose other methods would work too but Ive found that the mase is the way to go for me.

I have the chloroform recipe, It's very easy and cheap to make, if anyone wants it.